how to wire my headlights - fe501 1996

no matter how much I tried, the lights always get burnt once I open throttle. I assume its bevause the current is not rectified - I just dont know how to do it.

this is the coil with red, orange, green and black wires coming out of it
in addition, there is a ground plug-like component next to it (the silver part) with 1 wire sticking out of it





these are the wires coming straight from the stator (2 yellows, blue, red, green, black)


now the question is - what connects with what?
currntly I have the red connected to the red, yellow from the statorl connected to orange, green to green, black to black, blue from stator connected straight to the + of the head light

this is the bike btw...

connect up your coil color to color, the orange is for your kill switch. blue is grounded to the grounding ring. yellow (2 of them, one is ok if you run standard wattage lamps and both together give you higher wattage capability) is the ac power coming for your lights. your lights will run on ac voltage. it looks to me that your grounding ring (with all the terminals) is sitting under your voltage limiter (the silver block). you need to tie the lead from the limiter into the yellow(s) that go the light thru a switch (or not), and then ground the other wire coming from the lights. the limiter, if it is good, will keep your voltage closer to 12vac than the 50 or so put out by the yellows.
sounds like the way you had it hooked up would be a good "sem stresstest" 8O

Great explanation Ned!

There is single line diagram on page 12 of the 2000 owners manual free for down load at Husaberg.com http://www.husaberg.com/fileadmin/user_ ... rGB-00.pdf

Dale

Re: RE: how to wire my headlights - fe501 1996

ned37 said:

connect up your coil color to color, the orange is for your kill switch. blue is grounded to the grounding ring. yellow (2 of them, one is ok if you run standard wattage lamps and both together give you higher wattage capability) is the ac power coming for your lights. your lights will run on ac voltage. it looks to me that your grounding ring (with all the terminals) is sitting under your voltage limiter (the silver block). you need to tie the lead from the limiter into the yellow(s) that go the light thru a switch (or not), and then ground the other wire coming from the lights. the limiter, if it is good, will keep your voltage closer to 12vac than the 50 or so put out by the yellows.
sounds like the way you had it hooked up would be a good "sem stresstest" 8O

Click to expand...

so just to see if I understand correctly:

red to red, black to black, green to green.
blue from stator goes to one of the terminals on the grounding ring
yellows (assuming high wattage) to the yellow wire sticking out the silver block (?)
the headlight positive wire (+) is connected to a terminal on the ground ring
the headlight negative wire (-) is connected to the body ?
and what do I connect the orange from the coil if I dont have a kill switch?

Re: RE: how to wire my headlights - fe501 1996

[/quote]

so just to see if I understand correctly:

red to red, black to black, green to green.
blue from stator goes to one of the terminals on the grounding ring
yellows (assuming high wattage) to the yellow wire sticking out the silver block (?)
the headlight positive wire (+) is connected to a terminal on the ground ring
the headlight negative wire (-) is connected to the body ?
and what do I connect the orange from the coil if I dont have a kill switch?[/quote]

red to red = yes
black to black=yes
green to green=yes
blue from stator to ground ring=yes this is your ground reference for the system.

yellows assuming high wattage to yellow wire sticking out of the silver block=yes this is your voltage regulator. The regulator shunts off any voltage above say 14.5 volts, your stator is putting out around 50 volts and your light bulbs will burn out instantly if it is not connected this way. And then you make a T connection and run it to your light switch, or to the positive side of your head light. If I were you, I would run one leg to the low beam side of the switch, and one to the high beam side of the switch so that in the event that one element burns out, you will have another element with the flick of a switch.

the headlight positive wire (+) is connected to a terminal on the ground ring=NO! You

the headlight negative wire (-) is connected to the body = maybe, but I'd connect it to one of the terminals on the grounding ring, that's what it's for.

what do I connect the orange from the coil if I dont have a kill switch?= you connect it to one side of the kill switch that you are going to buy, and the other wire coming off of the kill switch goes to the grounding ring. And by the way, make sure that the post that the grounding ring sits on is clean so that you will have a good ground.

Did you look at the single line drawing that I linked for you?

Re: RE: how to wire my headlights - fe501 1996

DaleEO said:

what do I connect the orange from the coil if I dont have a kill switch?= you connect it to one side of the kill switch that you are going to buy, and the other wire coming off of the kill switch goes to the grounding ring. And by the way, make sure that the post that the grounding ring sits on is clean so that you will have a good ground.

Did you look at the single line drawing that I linked for you?

Click to expand...

Assuming it will take me some time to get me hands on a kill switch, where still do I need to connect the orange ?

and, yes, I have looked at the link you sent me but I am shamed to say I don't understand those diagrams too well, espicially when they contain many components that I don't have (light switch, battery etc...)

