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RE: Re: Loose swing arm
125nM which is er....a lot!
your bearings are so shagged that the shaft will be gone as well now. you might even find you have damage from the dowels into the frame left and right as well as the crankcase dowels. these are a very overlooked part and i would change them if they are gone.
the s/a dowels must touch frame and engine and the s/a is meant to swivel free.
regards
Taffy
125nM which is er....a lot!
your bearings are so shagged that the shaft will be gone as well now. you might even find you have damage from the dowels into the frame left and right as well as the crankcase dowels. these are a very overlooked part and i would change them if they are gone.
the s/a dowels must touch frame and engine and the s/a is meant to swivel free.
regards
Taffy
RE: Re: Loose swing arm
I have a 4mm gap on the left side between the engine and swingarm when the nut is at 60 nm.
Do ya think I should just crank her down.
I realy don't want to take it off and look.
100 nm is pretty tight, I'd hate to damage or bend something.
I have a 4mm gap on the left side between the engine and swingarm when the nut is at 60 nm.
Do ya think I should just crank her down.
I realy don't want to take it off and look.
100 nm is pretty tight, I'd hate to damage or bend something.
F+
If you look at the drawings for this you will see an inner bushing (Spacer), inside og the bearings. The nut butts up to this which then again butts up to the casing. This way tou can tighten it up, but the swingarm still rotate free. So your nut might be ok tight and spacers tight up against the engine. If your needle rollers are knackered you can tighten this till it breaks but it will still be sluggish. Take a look at the drawings and you will se, or even better, take it apart.
You might have taken this too far allready, and as Taffy says them spacers will have ground into the engine...
Hope not !! Good luck,
Anders, DK
If you look at the drawings for this you will see an inner bushing (Spacer), inside og the bearings. The nut butts up to this which then again butts up to the casing. This way tou can tighten it up, but the swingarm still rotate free. So your nut might be ok tight and spacers tight up against the engine. If your needle rollers are knackered you can tighten this till it breaks but it will still be sluggish. Take a look at the drawings and you will se, or even better, take it apart.
You might have taken this too far allready, and as Taffy says them spacers will have ground into the engine...
Hope not !! Good luck,
Anders, DK
Strange..... Probably to stop it from rotating when tightening the nut... that is if you don't have any other tools than a weldingmachine.....
Or the previous owner tryed to remove some "slack" this way ??? Grind it away and knock the bolt out, see what you have ...
BTW, are you sure it's welded onto the bolt itself... It looks like on the pic that the weld is on the frame... just to stop the bolt from spinnning ?
Anders, DK
Or the previous owner tryed to remove some "slack" this way ??? Grind it away and knock the bolt out, see what you have ...
BTW, are you sure it's welded onto the bolt itself... It looks like on the pic that the weld is on the frame... just to stop the bolt from spinnning ?
Anders, DK
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just been out to the shed to check mine and its the same.
there is a bead of weld for the flat side of the bolt to butt up against so that it doesnt turn when your cranking on the nut.
i know mines not welded to the frame as i've had it out to grease. your should be the same.
have you actually taken the nut off of the swing arm bolt nut and tried to remove the bolt yet?
there is a bead of weld for the flat side of the bolt to butt up against so that it doesnt turn when your cranking on the nut.
i know mines not welded to the frame as i've had it out to grease. your should be the same.
have you actually taken the nut off of the swing arm bolt nut and tried to remove the bolt yet?
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