Kickshaft

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 20, 2005
Messages
51
Location
Norway
I manage to brake my kickshaft a few days ago, order the new parts i now i've got them. But i'm a bit unsure about how to change the broken shaft...
need to get of the clutchbasket, do i just unscrew the 6(i think it was 6) screws and take the hole thing out??

cheers
sm_master
 
yes take the clutch off, and the shaft out. The most important thing to do is go very slowly and make sure you stack the parts and take notes on how to put it back. Even if you do this the first time fitting that kickstart will have you missing a days riding. Take written notes and with digital camera photo to remind yourself. If you think that is over the top write that down too and review it later???
 
thanks for the info
i have changed clutch on a 80cc 2-stroke, but not on a "big bike"
but it cant be that hard, so i'll give it a try. have a nice cam on my phone, so that wont be a problem:D

cheers
 
well, now the jobs done... but i have a little problem.
The clutch lever i stuck/i can pull it in, but the clutch seems to be "pressed inn" all the time. if i put it in 1. gear, it's almost like its in neutral.
What shell i do?

cheers
 
What year model is your bike? If it is a older bike say 96-97 I might be able to tell you. Where the rod comes through and butts against the center of the clutch there is a tiny button that fits in there. That might be your problem. The button is missing. Check and see. It is tiny.
 
I have a 2002 mod.
i read in another post that a guy has the same problem, and he just bleeded the clutch. but that don't seem to work for me....
 
SM_Master,

I had this same problem and this is what was required to fix it. I had to remove the slave cylinder from the bike where it attaches to the engine next to the counter shaft sprocket. There are three allen screws holding it to the engine. Remove the screws and pull the slave cylinder away from the bike. Now remove the piston from the cylinder taking care not to lose the small spring inside. Clean(replace if needed) the o-ring that forms the seal for the piston and refit. Also clean the sealing o-rings that mate the slave to the engine case. This is also a good time to flush the old juice from the system and clean everything up. Once done cleaning everything it's now time to reassemble. First, with the slave cylinder horizontal to the ground, fill the slave cylinder reservoir with new fluid so that it just begins to crest at the top. Next, place the piston back into the cylinder, make sure the spring is not forgotten, and try to keep any air from being trapped in the oil filled chamber. Place the piston on top and press it down into the cylinder with your thumbs, taking care not to damage the o-ring, but forcing the oil back up the hydraulic line towards the master cylinder. As the fluid moves up the line you may have to open the clutch lever to allow the built up pressure to escape into the master cylinder; this is done by pushing the clutch lever away from the handlebars (you normally pull the clutch lever in to disengage the clutch). I wedged a piece of wood in between the bars and the lever to hold it open. If at this point you are having problems, adjust the red plastic finger nut on the clutch lever at the master cylinder all the way in or all the way out. I believe you turn it all the way clockwise but I can't remember for sure.... As you are forcing the fluid back up the line, hold the slave cylinder as low as possible below the master cylinder but so that the hydraulic line entering the slave is at it's highest point, this is to allow any air bubbles to float upwards threw the system and not get trapped in the piston chamber. Once the o-ring of the piston is back into the slave cylinder, knock the piece of wood out from the clutch lever allowing it to relax back into its normal position. At this point you are ready to bolt the slave back onto the bike. Still holding the piston in place with your fingers, slap the slave into its mounting position against the engine. While holding the slave in position with some tension, replace the three allen head screws torquing them all into place. Now you should be ready to bleed the remainder of the line with fluid. Bleed from the bottom of the system (zerk type fitting on the slave) back up into the master cylinder. I used a hand pump oil can with a clear hose fitted to the nozzle tip to force the fluid up and out threw the master cylinder. I suppose a syringe of some sort would also work if you can get your hands on one. I'm sure you know the rest. Backfill the master cylinder reservoir until almost full and replace the cap and tighten screws. Clean up the mess and you should be good to go.

Tips for best results ..... Keep the line as vertical as possible while bleeding to ensure any trapped air is moving to the highest point which should be the master cylinder.
I hope this mumbo-jumbo makes sense, if you try it and it doesn't work, just post up and we will help you the best we can. Good luck!

Regards,
 
I just did as you said(i think)
I took out the slave cylinder, got the piston and the spring out, and filled with oil making sure there was no air, then i overfilled the cylinder and put the piston/spring back in and pressed it all the way back. i tried to use the clutch lever while pressing the piston with my thumb, and it seems to work ok. but when i fitted all the parts back on the bike, it still is rock hard to use the lever... Maybe im not doing it right?

I have done it about 3-4 times now, with no luck... seems like the cylinder wont go back. when i replace all the parts and try to use the clutch, i have to pump it a few times, but then it get hard again. I don't have anything to bleed the system with, so maby thats my problem??

cheers
sm_master
 
SM_Master said:
well, now the jobs done... but i have a little problem.
The clutch lever i stuck/i can pull it in, but the clutch seems to be "pressed inn" all the time. if i put it in 1. gear, it's almost like its in neutral.
What shell i do?

cheers

From what you said in this post, I think you may not have the the clutch pressure plate correctly engaged over the 6 short threaded posts on the clutch inner hub. The pressure plate may be sitting on the ends of the hub posts. This is keeping the clutch springs from compressing the clutch disks and engaging the clutch.

