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OldNewbie

Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
216
Location
Anderson, Indiana, USA
Hello everyone, my name is Rob and I just bought the 2007 FE 650 many of you have probably seen on line. I won't get it for about a month, so I have time to get some gear, spare parts, jets, and whatever else you guys tell me I need.

So don't hold back.

This bike has 15 miles on it. Which means the oil has been sitting in that crankcase for 3+ years. Obviously, it needs changed. Question: do these come with "break-in oil"? If so, that's what I'd like to use for break in.

What else should be greased after sitting unused for so long?

Should I go ahead and order a jet kit now?

I weigh 225 dry. Where do I get new suspension springs?

I am a charter life member of the AMA. I started riding when I was 12, and the last bike I had was a Harley Low Rider which I sold shortly after my daughter was born. She's 26 now. The Harley was fun to own, but I never enjoyed road riding. I was always taking it down the back roads and dirt roads, craving those trails, the woods, the railroad tracks, old quarry, and other out of the way places. I've wanted a bike like this for about 26 years, and it was about time I let myself have it!
 
Lets see....First congratulation's and welcome.
Breakin oil. I would recommend a petroleum based oil for the first few oil changes. Favorites seem to be Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella. After that perhaps Motrex 10/50 or 15/50 .
Why not grease everything just to be sure.
Yes get the jet kit coming. Taffy sells a good one.
http://www.taffmeisters.co.uk/tuning-parts.pdf

Springs I would say yes. 8.8 rear and .48 front works for me (230lb. trail rider).
 
Get used to kickstarting it, or spend a motza and a lot of time fixing the poor electric starting. Get a fan kit for it, they boil at the drop of a hat. Grow some large balls, these things will send you sailing through the air with an accidental blip of the throttle or lift the front wheel in all gears.

Read the owners doc on this site. Its saved me more than once.

That being said you still couldn't pry my Berger out of my cold dead hands. :cheers:
 
Thanks for the advice, guys. This is going to be a long month waiting to get it.

Once I do, I'll strip it down, grease everything, change fluids, make sure the tank and carb aren't gummed up, jet the carb, and maybe change springs.

I will take my time to get used to the machine and make sure I have no old bad habits that will cause trouble with all that power on tap.

Once I feel grooved in, I'm going to find some races.
 
I would maybe get some spare bearings or repack them with grease.(swing arm and wheel) Mine was 3 years old and new when I got it and thats the only thing that wasn't crash related. 4442 miles as of today and only getting better.
 
Well, I finally got her home and am making great progress. I have some questions.

1 – having a little trouble with fasteners. Are these a metric hex? I’m still trying to figure out what fits them.

2 – does your front fender rub the frame?

3 – I bought radiator guards and steel support rods that replace the flexible plastic stock ones. I’ve installed them but I don’t know if I like the steel rods. The plastic ones were designed to give the system flex, the radiator may take damage in the event of a hard hit, but everything else returns to position. With the steel rods, if the gas tank and /or side panel take a hit, they’re more likely to be ripped loose since the support is rigid, and also, the tabs on the frame that the steel rods connect to will be bent. And the radiator will probably still get damaged. Anyone know of case histories where steel supports would have helped or where using them made the damage worse?
 
OldNewbie said:
Well, I finally got her home and am making great progress. I have some questions.

1 – having a little trouble with fasteners. Are these a metric hex? I’m still trying to figure out what fits them.

2 – does your front fender rub the frame?

3 – I bought radiator guards and steel support rods that replace the flexible plastic stock ones. I’ve installed them but I don’t know if I like the steel rods. The plastic ones were designed to give the system flex, the radiator may take damage in the event of a hard hit, but everything else returns to position. With the steel rods, if the gas tank and /or side panel take a hit, they’re more likely to be ripped loose since the support is rigid, and also, the tabs on the frame that the steel rods connect to will be bent. And the radiator will probably still get damaged. Anyone know of case histories where steel supports would have helped or where using them made the damage worse?
Click to expand...

1. fasteneres are almost impossible to find without the dealer many of them have little spacers and such but not all of them.

2. yes my fneder did rub my frame when i got mine go buy a couple of rubber washers and put them on the rear set of fender bolts for a little extra space. I have 1/4" of clearance now

3. will be a good question for someone else

Good luck and enjoy your bike
 
I think the answer to q1 is.... yes, metric hex. some 6mm heads on shrouds. lots of 8mm heads (6x1mm threads). and some 13mm heads (8x1.25mm threads). there is a crowd on New Zealands Trade Me that sell a kit of KTM/Husaberg fasteners (with stepped bolts, body bolts, washers etc) for NZ$99. These kits are imported so must be available on freebay too.
 
Fasteners / radiator

Yup, thanks, they are metric hex. I think someone used red locktite on the oil filter cover screws, they took some persuading to get loose.

Do the radiators come with holes in the right side? This one looks like it had a fan installed.

