New FS570 owner with questions

bwhip · Dec 18, 2011

Just picked up my new 2011 FS570 yesterday. Very excited! :bounce:

Been reviewing the forums a bit, and have some questions:

1. Will a larger tire fit on the rear, or do I need to stick with the 150/60?

2. I've seen a few people mention the DNA air filter as a highly recommended mod. Where can I get one? I went to the DNA site, but they only listed older models.

3. I saw something about the seat needing to be cut for the airbox mod. What does this entail?

4. I want to get the most out of the motor as a street hooligan bike and occasional trackday toy, but don't want to hurt reliability. If I add pipe and air filter mod, is remapping required and/or difficult?

5. What's involved with derestriction, and when should it be done?

6. What would be involved in making it convertible to a dirt bike with knobbies?

7. Recommended alternative rear sprocket size to get a little more low end response without killing top end?

Thanks for your help!

pedroFS · Dec 18, 2011

1. Will a larger tire fit on the rear, or do I need to stick with the 150/60?
- yes, but get a 5" rim for the back.

2. I've seen a few people mention the DNA air filter as a highly recommended mod. Where can I get one? I went to the DNA site, but they only listed older models. -
- yes, bergos.de or any dna supplier

3. I saw something about the seat needing to be cut for the airbox mod. What does this entail?
- take off seat, where the side fairings overlap the fuel tank at the front, cut that bit out.

4. I want to get the most out of the motor as a street hooligan bike and occasional trackday toy, but don't want to hurt reliability. If I add pipe and air filter mod, is remapping required and/or difficult?
- nup, ride it like you stole it

5. What's involved with derestriction, and when should it be done?
- derestricion of what?

6. What would be involved in making it convertible to a dirt bike with knobbies?
- get some 17" nobbles or suck it up like a man and ride on road tires in the dirt. chicks dig it. 21" front wheel won't fit as the brake caliper will hit spokes.

7. Recommended alternative rear sprocket size to get a little more low end response without killing top end?
- 14/45 good for 200kph+

also, change your clamps to 14mm offset - it's in the book.

willlem · Dec 18, 2011

ok two things to add.
I, def recommend mapping change when full pipe n race filter, either try acrapovic competition map or manual with testbank
2 , 14/45 will give u 150 tops -
3 derestricion nothing special to do, make sure to set it on agressive and remove the original exhaust inner pipe, i might be forgetting stuff here though

bwhip · Dec 19, 2011

Good stuff, thanks very much!

ratman1 · Jan 6, 2012

yo pedro your fs570 run 200 plus kph??? i have a 011 fs570, i have the map switch, ackro header and muffler, the comp ecu setting after unlocking the ecu for the user setting tool which i was told would let the engine rev 1000rpms higher. im trying to get my hands on a dna filter right now. but my bike tops out at 160kph...rm

michie · Jan 6, 2012

It's probably just another gearing :wink:

bwhip · Feb 7, 2012

Anything I can do to keep the rear brake from howling so much? It's pretty loud. I thought it would just go away after repeated use, but it continues.

newf · Feb 7, 2012

Change out the pads?
Mine has more of a shrill sound that usually goes away after a good ride. In town, it pretty well always has a shrill sound in traffic, it probably sounds a lot worse to anyone not wearing a helmet and earplugs!
Have you had any issues with your front brake?
Jim

maKe · Feb 8, 2012

Do you really want to get the bike to perform decently for track days or racing? If so, be prepared to spend quite some.
You basically bought a enduro bike with enduro motor that just has 17"'s and big brakes... so treat the bike like enduro at it's current state and focus on improving parts that are most critical.

Must-do basic mods:

- Suspension revalving. Forks and shock needs to be shortened so the bike sits lower and it's focused to run more on the rear tire. Completely new valvings etc.

- 5" rear, or if you get serious add 16.5" front. Eliminates 90% front end chatter and turns in better.

- Motor is really weak in stock trim. Minimum mods: Slip-on, dna filter, cut shrouds/seat hole (mapping needed with hole), +4-6 rear sprocket. For serious and expensive motor you need to make the bike BREATH alot more. Stock throttle body limits close to 10hp and lacks top end grunt. Ignition timing is also too mild.

- The bike is so damn wide that it's hard to grip the side of it with your legs when leaning over and stock seat is really high. I got the lowered seat and that helped alot along with lower sitting bike after suspension was done.

Advanced / big $$$ mods:

- Swingarm is a big compromise when the bike gets around 20hp more power and is raced on track. It's too short and with real rubber on 16.5" front / 5" rear wheels it will turn in way too quickly and is hard to keep a controlled line in mid corner. Also the bike will just wheelie everywhere. Devtech swingarm or modded SMR swignarm is going to be must if wanna go fast.

