nitrogen valve

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Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Messages
798
Location
Bellingham, WA
I'm having my suspension revalved tomorrow by the local WP specialist, he asked me if it was OK to replace the stock nitrogen valve with a shreider valve. I had an issue with my '02 chain hitting the valve and grinding (slowly) away at the valve cap.
Anyone else have this issue? Anyone else have a Shreider Valve on the shock?
 
that's why most don't do it. you'll find that your WP dealer hasn't bought all the correct tackle.... it costs a lot of money for the correct recharging kit.

we have a new zealander comes on here reckons he has tried many schraeders and the ones he sells are the best. you'll find he went on the really long enduro suspension thread at the beginning.

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: nitrogen valve

Taffy said:
that's why most don't do it. you'll find that your WP dealer hasn't bought all the correct tackle.... it costs a lot of money for the correct recharging kit.

we have a new zealander comes on here reckons he has tried many schraeders and the ones he sells are the best. you'll find he went on the really long enduro suspension thread at the beginning.

regards

Taffy
I was hoping to use the stock hardware. He just broke the tool and won't have new parts before the weekend. He uses the shraeder valves on KTM w/o problem. He wil install a short stem and see how it works. The tuner is a WP suspension dude and team manager of a KTM WORCS team, he works very closely with the WP facotry tuners. I was pleased to find out that this guy doesn't believe in replacing the stock goods with aftermarket valves and bladders and other such trendy parts, I simply get modified shim stacks. I'll post results after this weekend.
 
No problems with the valve getting hit by the chain. The revalve seems to be really good in 95% of the situations, I am still working at getting the last 5% out of it, may try softer springs (I'm 175 to 180 lbs) to see if I can keep the rear end loose without kicking.
 
HI the new zealander here i have my own valves made from a stainless 5mm cap screw i do this because they are small and easily fitted to the bottom of shocks that are not desinged to be rebuilt my 470 is running one and is about the same size as the wp screw i wont say they are better than anything else but are easy to use in tight places. if a bike has another type of valve fitted (schraeder) i dont take it out and fit one of my own
 
TM

you've probably given out your name but i haven't listed it.

i can't imagine you need a lighter spring - no way!

i'm about to write ab bit about straight rate on the enduro thread and will post a Q on ktalk about....

regards

Taffy
 
I'm struggling with the balance of small bump absorption, yet having control in whoops. It is currently really pretty good in the whoops and flies straight, it takes blunt hits (like a 12" vertical wall) and square edge bumps well, but it starts to dance and get busy in rooty rocky long sections (1 to 6" high slick stuff) and kicks / hops occasionally on when slamming rear wheel first into a 6 to 12" high log crossing or hitting loose boulders with the front end lofted. OK, I'm know I'm being picky, but..........
 
mmmmm?

it might be that it's too soft a spring and that it goes to far into it's travel for even the slightest bump, this means that on the second and third bump the shock is still under the seat compressed and not back doing it's job - absorbing the next one.

the other possibility is that you have too little compression causing the same thing or rebound is wrong.

you know i've found the suspension to be real ABC stuff until it comes to the rebound on the rear shock.... wara *****! i used to have a little so it didn't launch me whilst sat down going over a mound. bussshhhh and i'd go flying so i wound it up. then i started standing more and found that i was doing a series of bumps followed by a corner. trouble is i was riding a monowheel bike and getting in trouble.... so i softened it right off and never sit anymore at these important moments (the mound as you crest the rise going fast and busssshhhh again!).

i hope this is of some help.

if you didn't know, i've upgraded the doc and the rear suspension part over the last week. please have a look at it.

i'm possibly totally wrong but by reading it you may glimpse something that makes you go: "that's it!!!".

not being funny but when you bought the bike i said to myself "he's got standard untried suspension, all the good bits taken off, jetting will be ball-park as well".

regards

Taffy
 
taffy
I knew the suspension was stock, the 50mm all aluminums are not for sale, and are extremely expensive to maintain (alum parts require constant replacement due to wear and fatigue). I thought about getting the sxs parts, or Ohlins, or even Showa, but they are all so much $$$$. I think it is impossible to get the rebound perfect, stream bed cobbles and whoops and kickers are just too far apart in settings. I need to spend some time testing shock preload and rebound settings. I am running very little preload on the shock to get my 4 inch sag, and I suspect that my rebound setting for whoops is "packing" the shock at the top of stroke due to lack of spring pressure to extend the shock all the way. I like PDS in principle, but I have yet to ride a PDS bike that worked to my total satisfaction. Setting up 125s is so much easier!
BTW, the rest of the bike is as Bjorne rode it. And thanks for the help.
 
an 80kg spring for someone weighing just a stone less than me? would be nice to try a PDS4 if you could get your hands on one. that starts as an 85 and finishes as a 110. or try a 85kg straight. mark had some stuff for sale? (FC550).

agree about the costs and i think you agreed with me about the spring being stuck 'up'.

good luck either way. are you down for moab?

regards

Taffy
 
taff
I will not likely make Moab. Regretefully, I missed the BOSS invite due to a familiy vacation, and I will likely miss Moab due to another trip, but we'll see.
I will check with my local tuner and see what springs he has lying around that I can try. I often have troubles setting up bikes for my size and style of riding, I weigh 175 lbs and tend to stand up a lot, that results in needing a bit more spring in front to prevent excessive diving, and a softer rear end to keep it hooked up. When set up properly for me and I loan a bike out to a 200 pounder (especially a sit down rider), the bike looks like a chopper. A good compensation measure for me has been to preload both ends more than usual to keep the bike level.
 

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