is my fan to much for the battery?

i have a 08 fe650 i installed a turntech 5.0 battery and it has trouble starting the bike even after being charged. the bike will fire when i kick it (so it does run fire up fine). i have a fan factory kit and was wondering if its drawing to much power. is anyone else using a turntech? do you have to pull d-comp to get it turning the let it fire?

thanks

1) You could have a bad battery.
2) I always use the manual decompression device to get er spinning. It seems to take alot of wear and tear off the system.

Get used to kicking it mate. I tried all the kits and shims and batteries and starter motor crap and nothing really worked 100%.

Your problem is that the fan kit for the '08 bikes cuts in at 85°C - which is not much above the normal engine running temperature. In consequence the fan runs a lot of the time and, at low engine speeds, drags more out of the battery than the charging system shoves in. Result misery. It cost me a couple of new batteries before I discovered the problem!

The fix is to use the thermo-switch from the 09-onwards bikes (if you search the forum you'll find the part number) which cuts in at 100°C. It's adequate to stop the bike boiling up, but doesn't drain the battery nearly as much.

Greg

thanks greg i was leaning towards that, in my race on the weekend it seemed like it was on the hole time.

I installed this switch on my 07, 95c on, 90c off. Works good.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Cata ... 81982&An=0
BTW the switch is out of a 1984 BMW 318i Sedan if you need to search..

GregUK said:

Your problem is that the fan kit for the '08 bikes cuts in at 85°C - which is not much above the normal engine running temperature. In consequence the fan runs a lot of the time and, at low engine speeds, drags more out of the battery than the charging system shoves in. Result misery. It cost me a couple of new batteries before I discovered the problem!

The fix is to use the thermo-switch from the 09-onwards bikes (if you search the forum you'll find the part number) which cuts in at 100°C. It's adequate to stop the bike boiling up, but doesn't drain the battery nearly as much.

Greg

Click to expand...

A much cheaper option to use the identical thermo-sensor (called auxiliary fan switch) from an '84 BMW 318i auto available from your auto parts dealer for less than $20 rather than $60+ for the OEM sensor. Select either a 95/90 C or a 100/95 C unit.

thanks for the beamer tip aswell saved 50 bucks there. does anyone know if a battery tender charger will charge the turn tech correctly? after having the charger on it. it still seems to have little juice. i read something on turntechs site about the a certain type of charger not working with there batteries.

The battery tender chargers work fine on the TurnTech Li batteries.

Chas said:

A much cheaper option to use the identical thermo-sensor (called auxiliary fan switch) from an '84 BMW 318i auto available from your auto parts dealer for less than $20 rather than $60+ for the OEM sensor. Select either a 95/90 C or a 100/95 C unit.

Click to expand...

Hi Chas,

Would this be the right switch for an FE390?



The specs say BMW 3 (E30) | 1982.09-1992.01, M12 x 1.5

Thanks.

Noppy said:

Chas said:

A much cheaper option to use the identical thermo-sensor (called auxiliary fan switch) from an '84 BMW 318i auto available from your auto parts dealer for less than $20 rather than $60+ for the OEM sensor. Select either a 95/90 C or a 100/95 C unit.

Click to expand...

Hi Chas,

Would this be the right switch for an FE390?

The specs say BMW 3 (E30) | 1982.09-1992.01, M12 x 1.5

Thanks.

Click to expand...

That is not the correct switch. The correct switch is a double prong unit which looks just like the original KTM sensor.

The 100C Thermo Switch in the newer bikes is:

THERMOSWITCH 95-100 DG
78035045000
U04
36060
FAE
100 / 95

14mm x 1.5mm thread
The thread part is 11.4mm long

Thanks!

What does the 95/100 say?

Does that mean that it switches on at 95 and off again at 100?

I would rather try the 90/95 then....

So after reading this are the an kits from the 08 bikes different from the newer ones, i got mine from the Internet rather then the local dealer and could only find the one type. Hope I got the right one.

08FE650 said:

So after reading this are the an kits from the 08 bikes different from the newer ones, i got mine from the Internet rather then the local dealer and could only find the one type. Hope I got the right one.

Click to expand...

Yes, they are different. I did make an 08 work in my 09, in fact I preferred the mounting set up of the 08. If you bought an 09 for an 08 you are going to have to come up with a way to mount it.
You will need some of these.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and ... 41105.html

Noppy said:

Thanks!

What does the 95/100 say?

Does that mean that it switches on at 95 and off again at 100?

I would rather try the 90/95 then....

Click to expand...

The stock 100/95 (or 95/100) sensor turns on at 100C (212F) and off at 95C (203F). The aftermarket 95/90 sensor turn on at 95C (203F) and off at 90C (194F).

The higher temp thermal switches will help your problem, but, does not fix the main problem.

The stock regulator/rectifier only puts about 25 Watts of DC voltage towards the battery, or 1.85 amps @ 13.5 VDC, and the other 95 is AC voltage for the lighting system. Your fan is drawing roughly 2 amps.

I corrected this issue on my bike by shipping my stator off to UHE member sparks, and he rewound the stator for all DC use. Installed a TT universal 150 Watt regulator/rectifier, and ran the whole output to the battery, and then ran all the lighting off of the battery as well.

I have run all day in tight twisty conditions with the stock 85C thermo switch, stopped and started all day long with out an issue. Even with all the lights on there is more than enough left over wattage to run the fan and charge the battery at a very quick rate.

So, to begin with, you are at a bit of a losing battle with only 25 Watts going to charge the battery after using the electric start.

The main difference with the way Sparks does his re wind as opposed to just floating the neutral as a lot of companies do, is that by just floating the neutral on the original stator, you run the windings in series, which gives you about 120 VAC for the regulator to shunt down to 13.5 VAC before handing it over to the rectifier. With Sparks rewind, you end up with around 60VAC for regulator to hand off to the rectifier.

See my post here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8852

Its a bit of overkill for most people but I put in a new loom as I was going to be running helmet lights etc.... The average person need not go to such extremes................sorry that I did not include a single line as promised.

Another option is to not use a thermal switch, just put in a toggle switch and use as needed. That is how I ran it on the pre 06 bikes without the radiator bung.

Couldn't we run with both?

Noppy said:

Couldn't we run with both?

Click to expand...

Yes, if you want to. Connect the toggle switch in series with the thermal switch and of you go.


regards

/Nick