high revs with choke ?

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youSuck

youSuck

Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
16
This is a multi-part question, more accurately, this post contains many questions.

I have an '06 FE650e and I am currently in process of installing a jet kit from Mr. Lineweaver. No questions there (at this point), but it made me think that this is a perfect time to resolve another issue. The issue is: when starting the bike with the choke the bike revs about 15% (guessing) higher, than idle, for about 10 seconds and then revs about 300% higher, than idle, after that. The engine is obviously (an assumption of mine) not warm after 10 seconds, but the bike will not run when I attempt to ride it with the rpms running at standard idle (it stalls). I start it up again and the bike runs if I hold the choke slide out, manually, about 50%. To get the bike in a state to ride i have to either hold the choke manually at 50% for about 10 min or hold the choke at 50% for about 1 min and then adjust the idle to a much higher position than standard for about 9 min.

I read, in another post, that it could have something to do with the choke (a '98 berg). Could it have come from the factory improper? The gentleman that i purchased the bike from adjusted the carb before i picked it up . He stated that it was running too lean. Which i know the jet kit will fix. So, while he was adjusting the lean issue, could he have caused the issue with the choke?

Thank you in advance for any advice provided.

Casey
 
Hi Casey,

Check the inlet manifold for air leaks, sounds as though it could be pulling air.

Regards

Sparks.
 
could you tell us were the clip is on the needle,pilot jet size & were you set the fuel screw?
 
pre Mr. Lineweaver's kit the (please excuse my terms i will miss reference) main needle clip was set in the 6th position from the bottom, the main jet was a 160 and the other brass screw (do not know what that is actually called) was a 38. the air screw under the plastic air inlet was 1/2 turn out and the screw that sticks through the bowl was 1 1/4 turns out.

i will put the carb back together now and see if the jet kit fixes the issue.

could it have anything to do with the throttle position and the accelerator pump adjustments?

And I will make sure that the air inlet is sealed properly.

thanks
 
You will want a 48 pilot at least 2turn's open on fuel screw,hope this helps
 
You may want to install an aftermarket fuel screw at this time. If you have had the fuel screw out, make sure not to loose the tiny washer and rubber o-ring seal. This will cause a vacuum leak/lean condition.
Here is a link to Dales instructions for installation of his kit.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... structions
 
can't agree with boss i'm afraid. you have stated that the screw under the carb is out just 1/4 turn. here is your problem. it needs to be out 1.5 turns from closed and then tested with a warm engine NOT i say NOT on the paddock stand but real testing. just blipping the throttle whilst in first gear. best result should be 1.5 turns out plus or minus 1/2 a turn.

turned in = lean.

you needed choke just to keep it running you were therefore lean.

the other jet (in the plastic) was set as for about 60 PAJ which is correct for a 38PJ.

this has nothing to do with the APJ.

you say that the needle is in the 6th clip from the bottom. which is just the second position from the nearest end. correct? this is the second leanest position. please forward the needle code on the side if you can. it will say OC*** or OB***. this shouldn't have anyhting to do with it but please take the time to let us know?

regards

Taffy
 
i just finished putting the Lineweaver jet kit in and followed the instructions that were in another post by someone and now i forget whos. Anyway, i have followed the directions given and everyone that posted back gave great advice apparently. The jet kit contained the 48 that boss referred to and it had the clip at the "4th" position. The screw in the bowl is now 1 1/2 turns out. When i get back from the hardware store i will let you know what the characters on the needle read.

By the way, the bike runs spectacularly now. Gone is the horrible cracking when off the throttle. Gone is the ultra high revving when the choke is on. The choke issue makes me feel so much better you people have no idea. Now i can start the bike and walk away knowing that the oil will get warm enough to flow before the revs get high (when i am actually riding)

Thank you all very much for the correct (in my case) information.

Casey
 
Taffy said:
can't agree with boss i'm afraid. you have stated that the screw under the carb is out just 1/4 turn. here is your problem. it needs to be out 1.5 turns from closed and then tested with a warm engine NOT i say NOT on the paddock stand but real testing. just blipping the throttle whilst in first gear. best result should be 1.5 turns out plus or minus 1/2 a turn.


Taffy
Click to expand...


Hey Taffy, I think you may have had a pint too many on that one. He said 1 1/4 turns out from what I read...


pre Mr. Lineweaver's kit the (please excuse my terms i will miss reference) main needle clip was set in the 6th position from the bottom, the main jet was a 160 and the other brass screw (do not know what that is actually called) was a 38. the air screw under the plastic air inlet was 1/2 turn out and the screw that sticks through the bowl was 1 1/4 turns out.


OOPS!! :shock:

Just messing around Taffy, You know I have to have my Northwest buddy Ricks back.. :D
At least I think I read it that way.. :oops:
 
i had a DVR and a DVS but finished with a DMS on C2. for you, get the clip to C5 and it'll be the same.

so pointed end down start counting from the top down 5 of 7.

regards

taffy
 

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