Help with changing a front sprocket seal FE570

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hoosie5seventy

Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
201
Location
southern hemisphere
Front+Sprocket+Bush.JPG


23 49030023000 CYL.ROLL BEARING NJ205 1
24 0760324571 SHAFT SEAL RING 32X45X7 BSLNBR 1
25 0770020220 O-RING 25,12X1,78 NBR70 1
26 54633014100 SPACER BUSHING 12MM 1
27 50033029013 FRONT SPROCKET 13-T x
27 50033029014 FRONT SPROCKET 14-T x
27 50033029015 FRONT SPROCKET 15-T x
28 59033034044 SCREW 10.9+SPRING W ASHER



thanks to davo for the image above. i've just removed the shaft seal ring (24). it wouldn't just pop out so eventually had to just rip it out piece by piece but made sure there's nothing left in there.

are there any tips to putting the new one in? this is quite different to all the jap bikes i've had so don't want to mess it up! it looks like a case of just easing it slowly till it pops into the groove, but just want to make sure there isn't a step i'm missing like removing the roller bearing (23) and putting the seal in there first....

got a new o-ring as well (25). i've heard about the dirt tricks washer but figured i got 7000 miles before the seal began leaking so i think the standard washer is working okay. keen to hear opinions on that too though.
 
You just tap the new seal in with a large socket. Slightly small than the outer circumference of the seal till it bottoms out. I would use a new spring washer and bolt, they have a tendency to loose tension if used a second time I have been told.
 
Just did this same job on my FE450, had to pick out the remains of the old "O" ring.
As the above states just lightly tap it into place with a socket that's slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the seal. Just get it lined up staight and square and don't force it.
No need to remove the bearing 23. And just slip the "O" ring on a few mm then let the spacer 26 push it into place as you re-assemble with the sprocket, washer etc. Place a little theadLoc on the bolt will stop it coming off. And don't over tension/torque the bolt.
I replaced my washer with the "Dirt tricks", but it had already done over 100yrs and been off and on a few times.
Whole job is easy with a little know how, and shouldn't need doing again for another 100hrs.
 
thanks robatk
i think what threw me is not realising the shaft seal ring (24) is all one piece. so the whole thing needs to come out, not just the rubber seal built into the steel ring.
 
and............ still stuck!

SNC00031_zps2a9d09cb.jpg


i've been trying to get this shaft seal (part no. 24) out for a few hours now but it looks like there is a special tool required?

best i could come up with was get the small bit of an allen key under the seal, snap a multi-grip wrench on the rest of the allen key and try to tap it off but the seal is wedged in too tightly.

googled around, can't find others mentioning ways to get it off. any advice? i don't have a trailer so can't get the bike to the mechanics so looks like no ride for me tomorrow... :(
 
DSC_0175.jpg

If you do not have a seal puller: To remove seal, drill small hole and carefully insert a drywall screw just a few threads until it grabs....(reproduced from http://www.enduro360.com link above).

thanks bogeyman, that looks like the trick!
 
You're welcome. I did mine earlier this week using that same technique. Took me longer to get the rear wheel off in order to slacken the chain than it did to actually replace the seal.
 
Another way to remove this seal is to lever it out like this. Sorry I don't have any photos of me doing it, but I have used the technique on KTM's and on my FE570. I've tried to show you how to do it by drawing on your photo. It works best if you remove the gear lever to get more room. So the idea here is to hock the end of the screw driver under the seal and gently lever it out using the block to protect the engine case and to lever off. Don't try to get it out in one big push on the lever. You need to move the leaver and block around, gently levering in as many place as possible of the top 1/2 of the seal. It will start to move slowly and then pop out once you have loosened it.

SNC00031_zps55af54f6.jpg


It's also a lot easier to do this job if you remove the chain guard and chain slider from the swing arm.

I'm not a fane of drill and screw technique, as it would be very easy to get metal shavings it the bearing.
 
You better keep an eye on that c/shaft ...looks like its getting boogered. Did you see Lostriders post on ADV?
 
1Trak Mind said:
You better keep an eye on that c/shaft ...looks like its getting boogered. Did you see Lostriders post on ADV?
Click to expand...

just checked posts by lost rider and lostrider on advrider with no luck. got a link for it by any chance?


1Trak Mind said:
You better keep an eye on that c/shaft ...looks like its getting boogered. Did you see Lostriders post on ADV?
Click to expand...

thanks for the help guys, finally got the bugger out today with the screw method. shoved a rag behind the seal first and just as well because there were plenty of steel shavings near the bearing even though i tried to drill carefully.

that countershaft spline does look bad in the pic above, mine has a bit of wear but not that much. i did notice the sprocket has a tiny bit of sideways rocking kind of movement even after tightening the bolt up with the stock washer. can't help feeling this isn't right, and would lead to faster wear of the splines.

i read around and some guys reckon a bit of movement on katos is fine, others say it's not good.. and i heard guys mentioning a dirt tricks washer. does this eliminate the bit of rocking movement of the sprocket or it that normal? never checked it when i first got the bike new!
 
Hmm, I don't like the sound of the slight sideways play.
The Dirt Tricks washer is better than the stock washer, but they are only a spring washer i.e. it holds the sprocket at a constant pressure against the O ring. I installed the Dirt Tricks when my seal was leaking (also got their cam chain tensioner at the same time to save on freight).
It won't stop sideways movement/play. That sounds to me like a buggered bearing or worn output shaft. But I'm no expert, hopefully someone with more skills can advise.
 
definitely no free play in the shaft itself, its just the sprocket. checked with a mate of mine who bought his berg at the same time but only done 2000km so bugger all wear... he gets about 0.5mm of rocking on the sprocket, mine is about the same so i think it's all okay.

very very happy i've run a cush drive hub since new after looking at lost rider's worn splines. 8O the mate mentioned above has his on order now.
 
An idea about using the screw method.

Load the back of the seal with grease before drilling. The grease should allow for easy removal of all the steel bits without fear of them falling into the bearings.

I haven't done this repair, and hope to not have to for 20kmi. ;-)
 

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