Its been several years since I had my 00 Berg apart, but I think I started to make that mistake on mine!

What do you think?

Regards,

Joe
 
yeah, probably just gonna have to split her open again...
but then we have another problem! the kick didn't fitt so good on the new shaft, so i gently forced it in to place with a hammer and it went almost all the way inn, but stopped 2mm before it reached the o-ring and the cover... so then i got a bit pissed, so i didn't use the hammer gently any more, but the kick wouldn't move as 0.000031mm, and now it stuck.
So now i feel like im in deep shait!
 
Big mistake to pound it on. The maintenance movie you got with your Berg talked about that and showed how to file down the spline corners so it would fit together easily.

Now you will need a small access gear puller to get it off.

Don't try to do it by prying against the cover with screw drivers or you will end up damaging the side cover also.

If you don't have the movie, let me know and I will send you a copy on a DVD.

Regards,

Joe
 
I know, but when its 2 weeks since your last ride, things like this can happen :p i filed it down a bit, but it didn't seem to help so much...
I'll try to get the kick off to morrow, just gotta borrow the right tools.
I fired her up tho, and the new kick shaft works like a charm :p

If you could send me a copy of that video, that would be great!'

thanks for all the help


cheers
sm_master
 
I don't know what it is but once you break a kick starter shaft they tend to keep breaking. Be careful. I am on my third shaft in 600KM.
 
ohh, 3 shafts in 600km? thats not good....
my first shaft lasted for about 12.000km, so i hope the next one live just as long...
 
evinp said:
I don't know what it is but once you break a kick starter shaft they tend to keep breaking. Be careful. I am on my third shaft in 600KM.

If I am not mistaken, Husaberg changed the design of the shaft in 04 to cure this. It is much stronger now, and will fit your 02.

Do a search and you should come up with some details and pictures.

Regards,

Joe
 
Gents,

Indeed the kickstart shaft did have a revision in '04 as Joe had suggested. I have enclosed a picture of the New vs. old side-by-side. There are many other photos in my gallery if anyone cares to take a look at them. Dale also has some photos in his gallery and I also suggest taking a look at them as he has posted many times about this upgrade in the past.

New vs. Old Kickstart shaft

SM_Master,

I also had some complications installing my kicker to the shaft once finished with installation. I did all of my modifications to the kickstarter splines instead of degrading the integrity of the shaft.

What I ended up doing was this.... With the kickstarter splined end firmly gripped in a vise, I used a Dremmil tool with a grinding bit affixed and milled off about 3-4 mm of the splines inside the hole facing the engine. I had made a simple jig out of wood and hose clamps and some epoxy. This was made similar to the guard housing you would find on a wood router, set so it would only allow the bit to mill 3-4mm down. I will admit that it took some time as the dremmil bit kept getting mucked up with aluminum from the splines but after about 45 minutes of persistence and bit changes, I ended up with a perfect fit and professionally looking piece that slid right on and mated right up against the o-ring for a good fit. I did use a small triangular file to clean up the splines of the kickshaft as the tolerances were a bit snug at first.
The problem I think is that the newer shafts have a tapered spline termination at the last 2-3mm of the the shaft before it becomes a smooth shaft. The older style shaft splines ended abruptly and allowed the kick starter to move all the way to the end of the splines. I thought it better to replace the kickstarter rather than the shaft so I chose altering the kicker.

Regarding the clutch engagement, I presume Joe is right on in his evaluation of the problem. If the clutch pack is not fully engaged with the appropriate tension via the six clutch springs, the actuation rod will not come in contact with the clutch slave piston therefore the piston of the slave actuates all the way forward against the engine without any tension to press it back in. If this is the case, I would presume the clutch pack is not fully compressed or the springs are caught up on something like Joe had theorized. If indeed you do open up the side cover to check this out, I would suggest getting everything working properly before sealing the side cover again. You should be able to work through this problem and get the clutch working properly with the side cover off the bike. You do have the clutch rod back in the bike right??? Keep us posted on this and we'll get things sorted out.

Regards,
 
JoeUSA said:
SM_Master said:
well, now the jobs done... but i have a little problem.
The clutch lever i stuck/i can pull it in, but the clutch seems to be "pressed inn" all the time. if i put it in 1. gear, it's almost like its in neutral.
What shell i do?

cheers

From what you said in this post, I think you may not have the the clutch pressure plate correctly engaged over the 6 short threaded posts on the clutch inner hub. The pressure plate may be sitting on the ends of the hub posts. This is keeping the clutch springs from compressing the clutch disks and engaging the clutch.

Its been several years since I had my 00 Berg apart, but I think I started to make that mistake on mine!

What do you think?

Regards,

Joe

Yeah nail on the head, this is what I did when I put it back together.

Altogether it has taken me like 4 weeks to change the kickstart shaft - mainly cos I'm a pure *****! Learnt loadsa stuff about my bike now tho so alls well that ends well.
 
hey, thanks for all that great info boys :p
I got the problem solved yesterday!
The kick that was stuck i got loose whit a little MAN power :p
As for the clutch, i just took it apart and put it back in bit by bit, and then i just worked... don't know what i could have done wrong the first time, but now my bike is up and running again! weee:p

And again, thanks for all the help!

cheers
sm_master
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top