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berger
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- Joined
- Apr 11, 2002
- Messages
- 3,152
- Location
- Phoenix Arizona
Welcome Tim,
The 98's tend to be good bikes. There is probably nothing out of the ordinary to check for. Just the usual stuff, does it look well maintaned etc..
Keep in mind that like any 8 year old racing 4 stroke it will probably need some TLC.
Please feel free to post any questions you might have later.
The 98's tend to be good bikes. There is probably nothing out of the ordinary to check for. Just the usual stuff, does it look well maintaned etc..
Keep in mind that like any 8 year old racing 4 stroke it will probably need some TLC.
Please feel free to post any questions you might have later.
Keep an ear out for the starter sprag locking engaged. Easiest way to tell is the motor very sluggish to kick and you can hear the starter spin when you do. If the rest looks good it may not be a showstopper, but you have to split the engine cases to get it out on those models. If it is stuck you can remove the starter countershaft under a 3 bolt plate on the RHS and use the motor on the kick only for as long as you like.
Rattle the starter up & down in the bore where it goes into the engine to chech for wear. The front tyre chucks sand in there & the engine vibes cause the starter to get worn in the engine. Again, relatively easily fixed with a Speedy-Sleeve.
Also check for crook plastics. The flouro '98 tends to fade, but they are getting hard to get new ones.
If it is hard to start it may indicate a stator on the way out. If it is hard to start, pull the spark plug out & check for good spark at slow to medium kickstart speeds. Hard to start may also just be carby adjustment.
Rattle the starter up & down in the bore where it goes into the engine to chech for wear. The front tyre chucks sand in there & the engine vibes cause the starter to get worn in the engine. Again, relatively easily fixed with a Speedy-Sleeve.
Also check for crook plastics. The flouro '98 tends to fade, but they are getting hard to get new ones.
If it is hard to start it may indicate a stator on the way out. If it is hard to start, pull the spark plug out & check for good spark at slow to medium kickstart speeds. Hard to start may also just be carby adjustment.
Thanks, I'll be on the lookout for these things. As long as the seller is on the up and up with what he told me, the bike should be in great shape. it has a claimed 1000 miles, so I can't imagine there's too much mechanical wear. Maintenance is said to have been religiously performed.
It has 17" spoked wheels on the original hubs. Does anyone know of a good 320mm disk upgrade around the net for this bike? I'll be doing a lot of street riding, and probably to the supermoto track at least once a month, so I'd like the extra stopping power. I'm also in the market for some used hubs, to rebuild the dirt wheels that are included, sans hubs. Thanks again,
Tim
It has 17" spoked wheels on the original hubs. Does anyone know of a good 320mm disk upgrade around the net for this bike? I'll be doing a lot of street riding, and probably to the supermoto track at least once a month, so I'd like the extra stopping power. I'm also in the market for some used hubs, to rebuild the dirt wheels that are included, sans hubs. Thanks again,
Tim
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,029
- Location
- Ely, England
they are all over the show here. don't be afraid, thewy all spewak english and remember that cash talks ok?
ebay europe
fill yer wellies!
regards
Taffy
ebay europe
fill yer wellies!
regards
Taffy
Be sure it is an FE501E with electric start and not a FE501. The e-start ones have a counterbalancer shaft that the others don't - and it can't be fitted afterwards. The balancer makes the engine smoooooth on the road! If you particularly don't want the electric start you can remove the starter and put a 30mm welch plug in its place but I think the counterbalanced electric start motor is still the way to go.
If the electric start is a bit sluggish there are a couple of things you can do to make it better. A better rated YTZ12 or YTZ14 (if you can get one) battery fits straight into the battery box. Also the automatic decompressor on the camshaft may need a tinker.
Be aware that particularly bad comments about e-starters on Husabergs apply to the 2001 to about 2004 models. The pre 2001 models had a much bigger starter mounted across the front of the motor that drives onto the countershaft. This can generally be got to work OK.
If the electric start is a bit sluggish there are a couple of things you can do to make it better. A better rated YTZ12 or YTZ14 (if you can get one) battery fits straight into the battery box. Also the automatic decompressor on the camshaft may need a tinker.
Be aware that particularly bad comments about e-starters on Husabergs apply to the 2001 to about 2004 models. The pre 2001 models had a much bigger starter mounted across the front of the motor that drives onto the countershaft. This can generally be got to work OK.
This is the bike. It is electric start, and I think I'll be keeping it that way, unless something drastic happens. It was warm today here, and I'm having trouble waiting for this thing. All the guys at work were out with their bikes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWA%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWA%3AIT
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Looks tidier than mine. Should be a top bike. I'd be makin' wood over it too. 
You can go to 16 teeth on the front sprocket to drop the engine revs or go faster on the road. Sprockets are the same as 2 stroke Husky. At a pinch you can shoehorn a 17 tooth 4 stroke husky sprocket but you gotta cut up the swingarm chain protector and make a spacer washer. With 42 on the back you probably wouldn't want to go that high anyway.
Be aware that the speedometer will read high if the standard one is still fitted due to the smaller front wheel diameter. I did a conversion table if you need it.
The front wheel spoke pattern is different on the older bikes to the newer ones but back pattern is the same. I think the front pattern changed in about 2000? There is a thread that mentions it. If you get hubs from a later model, the original 21" dirt rim might not fit too well.
The original rear wheel hub does not have a rubber cushion drive in it either. These tend to make life easier on the gears on grippy road surfaces.
It may be easier to get a pair of complete wheels off another model with big brakes on the front & cush-drive on the rear and put the original wheels back together? As far as I can tell the '98 never came out with OEM motard wheels. Re-lacing the wheels is fairly straight foreward.
I made an adapter to suit the original front brake caliper on the larger disc and it works well. If you really want to stop hard others talk of 4 piston Berringer brakes or bigger, but then the swapover from dirt to road won't be as straight forward.
You can go to 16 teeth on the front sprocket to drop the engine revs or go faster on the road. Sprockets are the same as 2 stroke Husky. At a pinch you can shoehorn a 17 tooth 4 stroke husky sprocket but you gotta cut up the swingarm chain protector and make a spacer washer. With 42 on the back you probably wouldn't want to go that high anyway.
Be aware that the speedometer will read high if the standard one is still fitted due to the smaller front wheel diameter. I did a conversion table if you need it.
The front wheel spoke pattern is different on the older bikes to the newer ones but back pattern is the same. I think the front pattern changed in about 2000? There is a thread that mentions it. If you get hubs from a later model, the original 21" dirt rim might not fit too well.
The original rear wheel hub does not have a rubber cushion drive in it either. These tend to make life easier on the gears on grippy road surfaces.
It may be easier to get a pair of complete wheels off another model with big brakes on the front & cush-drive on the rear and put the original wheels back together? As far as I can tell the '98 never came out with OEM motard wheels. Re-lacing the wheels is fairly straight foreward.
I made an adapter to suit the original front brake caliper on the larger disc and it works well. If you really want to stop hard others talk of 4 piston Berringer brakes or bigger, but then the swapover from dirt to road won't be as straight forward.
Got the bike this weekend. Messed around on my parent's side road, This thing is awesomely powerful. I love the ability to loft the wheel with a roll of the throttle. I was riding my dad's dr650 with street tires on the original rims, and the berg is a wholly different animal.
I can't wait to get it registered later this week and see what it will do on the open road.
I can't wait to get it registered later this week and see what it will do on the open road.
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