New 570

Hi guys

I have ordered a new 2011 fe 570, only accessory it comes with is a bash plate apparently.
Any recommendations for extra parts + is there any problems I should fix before I start - ie - I read that the cam chain tensioner can cause problems but replacing it with a dirt tricks one fixed the prob.
also if anyone knows any mods to make the bike better and are they worth it?
Thanks for any info

Newport

Take the rear Number Plate holder and Rear Blinkers off they will break.
Check the Battery terminals are tight.

First up add the following:
Fan Kit
Bark Busters
Heat shield around the exhaust near your right boot

Second up:
Plenty of bling
DaleEO's Subframe Tank
DaleEO's Rear Disk gaurd
DaleEO's Chain Gaurd

Third up:
Some form of Map Switch. Don't buy the Husaberg Map Switch it is crap.
Buy the Pro Filter Fuel Filter and install it.

You will love this bike. And watch the grin on your mates faces when they have a go.
Leave the front and rear sprockets as they are they are perfect.

Get ready to buy a rear tyre not long after the first couple of rides, the thing has so much power the tyre wont last.

Change the oil and filter as per the manual. Use Motorex Oil it is too expensive but does the job.

Buy the blue thing that sits in the Air Cleaner spot for when you wash the bike.

Wash and oil the Air Filter a lot.

I can't believe I am saying this, but pay someone to set the sag and suspension. Makes a big difference. Can't believe I have been riding mine for months without doing that. DaleEO told me months ago to do it.

Neutral is hard to find is the only problem you will have with this bike.

Try to turn an blind eye to anyone that tells you that you should have brought the 390 :lol:

Thanks mate, plenty of advice there - I've heard the husey map switch doesn't make much diff, can you recommend any better brands?

Cheers
Newport

The factory modified the cam-chain tensioner for the 2010 bikes. It shouldn't now be a problem.

My 2011 bike did NOT come with any bash plate - something made from 4mm alloy would be essential. I used the factory sump-guard.

A fan kit is IMHO a pretty good investment. You may not get much use out of it, but it may save a cooked engine.

Get the right rear spring for your weight. Set the sags and, in particular, the rebound damping to suit the spring you're using.

The clutch slave cylinder saver isn't too much money, nor are frame guards. You'll need some hand-guards too.

New bikes are filled with running-in oil. Change oil & filter after an hour's running. I've also bought Motorex fully-synth as per the factory recommendation.

A Scotts steering damper isn't cheap but makes a big difference. The KTM damper doesn't look too clever.

Think about bar-risers, Pivot Pegz etc.

I've binned the standard number-plate mount and shifted the winkers up to the optional high position mounting - you'll need to redrill some holes in the marked positions. The rear winkers only break if you fall off! ;-)

Greg

Newport said:

Thanks mate, plenty of advice there - I've heard the husey map switch doesn't make much diff, can you recommend any better brands?

Cheers
Newport

Click to expand...

You can use the Husaberg tool to reset the mapping to whatever you want but it looks far too complex for the inexperienced user like me. I've stuck the factory switch on which gives you three OE settings. If the switch fails, simply unplug and the bike will revert to the standard setting.

Greg

Davo said:

I can't believe I am saying this, but pay someone to set the sag and suspension. Makes a big difference. Can't believe I have been riding mine for months without doing that. DaleEO told me months ago to do it.

Click to expand...

Set the sag for yourself, by yourself. Other than for simple spring changes, you may need to 'pay someone' to modify the suspension damping.

Chas said:

Davo said:

I can't believe I am saying this, but pay someone to set the sag and suspension. Makes a big difference. Can't believe I have been riding mine for months without doing that. DaleEO told me months ago to do it.

Click to expand...

Set the sag for yourself, by yourself. Other than for simple spring changes, you may need to 'pay someone' to modify the suspension damping.

Click to expand...

On the rear, the important steps are:

• Sag - you will possibly need to change springs to get this right. The bike's manual and your bathroom scales are a good starting point. Unfortunately, you cannot easily adjust the pre-load (and therefore the sag) without taking the unit off the bike.[/*:m:1esqhwkf]
• Rebound damping - the objective is to control the spring as it uncompresses. Standard is 22 clicks out. Notch up a couple of clicks for a firmer spring; a couple of clicks softer for a softer spring. This is a simple screwdriver adjustment at the bottom of the damping unit.[/*:m:1esqhwkf]

Greg

All good,
I'm getting spring upgrades as i'm around 105 at the mo, frame guards are definate. Should I get radiator guards or are they just a waste of money? I'll get the fan kit for sure as it gets pretty hot in Aussie summers

Cheers all

Yeah I forgot the radiator guards, good investment. DaleEO sells a good looking set.

Newport said:

All good,
Should I get radiator guards or are they just a waste of money?

Cheers all

Click to expand...

Depends what sort of riding you do?Where and who you ride with IMO,If your getting rock roosted then definitely yes. If you are just doing weekend trails no need just put the money into suspension springs and valves mate.

jof062 said:

Depends what sort of riding you do?Where and who you ride with IMO,If your getting rock roosted then definitely yes. If you are just doing weekend trails no need just put the money into suspension springs and valves mate.

Click to expand...

Also depends on what sort of guards you're talking about, as a guard means different things to different people. Sounds like you're talking about a grille which fits in front of the rads to stop flying stones hitting them, in which case I agree with what you said - probably not needed unless you're expecting to get roosted a lot with rocks.

However I'd always suggest fitting what you might call a "brace", i.e. a frame which fits around the rads to protect them from getting bent on impact if you run into something solid or drop the bike. Won't help in a really major impact but should do for minor spills.

Raidators are a consumable aren't they ? Postiviely get the profill filler neck filter for your tank straight off the bat. Check the routing of the wiring harness and seal all the electrical connectors with di-electric grease.

If you are 6 ft or taller you will def. need bar risers, the lower shock mount cover is a good investment had to change the bearing at 60 hrs (I ride in mud and water a lot) at a cost of about 90 bucks.

Make sure the thermostat housing is not rubbing on the radiator core.

You can upgrade the headlight globe with a H4 unit for improved night vision.

Check the fuel tank vent for a non return valve and remove.

Keep the services up to it, search some oil related threads for a couple of opinions :twisted:

berglsmerg said:

You can upgrade the headlight globe with a H4 unit for improved night vision.

Click to expand...

Can you tell us more about this, same or higher watts, plug and play with existing connectors or not, risk of headlight plastic melting etc.

Thanks in advance
Fizz

yeah dude right here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12783&p=110402#p110402

petem said:

However I'd always suggest fitting what you might call a "brace", i.e. a frame which fits around the rads to protect them from getting bent on impact if you run into something solid or drop the bike. Won't help in a really major impact but should do for minor spills.

Click to expand...

Agreed. I am going with the Enduro Eng. braces which use the stock plastic guards. I don't get roost and I rarely get sticks into the rads or anything like that, but I do fall down from time to time and I have already slightly tweaked the mounting tabs on the right radiator. In my situation I am mostly likely to drop the bike and squish a rad at which point I would probably have to buy a new rad. Sometimes a simple hole poked in a rad can be fixed but a severely squashed rad needs to be replaced.