How many hours on your bergs before rebuilds?

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Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Messages
54
Location
nottinghamshire england
evening gents, iv got an 04 fe450 enduro which has an all singing all dancing rebuild from the ground up 74 hours ago, question is I think my mains are failing, engines getting louder and rumbles terrible on the last ride out! Iv stripped top end and clutch side etc but nothing there so I'm suspecting main bearings which I know are a common fault but think these were swapped out on the rebuild for ball bearings (by a well known member on here in the uk) it had new piston, dual valve spring kit and the crank mod where the oil feed is welded and a channel ground out etc for a stronger crank, surely it should do more than 70 hours? I'v maintained her like a child! Oil every few hours , airfilter every ride etc wouldn't mind but the rebuild cost me £1600
 
200hrs "racing" but if the riding is gentle then a little 450 should go 4-500 hours

evening gents, iv got an 04 fe450 enduro which has an all singing all dancing rebuild from the ground up 74 hours ago, question is I think my mains are failing, engines getting louder and rumbles terrible on the last ride out! Iv stripped top end and clutch side etc but nothing there so I'm suspecting main bearings which I know are a common fault but think these were swapped out on the rebuild for ball bearings (by a well known member on here in the uk) it had new piston, dual valve spring kit and the crank mod where the oil feed is welded and a channel ground out etc for a stronger crank, surely it should do more than 70 hours? I'v maintained her like a child! Oil every few hours , airfilter every ride etc wouldn't mind but the rebuild cost me £1600

I don't hold anything against taffy, I do find some of his work questionable and have had a few issues, but I do realise that a 2004 husaberg won't perform like a brand new bike and they do require more work than most bikes, just needed advice as to what I should be looking at guideline wise for use etc before rebuilds, never owned a bike long enough between rebuilds to know, but I plan on keeping this bike for eternity and possibly adding bergs along the way,

Taffy I can't afford to keep travelling 4 hour round trips to yours to sort the issue out everytime something fails, I might aswell buy a new bike for the time and money it would cost me, your more than welcome to travel to my house and put it right though
 
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I must say Once Again ???? Why People, when will you learn?
 
if I did this engine I wouldn't fit ball mains? give me a call and let's get to the bottom of it OK?

Taffy
 
4 hrs I got from a 1400£ new engine rebuild

Wasn't the bike fault but the person who put his hand in it
If you need help from a mechanic I can pm contact numbers but stay away from taffy
 
I don't hold anything against taffy, I do find some of his work questionable and have had a few issues, but I do realise that a 2004 husaberg won't perform like a brand new bike and they do require more work than most bikes, just needed advice as to what I should be looking at guideline wise for use etc before rebuilds, never owned a bike long enough between rebuilds to know, but I plan on keeping this bike for eternity and possibly adding bergs along the way,

Taffy I can't afford to keep travelling 4 hour round trips to yours to sort the issue out everytime something fails, I might aswell buy a new bike for the time and money it would cost me, your more than welcome to travel to my house and put it right though
 
you have done all the good point oil/air filter maybe check valves once in while
(that's what I been doing on other bike) piston 70/80 hrs on the 450 (crf,rmz) on racing condition for prevention (they didn't actually need it)

you are not going to spend the same amount as before...if top is fine

I am the same as you I haven't put much hrs on it less then 10 but you heard people in here with 500hrs and me with 4hrs

fault happen...loving your bike is the only way to prevent them (oil,air filter, check valves ) ..maybe after you sort this issue the engine could outlast you

...and to add
Best person to ask about bearing is bush he have a good thread in here with good suggestion
On my bike as I send the case to mill I ask if it was possible to fit bigger bearing for realibility and I was suggest not to because when they move production in Austria in 2004 the case went lighter and by fitting a bigger bearing could cause more damage then preventing it
 
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you have done all the good point oil/air filter maybe check valves once in while
(that's what I been doing on other bike) piston 70/80 hrs on the 450 (crf,rmz) on racing condition for prevention (they didn't actually need it)

you are not going to spend the same amount as before...if top is fine

I am the same as you I haven't put much hrs on it less then 10 but you heard people in here with 500hrs and me with 4hrs

fault happen...loving your bike is the only way to prevent them (oil,air filter, check valves ) ..maybe after you sort this issue the engine could outlast you

...and to add
Best person to ask about bearing is bush he have a good thread in here with good suggestion
On my bike as I send the case to mill I ask if it was possible to fit bigger bearing for realibility and I was suggest not to because when they move production in Austria in 2004 the case went lighter and by fitting a bigger bearing could cause more damage then preventing it


Thanks for the info, I checked valve clearance regularly, I'm phone taffy on Monday and discuss some options
 
evening gents, iv got an 04 fe450 enduro which has an all singing all dancing rebuild from the ground up 74 hours ago, question is I think my mains are failing, engines getting louder and rumbles terrible on the last ride out! Iv stripped top end and clutch side etc but nothing there so I'm suspecting main bearings which I know are a common fault but think these were swapped out on the rebuild for ball bearings (by a well known member on here in the uk) it had new piston, dual valve spring kit and the crank mod where the oil feed is welded and a channel ground out etc for a stronger crank, surely it should do more than 70 hours? I'v maintained her like a child! Oil every few hours , airfilter every ride etc wouldn't mind but the rebuild cost me £1600
Had an 08 many moons ago. And had to set valve clearance every 5h.
Shims ftw! ive had two 70 degrees now and they run 300 hours plus racing without failure.


