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Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Messages
798
Location
Bellingham, WA
Looking for leads on sxs or ohlins suspension for the Hbg. Actually, I cannot even find part numbers for ohlins for husabergs. Used is preferred as I can't see dropping $3K in suspension parts.
 
tm enduro
the cartridge SXS fork is not the best off road fork, even some KTM factory mechanics
suggest that, factory riders have gone to the 52mm all aluminum fork and you can buy that fork, the price rather hefty $4000
Öhlins don't list a shock for newer Husaberg but I know that they have components
to build a shock if that is better than the WP shock, who knows? nobody that I know of uses Öhlins on Husaberg,
your frame is modified so a generic revalve for shock and fork would likely not as good
as it would on stock frame, based on your posts about bike it has different weight
bias and shock leverage I think that the only way to get better performance out of your suspension is custom job

VIKING
 
The WP's work great especially when tuned right, there are many good suspension guys around these days that can help you sort it out. I've been sending all my stuff over to Bob Bell at Precision Concepts, they come back beautifull. They do all the Baja race bikes and knows the WP's really well.
 
OK, I am picky. My gut feel is that the dampening is not far off, but I'm sure there is room for improvement. Often times what the higher end parts get you are better tolerances and harder/ slicker surfaces, thus greatly reducing the effects of side binds (forks are always in a state of side bind and shick would rather bend than compress as well). The trick is to reduce the forces (energy) absorbed in laterial force and convert it to heat energy thru shoving oil thru a valve or around washers. I don't necessarily think that sealed (TC) is required / warranted for low speed woods use as the oil does not get hot enough to thin (much more volume than shock and lower piston speeds) and foaming appantly is not a hugh issue. GasGas hit paydirt when they opted to put the hard anodized open cartridge forks on their enduro bikes, they have very SMOOTH action. One of my riding buddies recently got a set of them from Husky on put them on his '06 wr250 and noted greatly improved action in the rocks w/o getting to soft for faster stuff.
 
tm enduro
there are a few things that you have ask your self, does the displacement wear you out
or is it the suspension, does it work ok when you are fresh and beat you up toward the
end of the ride

so long VIKING
 
VIKING said:
tm enduro
there are a few things that you have ask your self, does the displacement wear you out
or is it the suspension, does it work ok when you are fresh and beat you up toward the
end of the ride

so long VIKING
I believe that it is a combination of suspension and power. Anyone that has ridden two bikes with diff displacement (say a 350 and a 570 Husky), will swear that the 350 has much better suspension in the rocks. Alot of this is the lateral force (trying to bend the forks backwards) exerted on the forks instead of telescoping. If you dooubt the effects of lateral force, think about how a slap down landing feels (sometimes it feels like your wrists are going to break!). In general, it is much harder to setup suspension on a big bike. If I had the bucks, I would put Solva conventional forks on the bike and be done with it!
 
tm enduro
I have not ridden your bike but, and this my opinion I have ridden 650 in tight woods after riding my 400 that I had, 650 has lot power but suspension did not feel that compromised by the power, yes it was a brute and it turned harder, but a gentle giant, from what I can read your biggest problem seems to be your fork, there are improvements that could be made to improve the fork

VIKING
 
tm . go with rsu 46mm solva watch ebay or the wp 50mm i have and old 97 fc 501 with the 50mm rsu wp forks and the ohlins rear shock with linkage!!

This set-up with stock valving and new oil is better than most of the new bikes put out today.

I'm not saying this because I have it. I've ridden all of the '07 models and I do suspension work for a lot of different racers.

What you find is everybody is constantly trying to find a fix for thier forks and thier pds shock when the true problem is not a couple valve shims. It's the design.
 
aryan
I have to agree with you. I have ridden the Paoili 46 rsu, and the zokes 45 and 50 rsu, and the wp 50 rsu, and agree that they all work very well in the rocks. It is suprsing how many guys are retrofitting the wp 50 rsu on their current ktm and gg enduro bikes. Solva seems to be the best (I have not had the opportunity to try one), but they are big $$$$. I suspect the Roland Solva has made a good pds shock as well. Being an engineering / physics nerd, I am fascinated by mechincallly optimized designs. The folks that have put the 48mm Ohlins fork on Ohlins PDS shock on their ktms have nothing but praises to say. You can bet that the sxs wp parts work much better than stock (they use the Ohlins licensed internals).
 
I run a KTM Ohlins fork on my FE750e, and a Bob Bell valved shock. All I can say is it's a night and day difference...

IMGP0648.sized.jpg
 
tm , i talked to Trampus Parker the other day the 125/ 250 world champion . he raced for VERTEMATI in 97 with solva 46mm rsu. trampas said they where the best forks ever made. he might start importing solva. pm me
 
Anyone tried the DRZ 400 forks? 49mm tubes with a favorable cartridge ratio, 28/12 compared to the older WP at 28/14. Here is my bosses 03 450 EXC with 98RM forks which have the same dimensions as the DRZ forks. Have only spent about 30minutes on it so far but hope get some time on it tommorrow. Also have a set of DRZ forks to test.

Used 50mm KTM clamps with shim stock, RM wheel, axle, caliper.
 

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ktmlew said:
Anyone tried the DRZ 400 forks?

Hey Lew, what are you going to do for front brakes? The DRZ has some of the worst brakes on the market... you're gonna need something.
 
PowerCell said:
ktmlew said:
Anyone tried the DRZ 400 forks?

Hey Lew, what are you going to do for front brakes? The DRZ has some of the worst brakes on the market... you're gonna need something.

Yea it felt a bit weak but need to get some new pads to be certain. Probably go to an over-sized rotor? I expected it to be a step back as the rotor is smaller. I may just buy a 260mm caliper adapter from Braking and use the KTM wheel with custom spacers? :roll:
 

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