- Slipper clutch... 'nuff said. Should come stock with one. :mrgreen:

bwhip · Feb 8, 2012

newf said:
Change out the pads?
Mine has more of a shrill sound that usually goes away after a good ride. In town, it pretty well always has a shrill sound in traffic, it probably sounds a lot worse to anyone not wearing a helmet and earplugs!
Have you had any issues with your front brake?
Jim

No issues with front brake, seems to work quite well - and quietly.

bwhip · Feb 8, 2012

maKe said:
Do you really want to get the bike to perform decently for track days or racing? If so, be prepared to spend quite some.
You basically bought a enduro bike with enduro motor that just has 17"'s and big brakes... so treat the bike like enduro at it's current state and focus on improving parts that are most critical.

Must-do basic mods:

- Suspension revalving. Forks and shock needs to be shortened so the bike sits lower and it's focused to run more on the rear tire. Completely new valvings etc.

- 5" rear, or if you get serious add 16.5" front. Eliminates 90% front end chatter and turns in better.

- Motor is really weak in stock trim. Minimum mods: Slip-on, dna filter, cut shrouds/seat hole (mapping needed with hole), +4-6 rear sprocket. For serious and expensive motor you need to make the bike BREATH alot more. Stock throttle body limits close to 10hp and lacks top end grunt. Ignition timing is also too mild.

- The bike is so damn wide that it's hard to grip the side of it with your legs when leaning over and stock seat is really high. I got the lowered seat and that helped alot along with lower sitting bike after suspension was done.

Advanced / big $$$ mods:

- Swingarm is a big compromise when the bike gets around 20hp more power and is raced on track. It's too short and with real rubber on 16.5" front / 5" rear wheels it will turn in way too quickly and is hard to keep a controlled line in mid corner. Also the bike will just wheelie everywhere. Devtech swingarm or modded SMR swignarm is going to be must if wanna go fast.

- Slipper clutch... 'nuff said. Should come stock with one. :mrgreen:

Thanks - good info!

Not sure how much $$$ I want to spend, but we'll see. It's pretty bloody good in its current form, although the true test will be when I get it out on track.

So far I've added the Akrapovic slip-on, a 43T rear sprocket, hand guards, new chain, and DNA air filter. I also drilled some holes in the body work around the airbox to give it a little better ability to breathe.

A slipper would really help for sure. At the moment I've really been working on improving my blipping technique during downshifts.

Once I get it out on track (when the weather improves), I'll be able to more accurately gauge whether I want to mod suspension, brakes, etc.

maKe · Feb 8, 2012

I just took angle grinder and cutted the whole shroud off and more near the gas cap where the plastic starts to curve. Those holes won't help alot, you can still hear the airbox chuffing and even worse with dna filter.

Brakes are actually ok and the bike stops with the full Magura setup. It's just the feeling I don't like in them. 90% because of the 12mm master cylinder and stainless braking rotor. Beringer, FTE or Brembo master and cast beringer rotor is nice improvement.

Suspension is a must trust me... even a amateur like me noticed it immediately. Revalving is not that expensive, around 300-500€ here where I live.

Don't blip the throttle on downshifts. clutchless downshifts is the way to go. I had hard time to believe that but I rode on track with friend who told to try it. Slides were much more controlled and could turn in harder. Not the easiest to master without slipper but feels awesome when you get it.

ratman1 · Jun 25, 2012

update,,, i live at 6000ft elevation so my bike will only go 160kph, i took it to the beach a month ago and it pulled 195 with the stock gearing, dna filter, ful ackro system, remap comp program, 5.5 rear wheel with 165 bridgestone slick, i shredded my rear tire in dys at the beach power wheelies in forth gear man was it a beat...i will need a turbo to make it run like that a 6000ft.lol i just changed gearing to 14/44 now it will reline in 6th. rm

Electrified · Jun 26, 2012

Very nice bike. :cheers:

LukasM · Aug 16, 2012

maKe said:
- Swingarm is a big compromise when the bike gets around 20hp more power and is raced on track. It's too short and with real rubber on 16.5" front / 5" rear wheels it will turn in way too quickly and is hard to keep a controlled line in mid corner. Also the bike will just wheelie everywhere. Devtech swingarm or modded SMR swignarm is going to be must if wanna go fast.

Can you explain that one a bit? I am almost sure that both the Devtech and SMR swingarms are shorter to help with turn in and agility, so it would create the exact opposite result you want, wouldn't it?

JQX · Mar 17, 2013

I've heard that this bike needs an aftermarket fuel filter to prevent problems with FI. I found this Husaberg part: 78107990000 (Fuel Cap Filter). Anyone recommending this?

GregUK · Mar 17, 2013

If your bike has both halves of the QD in plastic, there is a factory modification to instal a filter where the rubber fuel line meets the injector.

There is also a later version of the in-tank line filter. Whilst you're doing that, replace the pump filter too.

New FS570 owner with questions

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