Skickat från min D5803 via Tapatalk
 
Had a chat with taffy, might I mention he took the time to phone me and help, gonna try a few things before we confirm it's the mains, fingers crossed it's not and the bikes good for another year
 
Mine did 79.1HR 3001KM it did the portside main bearing back in Jan 2011 I took it to Orange berg the man who knows best about the problems with mains and just the trick to make them last and she is still going at around 200HR 8000KM now, and I never have had to adjust the rockers much at all.
I have always dropped the oil at around 200 to 300KM and always had lots of metal on the magnet, but now it's real good for the last 1000KM or so and always used DELO400 oil.
 
Mine did 79.1HR 3001KM it did the portside main bearing back in Jan 2011 I took it to Orange berg the man who knows best about the problems with mains and just the trick to make them last and she is still going at around 200HR 8000KM now, and I never have had to adjust the rockers much at all.
I have always dropped the oil at around 200 to 300KM and always had lots of metal on the magnet, but now it's real good for the last 1000KM or so and always used DELO400 oil.
O, there... Dello working fine. Why spend big bucks for motorexsomethin...or other extortion. Did u use synthetic dello or just regular?
 
O, there... Dello working fine. Why spend big bucks for motorexsomethin...or other extortion. Did u use synthetic dello or just regular?

Delo400 API CI4
SAE 15w-40 ISO SYN

I have only had to adjust the rocker gap 2 times and she starts first kick, I don't race it.

Never believed in all the top synthetic oils much, but I would use them in a turbo powered engine.

From all the people I have known who used the first type of Mobil 1 oil type back in the beginning, in cars that had roller lifter problems at bugger all miles up when they buggered up. sure it sounds all good and people think one is mad not to use the best synthetic oil you can, but I don't believe all the hype and spin, but when a oil is tried and true you know it's good.
Castrol made a car engine oil that was advertised full on in the 80's as being the best thing, but from what I believed and seen of it was that it chewed cams and lifters badly, it may of been good in all other ways but not with lifters and cams.

Thinking back to the late 70's and 80's with the Honda XR's when they came out and the oils we had back then, I don't remember any problems with the oil back then but for only using more when it got real hot.

But when it comes to 2 strokes I am all for synthetic oil in the fuel and liked the Castrol TTS the best.

I don't believe in brands of oil or such products, I find what I believe is a good product and stick to it, chain oil, air filter oil etc.

When I blew a main bearing in the berg I knew that that engine was not built correctly, many said it's that crap oil you are using, but no that engine would not rev out cleanly wanting to shake it's self apart like the old Holden red 6 cyl engines would do if not fully balanced them and you rev it past 5500RPM.

I thought it was that the crank was flexing in the berg due to such a big piston, jap 450cc bikes don't have such a big piston and I am sure the piston weighs more because of such, so I believe that the mains need more room to move about like so they don't nip up and try bust out when they flex.
The 650 with the forged bell crank has no such issues with main bearings.
 
Delo400 API CI4
SAE 15w-40 ISO SYN

I have only had to adjust the rocker gap 2 times and she starts first kick, I don't race it.

Never believed in all the top synthetic oils much, but I would use them in a turbo powered engine.

From all the people I have known who used the first type of Mobil 1 oil type back in the beginning, in cars that had roller lifter problems at bugger all miles up when they buggered up. sure it sounds all good and people think one is mad not to use the best synthetic oil you can, but I don't believe all the hype and spin, but when a oil is tried and true you know it's good.
Castrol made a car engine oil that was advertised full on in the 80's as being the best thing, but from what I believed and seen of it was that it chewed cams and lifters badly, it may of been good in all other ways but not with lifters and cams.

Thinking back to the late 70's and 80's with the Honda XR's when they came out and the oils we had back then, I don't remember any problems with the oil back then but for only using more when it got real hot.

But when it comes to 2 strokes I am all for synthetic oil in the fuel and liked the Castrol TTS the best.

I don't believe in brands of oil or such products, I find what I believe is a good product and stick to it, chain oil, air filter oil etc.

When I blew a main bearing in the berg I knew that that engine was not built correctly, many said it's that crap oil you are using, but no that engine would not rev out cleanly wanting to shake it's self apart like the old Holden red 6 cyl engines would do if not fully balanced them and you rev it past 5500RPM.

I thought it was that the crank was flexing in the berg due to such a big piston, jap 450cc bikes don't have such a big piston and I am sure the piston weighs more because of such, so I believe that the mains need more room to move about like so they don't nip up and try bust out when they flex.
The 650 with the forged bell crank has no such issues with main bearings.

The Holden red had issues with the two piece balancer. The outer would shift on the rubber that was supposed to absorb harmonics.
 
The Holden red had issues with the two piece balancer. The outer would shift on the rubber that was supposed to absorb harmonics.

All engines have harmonic issues as some point in the rev range, the Holden red blue and black 6 was at 6200RPM even when fully balanced you can feel it complain.
The Ford 250 6cyl harmonic issues came in at 5600RPM.

So with the single cylinder bikes is there an issue as such ?

The harmonic balancer is not just to do with the rubber ring bit.
 

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