Help! I've got a snowball!

So my little project is starting to snowball into a big problem. I have a leaky clutch cover so I ordered a new gasket from MotoExotica. It is supposed to be here tomorrow. I thought I'd drain the fluids and have a look-see around behind the clutch cover. Well, one thing led to another and I thought it would be a good idea to inspect the clutch pack. I "discovered" that Husabergs, unlike my KTM's, don't have a nut on the clutch, just a circlip. Cool! Of course I had to take it off and pull the clutch basket off. Two things happened then 1) I saw the timing chain gear whiz to a stop and, 2) I thought "Oh sh*t". I hadn't thought about the fact that the cam was timed to the crank via the clutch basket and the intermediate gear. Crap! No big deal I guess, I read up on here about how to go about timing it correctly again. I first tried to pull the valve covers off and shine a flashlight down to make sure the cam lobes are pointing up. No matter what angle I tried, I just couldn't see the lobes. This is where I screwed up again somehow. I re-installed the clutch basket and put the kicker back on to aid in turning the crank to TDC. For some reason the kicker didn't want to turn. Well, I pulled the gear with the kickstarting mechanism behind it off. For the life of me I can't understand how it is supposed to go back together. Does anyone have a diagram as to how the spring etc. is supposed to go behind that gear? So basically this thing is snowballing because of my curiosity and me not thinking ahead here.

So, 1) is there a diagram for the kickstarter assembly? How does the spring interact with the ratchet mechanism?

2) I discovered that my intermediate gear (bottom timing chain gear) does not have the single dot on it. How do I time this thing if it doesn't have a dot on it? I have the two on the bottom (crank) gear. I plan on removing the head to make sure the cam lobes are pointed at 1&11 at TDC.

I'm so stupid sometimes! I just had this thing out for it's inaugural ride last weekend and other than the oil leak, it performed excellent! Kicked first or second time when hot! Then I went and screwed it up 8O

Thanks guys!

RE: Help! I

made me laugh because i once did the same thing.

taffy will tell you "look in the doc"
but my experience is:
1) is there a diagram for the kickstarter assembly? How does the spring interact with the ratchet mechanism?
if you look at the parts beakdown diagram, the pic of the spring is backwards to how it should be mounted, but if you hold the k/s mech in your hand, its obvious how it goes. pull the gear off the shaft so that you can see the pawl (keyhole looking piece) with the small spring (i like to pack some grease around the pawl so it won't fall out so easy while i'm installing it), install the return spring straight extension into the assy and the poke the end with the hooked part of the spring into the hole and twist it so that the hook goes over the case part in front of the hole where the shaft goes. once its in but not yet seated, put the k/s lever on aa bit and turn the assy ccw til you can seat the pawll assy against the semicircular stop. then push it in and seat it and gently release the ccw pressure. the pawl should be puhed in by the stop. put back on the gear, etc and be gentle with it when you put back on the cover.
2) I discovered that my intermediate gear (bottom timing chain gear) does not have the single dot on it. How do I time this thing if it doesn't have a dot on it? I have the two on the bottom (crank) gear. I plan on removing the head to make sure the cam lobes are pointed at 1&11 at TDC.
if there is no mark and you're sure, maybe a po put the gear on backwards and the mark is inside?? if no mark anywhere, you'll have to pull the cam cover and do the 11 and 1 oclock levelling with a ruler act to establish cam tdc.
while you're in the cam cover, take a critical look at the cam follower bearings for vertical play.

Right on, thanks for the help on the kick starter mechanism.

Yeah, the intermediate gear (bottom cam chain gear) definetly does not have any marks on it, much less a dot on one of the teeth. Definitely would rather not have to pull the rocker cover off if I don't have to. I'll take a picture of the whole area behind the clutch cover for y'all when I get home from work.

racer187x said:

Yeah, the intermediate gear (bottom cam chain gear) definetly does not have any marks on it, much less a dot on one of the teeth.

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Even without the dot on the gear, you should be able to align the keyways and count teeth as per the diagram in the DOC (after you are sure you are at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke).

log

what log says is the way to go.
but i still think you ought to pull the cam cover so you can see what shape your rockers and bearings as well as the auto decomp assy are in.

Alrighty. A couple things have happened since the I went out and tried again with your guys' help. Firstly, I discovered (not the first time) that what I was looking at was in fact correct, ie. the cam lobes were in the low position. I just didn't know what I was looking at. The rocker cover is still on but the valve covers are off and I'm looking with a flashlight. The clutch hubs are out of the bike and I turned the large valve train gear in the case until the intakes started to close and the exhausts started to open. I set the gear in that position and marked it with a permanent marker. Next, I turned the crank with a wrench and using a zip tie as a guide (down the spark plug hole), rotated the piston to all the way extended (should be TDC). I should be lined up, correct? Once again, there is no single dot on the gear at the bottom of the timing chain. If they are in the correct position then I will reinstall the clutch basket.

Which brings me to my second problem. I followed Ned37's instructions but turning the assembly counter clockwise (ccw) allows the hooked part of the spring to catch on the teeth of the large gear inside the case. I found that I could rotate the assembly clockwise and have the pawl (key) line up with the sledge. I think it should look like this: Yes?



