Margura Clucth Oil

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D

DOC 24V

Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
3
Hi,

Dan from Australia here, I'm a new member of the Burg family, with a 2011 FE390.

Riding in 30+ temps on a long hill climb, my culcth lever went dead (came to the bars with no resistance).

The culcth would not disengauge at all. I had drive to wheel all the time.

After a 10 minute rest it was all good & rode the rest of the day without a problem.

I will change the Margura Clucth Oil & see if it happens again.

Has anyone experienced this problem? & what other fulid can be run in the clucth, brake fluid, dot 4??

Any help would be great.

Thanks Dan form Oz.
 
Hi

Magura clutch oil is one AFT oil or ATF II, its oil you can find its to automatic transmission of cars.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
There ought to be several sources for mineral oil in Oz. It can be a challenge to find in the US, but it can be had. Do not use brake fluid of any kind.

Here's a hint on that hydraulic clutch. If you have a minor get-off and the bike is lying on its side with the engine running and the rear wheel turning, the reflex is to pull the clutch and then stand the bike up. DO NOT DO THAT. With the clutch master cylinder horizontial you will pump air into the hydraulic clutch system if you pull the lever. Use the kill switch. Then stand the bike up, find neutral, and hit the starter.
 
I found out on the weekend that RC car shocks use mineral oil and they have plenty a different weights of oil. it was about 4$ for a 100ml bottle.

There was a post awhile back talking about what fluids you could run in a magura clutch. use the seach function.
 
Not sure if you have Citroen cars out there but they sell mineral oil in there outlets. Think they use it in there cars somewhere and it's super cheap!
 
If the lever reservoir was low to begin with I can see how a long uphill climb and the use of the clutch may cause this.
If the bike were tilted enough and you actuated the lever a few times you could add air to the system which would compress when the lever was pulled and not permit the clutch to disengage.
I’m surprised it came back after sitting.
 
odonnks said:
If the lever reservoir was low to begin with I can see how a long uphill climb and the use of the clutch may cause this.
If the bike were tilted enough and you actuated the lever a few times you could add air to the system which would compress when the lever was pulled and not permit the clutch to disengage.
I’m surprised it came back after sitting.
Click to expand...

Hi,

The clucth was not used at all, just stayed in second all the way up a striaght hill.

Looks like no one has sceen this problem before.

Thanks for the replys.
 
The best fluid for the clutch is mineral oil. The best place to get it is at the drug store. I have been using Johnson's Baby Oil for years in my Ktm and now my Husaberg. This advice was given to my by a KTM dealer. Baby oil is 99.9% mineral oil with a little bit of fragrance put in. So if you spill some while topping up, your bike will smell nice.
 
Baby oil is not a substitute. It is the real thing. If you want to pay for the approved product, spend your money. If you check the label you will find it is just mineral oil with an added colour. The baby oil suggestion was given to me by a KTM racer and dealer who I trust.
 
The term "mineral oil" is a rather generic and imprecise term. It is an alkane (also known as paraffins or saturated hydrocarbons) and they are made up of only hydrogen and carbon atoms in a long chain, single-bond-between-atoms structure. The family of alkanes are known by the number of carbon atoms, and mineral oil falls in the C15 to C40 range.

Not being a chemist or petroleum engineer I can only presume that a mineral oil in the low C's will have different properties than a mineral oil in the high C's. Viscosity comes to mind, as does boiling point. It seems to me that the viscosity and boiling point of mineral oil that is marketed for use on the bottoms of babies doesn't matter. Who cares if the baby oil is C15, C29, or C40 if all you're going to do is rub it on junior's butt? But the chemical properties of the mineral oil in your hydraulic clutch might indeed matter. In a worse case scenario the difference might just get you stranded someplace you intended to just pass on through!

Most of us are choosy about the engine oil and fork oil we use, why wouldn't we apply the same concern and care to hydraulic clutch fluid?
 
Re: Margura clucth slave cyclinder oring?

Thanks, Gents for the info.

I finally got my local dealer to order some Motor X 75 Mineral Oil.

That is what Husaberg recommends for use in Margura clutches.

Now I have the oil, I have discovered I need a new o-ring on the slave piston.

This part is not listed separately, looks like i have to buy the whole slave?

Has any Berg owners found this o-ring as a separate part?

CLUTCH-1-1.gif


Thanks Dan.
 
Yes I have, and that part is NOT the slave cylinder piston seal. That o-ring seals the slave cylinder assembly to the engine and keeps the mineral oil where it belongs. Are you SURE you need a new slave cylinder piston seal? I thought that I did, bled it, and it works fine now.

HINT: If you ever have a get-off and the bike is lying on its side with the engine running and the rear wheel turning, hit the kill switch and DO NOT PULL THE CLUTCH before you stand the bike upright. Pulling the clutch lever with the master cylindar horizontal will introduce air into the hydrolic clutch system.
 
My son did that. Lost his clutch and could only find brake fluid.
When we got home we cleaned the rubber diaphragm in the mc and flushed from the bottom twice with drugstore mineral oil and syringe.
Next day pushed shimano oil through until it came out red up top and then once more for good measure. Not a problem. 8 months, and many miles later it's fine still.

I carry a tiny nalgene bottle with shimano oil in my camelback. One like this, $1.50 at rei;

6d7d3113.jpg
 
Got the bike shop (pedals) to fill up a 4oz bottle with shimano mineral oil from their big jug. Only charged me $2.50
 

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