My 501 is f*cked

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Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
16
Little background - My wife recently picked up a '97 FE501 for me and the while I love the bike it has been nothing but a PITA since day 1.

The first day I took it out I started having problems.
She would start right up but after running for a min if I shut it off I would have to let it sit and cool down for 1-15min to get it started again.
The clutch never fully disengages so to get it will not go in N with out shutting off.

Then it wouldn't start up at all. (started this thread about it - viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15380)

I replaced the plug, took the carb apart and thoroughly cleaned it, checked the valves (no adjustment needed), cleaned/oiled the filter, changed the oil.
After that she started up but was still having the ward start issue.
2 rides later it started back firing very bad and then then stalled leaving me stuck a few miles out in the middle of nowhere. I would have to let it sit and cool down, start it up it would start back firing, bog down and stall with in a few min. Took me about an hour to get out of the woods.

I plan on getting a "refresh it" from Taff here in a week weeks once I have time to pull it all apart again. Will drain the oil and check the clutch stack as well to see if I can get that sorted out.

Any other idea on how to get this thing in prime running condition?


Oh I a question about the oil level as well. the manual says that when the bike is upright the oil level should be level with where the fill spout meets the case. There is also what looks like a minimum oil level drain bolt just below that. What one should I use? (I put in between the 2 when I did the oil)
 
Correct oil level (after running the motor a bit, then shutting it off and checking) is the bottom of the threads for the filler cap - the check bolt is to see if there is enough to safely start the motor. After being shut off for a time (overnight), a bit of oil will bleed past the reed valve back into the crankcase and it will appear that it is low on oil unless you start and run it a bit first. I discovered this when my '96 FE501 was brand new and it was always low on oil when checking it cold.

BTW, what oil are you using? The manuals for those years spec a 5W/50 full synthetic and if you use a heavier 20W/50 you may have a lot of clutch drag and hard starting. The Swedish built Husqvarnas ('87 and earlier) of long ago required 20w motor oil (75w gear oil in modern times) in the transmissions or you had clutch issues. I ran Castrol Syntech 5W/50 in my older Husabergs and had no problems with the clutch or with starting but ran semi-synthetic 20W/50 for break-in and personally experienced some clutch drag and difficult cold starting. The hot starting problem you are having may be the result of a failing ignition.
 
Yeah it doesn't explain that check bolt in the manual. Thanks....

My wife actually drove 12 hours to go pick up the bike so I can really talk to the past owner easily

Using Castrol Syntech 5W/50

Hopefully once I rebuild the carb it will take care of the start issue.
having to kick it over so many times I learned the hard way to make sure the motor is at the top of the stoke when kicking it. I still have a bruised foot and banged up shin from that lesson.
 

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