Kick start shaft issues..........

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Joined
Mar 7, 2012
Messages
7
Hello folks.
Former KTM owner, now FE450 2008 owner :oops: I loved the spanner time on the KTM but the berg is slowly destroying my love of bikes.

Please someone help before I set light to it :evil:

As usual the issue started with water pump seal leaking oil, I got it done easy all back together but the kick starter was locked :shock:

Took it to a local garage-big mistake- got the bike back and kick start worked but seal started leaking again!!

Stripped it down last week found a splinter from the starter hook on the sump plug :roll: even bought the shaft guide tools to protect the seals as the case goes on- all reassembled and kick start shaft still locked :evil:

What the **** am I doing wrong? I have had the bike 3 months and only got to ride it twice :cry:

All comments welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Matt
 
Time for a nice cold beer and relax before starting.
I had the same issue when I fully rebuilt my bike. All went great apart from the kick start was jammed.
Several attempts some nearly successful with the shaft spinning around as the casing was going on.
My issue was that I was trying to assemble the shaft, cog spring etc. as a unit. This is what I have done on Honda's in the past.
I was desperate to get the bike running after the rebuild as I was leading the rides at the UK Forces ride.
Wish I had called Taff earlier as he put me right on the assembly technique. Too late to do it before the event and yes you guessed the battery chose the one ride I used it for to pack up.
After getting home I lay the bike on its side and went through it several times until I was sure it was right. Taff had advised that the sledge may need packing out with a washer if the kickstart was not locking under tension.
The main thing is to assemble the shaft and spring first making sure that the shaft fits and locks in the sledge.
After that the gear and sprung loaded finger are fitted. Be careful of the finger and spring when assembling with the bike laying on its side as they may fall into the gearbox/engine . Then fit the needle roller into the centre of the gear.
Easy when I knew how but I was as frustrated as you sound before it all clicked for me.
All well now Kick and button start fully functioning.
Good luck
 
Cheers Eddie, glad to hear it not just me :oops: Im **** hot with spanners, but the designer of the clutch casing on these bikes should have been eaten at birth :wink: Its like the starter,gear and kick shafts all point different ways :eek:

Never before in my motorcycling history have I know such an awkward component to fit :evil:

If it dont work this time, Im gonna crush it with a steam roller and plant it in my garden as a modern art master piece :twisted: Im not know for my patients, and this bike has really tested them.

Yet another water pump seal, sledge and O-ring will be here Thursday :? I will post my progress.
 
Well- mission complete 8) no oil or water leaks, and the kick start is now spot on :cheers:

A couple of things worth mentioning for folk struggling in the future would be..................


Check the stop marks on the kick start shaft and the sledge its self. Upon closer inspection it will be obvious if the sledge needs shimming out slightly to prevent the kick start jamming again. This wasn't done by the mechanic that did the work and resulted in kick start failure shortly after :angry:

The tiny rubber O ring on the water pump shaft must be changed every the clutch cover comes off, even though un-damaged it appears to lose its sealing abilities at the slightest whiff of daylight :)

The factory tools (shaft seal guides) are a must in my opinion :oops: the water pump one is plastic and is fairly cheap (about £5) although the kick start one is not :evil: cost about £20 and is steel, but looking at it now they are worth their weight in gold 8) The grove for the water pump impeller circlip is so sharp its very easy to shred the seal when trying to shuffle the clutch case on, but they are great for lining the case up on approach and allows the case to hang firm while checking the gasket and O'ring before pushing it home.

Hope that helps the next poor b*stard that enters a Husaberg clutch cover :wink:


Im off to break something else on it now :doh:
 
you'll have to cut out the humour I'm sorry....we haven't had anyone laugh round here for years - even all the aussies here are the serious ones.... :twisted: :twisted:

well done.

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
you'll have to cut out the humour I'm sorry....we haven't had anyone laugh round here for years - even all the aussies here are the serious ones.... :twisted: :twisted:

well done.

Taffy

Yeah right, no sense of humour while owning a Husaberg :roll: The suicide rate must be sky high on here :lol:
 
It's my turn to have the melt down the water pump/kick situation. I have only just got onto this thread. I am also trying to install the kickstaert mechanism as a unit. I see above this is a no-no. Is the correct procedure to remove the idler wheel and install the spring first followed by the rest. Then tension it?

I am also awaiting parts as above.

I've been having pleasant dreams about the XR600 I had years ago.
 
Yes fit the spring and shaft first. Then when you are sure the shaft is locked in the sledge fit the gears.
There is lots written in various threads about protecting the waterpump seals when refitting the cover with good reason.
The husaberg repair manual is very clear in everything else apart from the kickstart.

Good luck
 
Anyone from Pacific Northwest for help on clutch side rebuild

Hi just got a husaberg and the weep hole fix needed doing so I changed the seals and bearing, then reassembled it but kick started was jammed took the clutch off and reassembled it but still it's tight or locked does anyone know if I need to align any of the gears in any order or tips to reassemble would've helpful
I live near Everett WA so if there are any gear heads out there who be will willing to help me out and guide me where I am going wrong I would appreciate some help and $ and beers on the table as always
Just want to get this beast running
 
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this might help

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/16151-water-pump-seals-replacement.html

i put the shaft in by itself first without the gear and make sure its correctly located

then install the gear over the top by rotating it clockwise as its pushed on

should look like this, the dog (and shaft) need to be far enough in to be slightly lower than the guide its resting on

12083654184_c9a24f003f_c.jpg


if the shaft doesn't move upward while you install the cover it can't come out, maybe enlist some help if its difficult
 
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from the "owners doc" Main Page - Owner's Doc

Kickstart fitment

Remove the outer gear and bearing for now so that you have just the splined shaft complete with 'keyhole' ratchet (sledge key) and it's tiny spring fitted. The diagram in the parts manual shows the kickstart spring the wrong way around! So you need the straight pointed end to face away from the bike at your face!

Fit the straight part of the spring into the tiny hole in the kickstart mechanism and then fit the hooked end into the engine case feeding it all in as one. Leave the body of the splined shaft OUTSIDE the crescent and re-fit the kickstart arm at 11 o'clock. Start winding the unit clockwise until the 'keyhole' shaped ratchet piece goes past the 'stop' of the crescent plate. Now, holding the sledge key 'closed', press the unit down into the case using the kickstart lever to 'wobble' it down. Release both the keyhole and the kickstart lever. The unit will turn itself counter-clockwise and rest against the shoulder of the crescent. Now hold the gear down while you remove the kickstart arm and you're ready to fit the bearing and gear on. Because the keyhole is 'closed up', the gear will drop on!
 
Hi guys,new berg owner 2004 fe450e and new to the forum.just replaced my clutch cover gasket after finding it leaking oil.and after the kickstart shaft giving me greif putting it back together finall got it to stay when installing the clutch cover.kick start works fine and have taken it for a day and a half worth of riding with no issues.im just curious to find out if i should be worried or prepared for any kick start issues or the shaft popping out now that its all back together and working properly or is this just an issue if the mechanism is not installed correctly in the first place?thanks for any help guys
 

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