It also had stiffer springs already in, too. I'm thinking this bike was set up for someone, they scared theirself, and took it back to the dealer.

That's easy to understand. It's a lot of machine. I've only ridden maybe half an hour, and I'm wondering what I was thinking. It will take some getting used to.
 
the best way of getting the 'fender' off the frame is to use a heat gun and a 1/2" block of wood. heat up the guard just behind, below and inside the wheelarch (so to speak) and wedge the wood twixt frame and guard. when it cools it will be in the new shape.

those rods aren't a problem infront of the rad. stick with them, they are better IMHO than the later ones. suggest that you drill a small hole in from the front into the rods and screw in a self-tapper so that the rods never come with the end panel screws when you remove stuff.....

regards

Taffy
 
i am also a new berg owner..new to me anyway.Bergs are rare in Canada and ones that are street legal are almost impossible to find.I toured the country looking at bikes for 6 months..I found a 03 fe 400 that was plated and in mint condition and a 05 650 that was a track bike but still had the proper paperwork to be plated.In my province,Ontario, once a moyorcycle is registered as off-road your screwed...off-road for ever...and you still have to licence and insure it for trail ridin....anyway
The 650 was battered but not dead..started first kick,racing slicks,arko pipe..test ride time...
..im no rookie but holy...wheelies pretty much when ever you want.3rd..4th.60..70mph.crazy fast...magic brakes almost pitched myself over the handlebars stoppin in front of my buds...
being of advanced years and feeble minded,I decided on the 400.its plenty fast for me..
already tore my hamstring on some wet oily railroad ties..point of the story...mind young ..body old..
be carefull out there and have fun
looking for supermoto rims and tires..and maybe some safety gear..lol
peace
 
Plating the bike for street in British Columbia is easy. Brand new 570 09. Put a street kit on it and plated it. On the the road! If you get pulled over however, depending on the cop,an inspection might be required which means legal dot tires, signal light spacing etc.
 
Jetting

First round went 38 to 48 on pilot jet, second round took it up to 50. Now were getting somewhere! While opening the mixture adjustment, all of a sudden the engine revved way up, so I backed off the idle and all is good now. Mixture adj is out 4 full turns now, however, so I should go up to a 52 or 54 maybe, but I’m not looking forward to pulling that carb again.

Before:

Hard starting, after 3 or 4 long cranking attempts, I would always jump it instead of running the battery totally flat.

With choke on, idle ran very high (because idle adjust was set so high)

Throttle response off idle was violent and unpredictable. Think about it – the idle stop was cranked way up just to get the bike to idle, so the slide is way up, sucking lots of air and barely enough gas to idle. Then you crack the throttle, which gives it even more air, plus a shot of gas from the accelerator pump, and all of a sudden it has a mixture it likes, and you’ve got 10 instantaneous horsepower from just cracking the throttle open.

Idle speed would creep up, and of course I wouldn’t notice that until into a rough downhill section, wanting to plonk through. Clutch and brakes are then the only choice.

Lots of popping and backfiring when throttle was closed

After:

Starting is very quick and battery-friendly
Idle while choked is slightly above normal
Choke can be taken off soon after starting
Idle is smooth and doesn’t vary in speed
Popping and backfiring are gone
Throttle response is smooth, predictable, and immensely, tremendously useful!
 
Other mods

Gearing

Dropped to a 13 on the front, so now I’m at 13 / 45 and this works great. Bike was 15 / 45 stock and I didn’t like that at all, especially with jetting problems, made the bike almost unrideable. Now it’s great in the woods, I seem to have a gear for every occasion and plenty of torque to fill in the gaps.

Fan

Ordered the stock Husaberg kit, everything fit perfectly and connected into existing harness. Picked up the Beemer 95 / 100 C thermal switch. With the radiator full, I boil over a few ounces of fluid, which puts the level down to just over the top of the tubes, and from there the fan keeps it from losing any more. Perfect, just enough fan when needed, and won’t run the battery down.
 
Bumped the pilot jet up to 54, and still I had the low speed adjustment out 3 1/2 to 4 turns. Apparently changing pilot jet is not changing anything.

Carb is off, will clean pilot circuit and go back to the 48 jet, and hope that hits it close enough so that the low speed adjustment is in a normal range.
 
General update: got 3 races under my belt now, and am learning quickly! I have the suspension about half tweaked in - went softer and softer till it felt right. Also removed a link and shortened the wheelbase a little bit because I just couldn't make corners in tight woods.

I'm not sure what made the difference, but now the bike handles great in the woods and is like a different machine. I'm not sure whether to go another link shorter or not, I like it so well the way it is.

Now I need to add a lot of rebound, whoops kick back too much on front and rear.

Jetting is good; gas gushing problem is solved. It had to have been the spring / plunger inside the float valve. That's the only thing that could change. If the float were waterlogged (gasologged?) or set too low, it would not cure itself when the bike cooled.
 

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