i seek your advice my freinds!

Taffy · Jun 30, 2008

i have decided that i need to make a special tool/mcahine to rub down my mains journals! and i'd like your advice?

firstly, let's start with what i need to do: i need to rub down the journals by holding a peice of steel still with some wet 'n dry on it. slow speed and with the con rod strapped to an old big end that i've thrown through the balancer 'eye' and zip tied.

the crank i've noticed can be held on the left by a pair of intermediate shaft inners that even come with 2RS = result. on the right i can fit an old intermediatte shaft outer onto the left turn thread. fits a treat and on the shoulder of the oil seal i can fit the bearing from behind the clutch.

now i want it to rev slowly but quick enough if yo know what i mean! i would like to leave my drill on a low speed and somehow couple it to turning the crank.

rule is: must have freedom to get to the journals.

anyway, so now i'd like some ideas! my engineer could machine a housing for the pair of bearings at each end and and perhaps i could weld them on a fram with large gap for the flywheels and the flailing rod! (ok only 1" shows)

regards

Taffy

JoeUSA · Jun 30, 2008

Taffy said:
i have decided that i need to make a special tool/mcahine to rub down my mains journals! and i'd like your advice?

firstly, let's start with what i need to do: i need to rub down the journals by holding a peice of steel still with some wet 'n dry on it. slow speed and with the con rod strapped to an old big end that i've thrown through the balancer 'eye' and zip tied.

the crank i've noticed can be held on the left by a pair of intermediate shaft inners that even come with 2RS = result. on the right i can fit an old intermediatte shaft outer onto the left turn thread. fits a treat and on the shoulder of the oil seal i can fit the bearing from behind the clutch.

now i want it to rev slowly but quick enough if yo know what i mean! i would like to leave my drill on a low speed and somehow couple it to turning the crank.

rule is: must have freedom to get to the journals.

anyway, so now i'd like some ideas! my engineer could machine a housing for the pair of bearings at each end and and perhaps i could weld them on a fram with large gap for the flywheels and the flailing rod! (ok only 1" shows)

regards

Taffy

I don't quite follow you Taffy.........

Are you trying to reduce the dia. of the crank shaft main bearing journals?

If so, I have to ask why!

You can get class 3 and 4 ball bearings. believe me, you do not want to get the fit loose enough for the inner bearing race to move around on the crank or the outer race in the case to move around in the case (this happened to my friends 79 CR Husky and my 72 Yamaha 360 MX).

Kind regards,

Joe

Taffy · Jun 30, 2008

RE: Re: i seek your advice my freinds!

how about a 1LB hammer to get the crank into the bearings! actually i've found a cheap lathe that i'll ask my engineer about tomorrow. $300 and holds items with a 110mm throw. three jaw chuck and a post. cheap and cheerful - made in china no doubt!

yes i'm serious joe and i'm not the only one thats doing it. it turns out it's going on all over the show.....

you know me. firstly i ask a load of impertinent but very well aimed questions and drag the answers out of people. then i do it myself and spread the word.

regards

Taffy

bushmechanic · Jun 30, 2008

RE: Re: i seek your advice my freinds!

thats awesome Taffy, Thumbs up!

all lathes are good. you will love it. even if your engineer says its crap its better than a drill in the vice.

even the good ones need to be set up properly or they are arguably more useless than the china ones.

Taffy metering rods? EKQT or TDMS ? or DKQ-EMS-SST. super slim tip.

Regards

Bushie

seabeast · Jun 30, 2008

Hi Taffy

This mod you are doing, is it a follow on from the bearing failure threads that was posted a while back? Just a guess but are you trying to relieve the fit on the inner ring of the bearing to the journal, thus reducing the preload on the mains bearings?

How much material are you hoping to remove from the journals?