Re: RE: how to wire my headlights - fe501 1996

jacob80 said:

DaleEO said:

what do I connect the orange from the coil if I dont have a kill switch?= you connect it to one side of the kill switch that you are going to buy, and the other wire coming off of the kill switch goes to the grounding ring. And by the way, make sure that the post that the grounding ring sits on is clean so that you will have a good ground.

Did you look at the single line drawing that I linked for you?

Click to expand...

Assuming it will take me some time to get me hands on a kill switch, where still do I need to connect the orange ?

and, yes, I have looked at the link you sent me but I am shamed to say I don't understand those diagrams too well, espicially when they contain many components that I don't have (light switch, battery etc...)

Click to expand...

No worries Jacob, do not be ashamed that you don't understand. We are here to help, and will have you up and running in no time.

For clarification on the single line diagram, it's on the bottom page 31 of section 12. That's the diagram that I think will best fit your needs. You probably should have a tail light if you are riding at night as well. The diagram that you need to use is the one with out the battery.

Okay, the orange wire. There are two types of kill switches, one type has only one wire, and the ground is in the body of the switch, which in turn is grounded to the handle bar. And the handle bar is grouded to the frame via the mounting clamps and then through the bearings of the steering head to the chassis, which is where your grounding ring is attached to. That's why it is important to have a clean surface on the mounting post for your ground terminal ring. On this one wire type of kill switch run the orange wire to the kill switch and mount the switch to the handle bar and you are done.

The other type has two wires, one goes to the orange wire, and the other wire goes to the grounding ring. Okay?

It is also important to note that your voltage regulator, the silver box thingie with the yellow wire coming out of it also needs to have a good ground at the mounting post as well, as that is where the excess voltage from your stator yellow wires are shunted to. And to further clarify, each of the yellow wires from the stator produces around 50 volts A/C power with a 70 watt output.

Okay, it's not necessary to have a switch for your headlight if you don't mind running it all the time. So, you connect a yellow wire from the stator ( or put the two together if running over 55 or 60 watts) to the yellow from the voltage regulator and then on to the headlight. By having the voltage regulator connected to the line that is feeding your headlight, the voltage will be maintained at around 14.5 volts.

Why don't you let us know what head light you are running and what wattage bulbs you are running as well.

Dale

If you don't have a kill switch, leave the orange wire from the CDI completely disconnected until you get one. If you decide not to, you will have to get used to stalling it to stop the engine.

This has helped me

Thanks much!

Hi,

Today I tried to connect my wires according to the instruction given here and unfortunately the same results happened - the light burned out at the first open throttle (half open actually).

I did the following:
red to red, black to black, green to green.
blue from stator to the grounding ring
one yellow from stator to the single wire (also yellow) coming out of the silver component above the grounding unit (rectifier?)
second yellow from stator remained disconnected
orange from coil remained disconnected (no kill switch)
from the headlights I pulled a positive and a negative wires - the positive connected to the yellow from the stator and the yellow from the rectifier (T Connection) . the negative connected to the grounding ring (on a different terminal than the blue)

did I do something wrong here or simply my rectifier is dead ?

pull the silver box and the grounding ring off and make sure the box is well grounded. clean all the contact points with sandpaper and reassemble.
do you have access to a volt/ohm meter?

Yes

I do have access to a volt meter. what should I do with it ?

RE: Yes

Just an idea for you jacob with regards your orange wire (if you dont ride in the rain !!). maybe connect the orange wire into a connector block. then connect a short length of wire from earth and leave it in a safe place. when you want to kill the engine, use the earth wire and touch it to the connector block, this will stop the engine.
If anyone has any reason why this shouldnt be done please say (ie voltage) . im presuming its only 12v (??) so wont be dangerous ?

RE: Yes

oh and obviously if you do do this, make sure both wires are secure and arent going to come loose and wrap around chain/wheel/leg etc etc

To me it sounds like you have connected everything correctly. You probably have a dead regulator.

People often refer to them as "fried" or burned out, but I think that usually the solder on the printed circuit board inside them gets a hairline crack and the regulator just stops working - ie no actual heat.

on-one-wheel said:

If anyone has any reason why this shouldnt be done please say (ie voltage) . im presuming its only 12v (??) so wont be dangerous ?

Click to expand...

Probably not a good idea. The SEM kill circuit appears to run at a couple of hundred volts AC. While I have never actually touched the orange wire or anything connected to it, I bags not being the test dummy!

Also, water or anthing that can make even a tiny bit of a short from the orange wire to ground will have a serious effect on the quality of the spark.

I do have access to a volt meter. what should I do with it ?

Click to expand...

first, before you remove the silver box, use the ohms scale at rx1 and find a good frame ground and measure the resistance from the case of the box to the ground. it should be at zero or no less than a couple of ohms. if it is higher than that, remove it abd clean up the contact areas and retest it.
to test it without frying lamps, leave out the lamp and measure the voltage on the ac scale. at idle it will be around 10 and will increase as you increase engine rpm. if the regulator is good and is properly grouded, it should limit your voltage to about 15.