jetting suggestions

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Sep 5, 2004
Messages
1,036
Location
Clovis, CA USA!
I would like some suggestions. I have an stock 02 fc470E I do the majority of my riding above 3000 elevation. the problem in the past has been hesitation and stalling at less than 1/4 throttle, fuel fouled plugs. occasionally difficult hot starting. I had to turn my idle up to keep it from stalling in the tights with alot of clutch work... (I guess i should look at a recluse)

My jetting has been;
k35 needle clip 3rd position
45 start jet
190 main jet
dr266 needle jet
42 pilot jet
300 float needle jet.

fuel screw at 1 1/2 turn

I have the following at my disposal,

35 pilot jet
188 or 182 main jet

I would like to try these as they were suggested by a trusted source, but i would like some other suggestions as well.
 
Risky, this is off topic, but...

Every time I look at your avatar, I crack up!!! Is that your kid, or you??

-Parsko

-ps I had to say something
 
That is one of my four boys hamming it up with a cheeto. It was very funny at the time.
 
I am going to guess that you have a float level problem rather than a jetting issue. It may be a fuel inlet needle and seat as well. If you have high hours on the carb it may be time for a new needle and needle jet. At 3000 foot elevation I would think clip adjustments would be good enough.

As always....I may be wrong :wink:
 
I have the carb apart right now. I will be doing a full service on it. it looks very clean and in good shape and nothing looks worn really. the needle and seat look good. I have very limit knowledge of what the floats do in a carb so an explanation of what a float level problem is might be in order. any takers?
 
The float is simply a little fuel reservior in your carb. All of the jets are submerged in the fuel, in the reservior, as a result of the floats.

Great analogy. Ever popped the top off your toilet? There is a plunger on a metal rod that goes up and down with water level. As the water level drops (after you have dropped a giant deuce and flushed) the float drops too. This opens a valve to let water back in. As the level rises, the water stops. If you bend the metal rod the float is attached to, it will change your "float level" or amount of water(fuel) in the tank.

In your carb, you have a float (or 2 depending on the carb) that is hooked up to a "metal rod", which is hooked up to a little "needle" which seats on an o-ring (some are a square taurus). When you consume fuel (WOT for instance) the float will drop, opening the needle valve allowing more fuel back in.

Okay, this is where Dale can chime in: on top of the fuel in the float chamber is atmosheric pressure (from the vent tubes) pushing on the fuel. In the opening of the carb (where the air goes through) you have a vacuum. There is a difference in pressure that causes the fuel to suck through your jets (depends on the pressure as to which jet is used and when). Here is where Dale can fix what I am saying. If you change your float level ("bend the metal rod", I think most Dellortos are 19mm), this will result in a higher or lower amount of fuel. Each jet is at a different depth in the fuel, in the float chamber. If you change the float level, this will change the amount of pressure (both atmospheric and fluid pressure (fluid pressure being a result of the depth of fluid, if you change the float level, you change this depth and thusly change the fluid pressure)) acting on the jets, and thus change fuel curve of the carb.

Dale, am I correct on that last part, does the fluid pressure, as a result of the float level, make a difference, even though it is measured in millimeters???

Get it, got it, good!

-Parsko
 
42 pilot seems a bit large for 3000 ft plus. If it were mine I'd try the 35 or a 37, reset the fuel screw, and raise the needle one or two setting to keep the throttle response. I've tried big pilots to get rid of hesitation/spitbacks but the small hole under the front portion of the slide (fed by the pilot) seems to pick up a strong signal at very low throttle settings. Big pilots even foul up the idle mixture causing you to have to open the slide which leads to hard starting. Raising the needle brings the enrichment into play a bit later leaving the low throttle settings clean.
dan
 
Thanks parsko! Okay then i would assume that a float level problem would occur is one of the floats were becoming bound up as they travel up and down the metal rods, correct? thus changing the fuel curves. if this is the case, mine seem to be fuctioning quite well, no stiction at all. what else should I be looking for... I am looking to get as close to near perfect state of tune as possible without sending the carb of to Dale. I think the account manager at the bank would have a fit since this is turning out to be a $600 tune with the new stator and every thing else.
 
you know, it just occured to me that I am wrong. Cause, since the fuel tank is above the carb floats (as in the original John Crapper design), when the float is stuck open, fuel will pour out the jets and into the intake manifold. This will flood the motor.

I don't think the fluid pressure makes a difference that much. gamma*h=not much when we are talking mm, or parts of millimeters...

-Parsko
 
Parsko said:
Dale, am I correct on that last part, does the fluid pressure, as a result of the float level, make a difference, even though it is measured in millimeters???
-Parsko

All else remaining equal atmospheric pressure remains the same, however, the "fuel lift" is greater with a reduction in float height consequently providing less fuel for a given signal.

Float level does play an important role and to a lessor degree so does the fuel head pressure (fuel reservoir distance above inlet needle / seat) and needle / seat area.