Cheers
Seabeast

Taffy · Jul 1, 2008

seabeast

we are talking microns my freind. i have brought a load of P180/240/600/1000 wet 'n dry and i'm getting geared up.

as it's difficult to measure microns i figured i'd try and hold the tool level and true and just keep measuring/trying.

as for the housing in the case, well i have bought a pair of 'flapper' wheels of 50mm diameter and two grits. P180 and P400 (i think!).

we'll see!

BOSS · Jul 1, 2008

One need's to have a true crank to start with,Following along still ok,

Install chisel between flywheel cheeks with big end pin at bottom,Still there?

Insert crankshaft assembly into left hand side with crank seal greased.

Press crankshaft assembly till lightly seated! Of course keeping a good eye on your

timing marks on the water shaft & balancer,Left hand side is ok spin's free,with me?

Piston now is ready to install into cylinder the clip must be installed on one side of the

piston, slide down on rod as an assembly insert piston pin & other clip ,ok.

Right side cover should go together smoothly now or heat must be used on bearing!

If this is done correctly service life is excellent Breathren!Oh & Taffy too

Taffy · Jul 1, 2008

thank you brother boss!

regards

Taffy

spanner · Jul 1, 2008

You could try using a small brake/ cylinder hone to make the id of the inner race larger, you would have to do a few at once to have a decent length to operate the hone in.

spanner.

Taffy · Jul 1, 2008

my engineer is like a big girl, i had to call him and explain that i would still bring everything to him coz i'd be useless with a lathe! he felt "left on the shelf!" and "jilted"!!!! LOL!!!

regards

Taffy

azthumper · Jul 1, 2008

Sounds like you are trying to spin a crank while polishing down mains journals to fit bearing? correct me if I am wrong.

Have you tried the hot and cold method with a little lube, another solution would be to fix the crank stationaty and with a roll of proper grit emery cloth pull it around the journals by hand at 90 deg intervals. while covering 180 deg. of the journal.

That lathe looks very small, spining an unbalanced crank and any speed could lead to an injury and mucked up parts. One really should not spin up heavy parts just on a whim. Dont you have crank lathes in the UK.

Taffy · Jul 1, 2008

Have you tried the hot and cold method with a little lube,
A; and what will that acheive? the bearings are under pressure this would just disguise it! this isn't the answer.

fix the crank stationaty and with a roll of proper grit emery cloth pull it around the journals by hand at 90 deg intervals
A; so i'd have 4 corners maybe just 2. this isn't the answer.

That lathe looks very small
A; it is.

spining an unbalanced crank and any speed could lead to an injury and mucked up parts
A; i agree. so we'd better use some common sense, some grey matter, some nouse and do a good job.

Dont you have crank lathes in the UK.
A; probably. do you have all the right tools in your lock-up? its a little unrealistic to even contemplate this.

i've already taken steps to balance the assembly as much as possible beforehand. thanks for the interest.

regards

Taffy

Neil_E. · Jul 2, 2008

I like to leave the expensive part (the crank) as is. Spanner has the right idea. Since you have a lathe, take two pieces of steel rod stock that is larger in diameter than your bearing and machine them up as follows:

1) cut them to be about twice the width of the bearing
2) bore them out to match the exact bearing ID, and bore a recess in each so they will pilot partway over the bearing OD with a slight press (the recess should be stepped by .001" so they touch against the inner race first)
3) drill and tap a pair of clamp holes near the outer edge, so you can bolt them up tight to the bearing
4) add a pair of tapped removal holes so you can jack them apart later (small setscrews to push against the edge of the outer race, leave in to block grit entry)
5) use a small wheel cylinder hone to enlarge the bearing bore; the extra width of your clamp pieces will keep the hone true and the clamping action will hold the inner race from turning (and seal the bearing from grit)
6) for faster action, have the assembly in the lathe chuck rotating opposite to your drill/hone rotation
7) clean away any traces of abrasive before disassembly

i seek your advice my freinds!

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Taffy

JoeUSA

Taffy

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Taffy

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Taffy

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