The fuel level does indeed have a pronounced influence on fuel delivery in particularly during light throttle openings.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dale
 
dsducati said:
42 pilot seems a bit large for 3000 ft plus. If it were mine I'd try the 35 or a 37, reset the fuel screw, and raise the needle one or two setting to keep the throttle response. I've tried big pilots to get rid of hesitation/spitbacks but the small hole under the front portion of the slide (fed by the pilot) seems to pick up a strong signal at very low throttle settings. Big pilots even foul up the idle mixture causing you to have to open the slide which leads to hard starting. Raising the needle brings the enrichment into play a bit later leaving the low throttle settings clean.
dan

okay, i will try the 35 pilot, by raising the needle you mean setting the clip in say the 4th position?
 
Risky, just because they travel smoothly, does not mean they set correctly. Remember my analogy regarding the "bent metal rod" setting the level of water in the toilet tank. This does make a difference, but offhand, I am not sure why. Dale???

-P

(now I'm leaving work!!! Good luck, and remember beer always helps)
 
Raising the needle would mean moving it from the 3rd groove to the 4th or 5th. Other guys are correct that float level could be too high. Toss the carb around on the bench a bit rough with the float bowl off to clean sediment etc, and it can bend the tang that contacts the needle raising the fuel level.
dan
 
Setting the float height:

First and foremost, set the float height correctly before you start diving way too deep into fuel head pressure/intake signal stuff. Remember the KISS theory Keep It Simple Stupid.

So, on your delorto......Which is probably pretty close the same delorto on my 2001 501. Let's talk about the function of the fuel inlet needle and seat. First examine with a magnifying glass the needle. The little sythetic rubber point should have no flaws whatsoever. If there is any question at all replace both the needle and seat. Now, the needle. If you will notice, there is a little plunger in the center of the needle that rides on the float arm. You will also notice that this little plunger has a spring in it. This is to take up the gyrations and sloshing of the fuel in the bowl during riding.

Now, to set the float height, which by the way has nothing to do with the actual floats themselves, but, rather the arm that the float rides on.

With the float bowl off and the float arm and needle and seat installed. Hold the carb upside down, and at a 45 degree angle with the float arms pointing down. You will see that the center of the float arm is what is in contact with the fuel inlet needle plunger. At this point you can lightly push on the float arm to see the action that the spring loaded plunger has. The reason that we are holding the carb upside down and at a 45 degree angle is so that we can see the float arm in contact with the plunger on the fuel inlet needle, and, this is most important, to make sure we are not compressing the fuel inlet needle plunger spring.

Now that you are holding the carb in this fashion, the long float arms should be parallel to the flange that the float bowl seats against. If the long float arms are pointing towards the flange, the float level will be too high, and would/could cause excessive fuel enrichment, IE flooding. If the long float arms are pointing away from the flange the float level is too low and would cause fuel pick up problems for the pilot circuit. Which in theory could give you a big flat spot as you are opening the throttle and transitioning from the pilot circuit to the needle circuit, as the intake signal starts to drop off.

I found on my deloroto shod 94 & 1/2 501 that the float level was way off, (lean or too low) which contributed to hard starting problems. Sometimes a huge impact can bend this adjustment, but, I think if that happened the float level would be the least of your worries. More likely would be that it was not set correctly during assembly.

And as another post said quite correctly: "If you raise your idle too much, the intake signal at start up will be weak and make it hard to start". This is also very important. All three of my Husaberg's have been very easy starters when hot, or cold. You just have to get it set up right.

So as with most mechanical things, make sure the float level is set correctly before starting any jetting changes. Otherwise you could end up chasing your tail and never catch it.

If you have the need, don't hesitate to give me a call. 818-383-6035.

P.S. Make sure that the long float arms are parallel with each other. And there is one other thing. Make sure one of the floats doesn't have a hole in it. To check this leave them submereged in fuel, then take them out wipe them off and shake them indivually. You'll either hear the fuel sloshing inside, or you will see a lttle wet spot where the leak is.
 
well my replacment radiator arrived today... yeehaa

Okay here is my set up..

k35 needle clip 4th position
45 start jet
182 main jet
dr266 needle jet
35 pilot jet
300 float needle jet.

I inspected the needle, the floats and everything else suggested. all looks good

I adjusted the Idle and mixture screws to best idle and the bike sounds good once running. But...

restarting off the button, i get a lot of coughs and pops through the air filter (never happened before) and I have to crack the manual decomp just a bit while cranking and let in crank for 5-10 seconds and it slowly starts, to me it sounds as if it is fuel starved.

is this normal behavior for starting the buke at 200 elevation when it is supposedly set up for 3000+
 
there shouldn't really be a fuel issue at starting or idle. it can be a little out but the starting circuit and idle are virtually unaffected. at a lower elevation than for where it was set the bike would now be lean.

but you can't say that it was ever right for sure can you? so i suggest that you set the fuel screw to the highest idle setting and then lower the idle screw to a happy setting. get it really hot and try some snap wheelies and generally to get some messages back.

due to your inexperience you will mistaken rich for lean and vice-versa. however it's a process you have to go through. take the rad sidepanles off and that makes the bike 20 seconds to work on.

your jetting is totally different to the two settings you were given on the 'owners doc'.

regards

Taffy
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top