So I mount the bearing and the gear on, the pawl is compressed so that the gear goes on properly. I put the clutch hub on and the kickstarter on and rotate it via kickstarter. I can get about up and down with the piston once then the kickstart assembly locks up, not from compression, but I can feel it is locking up mechanically. I don't want to force it because I can see this area is starting to get chewed up a little bit and don't want to cause further damage:

While I'm at it.....

The black marks on the timing chain gear are from my permanent marker. There is no punch mark underneath it

Hi Dave,

I'm only going to try and help you with the valve timing here. First off, let me tell you I feel your pain, I did the exact same thing. However, in my case I had no "dots" on either gear for my 01, so I ended up taking to the dealer to have the mech reset the timing.

Logjump is absolutely correct in being able to count the teeth on the cam chain gear from the woodruff key, and this will definitely work if you have some way to hold that gear while you take the nut off and then re torque it. Taking it off with an impact is easy, it's the re-torquing part that could prove troublesome.

Before I go any further, I have to wonder if Ned is right and somebody put the gear on back wards, I'm not sure if the id of the gear is tapered or not, so that it only goes on one way. However, it is possible that the gear has a dot on it on the reverse side, who knows maybe it just got stamped on the wrong side.

Would it be worth the trouble to drop by a rite aid or sav on and buy a cheap little plastic dental mirror and have a look see on the back side?

I think there might be an alternative to removing the nut on that gear, albeit a bit more work. But hey, you're in it now aren't you!!

This will require the removal of the rocker box. If you do remove the rocker box, mind the little 0 ring that seals the oil passage from the head to the rocker box for rocker arm lubrication. I'm pretty sure it's on the left rear corner of the rocker box.

If you refer to section #3 of the 2001-2003 work shop manual (you can dowload it from the Husaberg.se site) in section 9D figure 9V 1 & 9V 2, it shows how to set the cam in relationship to TDC. The hard part is knowing that you are EXACTLY on TDC, as there is some movement of the crank as the piston approaches TDC, reaches it, and passes it, and little if any perceptable movement of the pistion unless you are using a dial indicator which could put you off a gear tooth at least. I suppose that's why they cam up with that diagram that's in the doc http://www.husaberg.org/modules/gallery ... C02816.jpg so the average joe could do it without the TDC dial indicator. Unfortunatley they didn't start putting the enging locking bolt in until a later year models.

The first thing I did when I got my bike back was to mark the gears. The second lesson I learned was that anytime I do anything with my motor I make sure it's on TDC. In fact, I always leave my bikes on TDC of the compression stroke to keep the valves closed, and keep tension off of the valve springs.

I hope this helps,

Dale

Which brings me to my second problem. I followed Ned37's instructions but turning the assembly counter clockwise (ccw) allows the hooked part of the spring to catch on the teeth of the large gear inside the case. I found that I could rotate the assembly clockwise and have the pawl (key) line up with the sledge.

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duh, i meant 180* clockwise (senior moment- been getting a lot of those lately )
according to your pic, it doesn't look like you are fully in place, but it could be the pic. try rotating the assy with the k/s lever w/o the gear and watch the action of the pawl. it should go in and out depending on where you are in the travel. think about how far your lever normally goes before it grabs. then put the gear on w/o the clutch basket and roll it thru. if it doesn't bind, its not a prob with the kicker assy.

I find it best to install the shaft/pawl/spring/gear all together. With the kickstart gear on the shaft, the pawl is held correctly inside the gear. If you try and put the gear on last, it pushes against the pawl and the gear does not drop all the way down (inward toward the engine).

If the kickstart assembly moves upward, the pawl will fall off that metal guide shoe. The metal guide shoe is what cams (lifts) the pawl away from the gear inner teeth (humps on the backside) so the gear runs free during normal operation. When the kickstarter returns, the bump shown in your picture is what stops the final travel of the kickstarter.

I put the parts in as a group (some tilting required) and push down on the spring (centering it) as it goes into the case. Once it's partway down, turn the shaft clockwise about about a third of a turn (kickstarter lever needed to work against the spring tension) then it will drop all the way down. Return the lever to it's home position. Try it a few times to be sure!

Note: The kickstart gear must be about 2 mm below the clutch basket gear before you put the sidecover on. If not, then it has come out of place and you must start over.

Your cam drive gear is missing the punch mark. On my engine anyway, this gear cannot be put on backwards since it has an extended shoulder on the backside. This shoulder pushes up against the camchain sprocket.

The people on this side of the pond use the 5:00 & 7:00 for tdc,
maybe that is why we drive on the right too, right?

racer187x i have spoted a few thing that you should address before you continue!

Call us this is what we do.

Rick....

Could you elaborate for the rest of us as to what you see. I am just curious and trying to learn as much as I can from this since Racer187x has provided us with such good photos.

Thanks.

Good idea, let me try this too:
Plain bush/sleeve on clutch hub shaft (needles gone, remainder of cage)?
Different bolts holding on shift selector and related parts (spring stud)
Lack of taper on crank end for seal entry (not on the earlier bikes)?
Crankshaft/piston not at TDC (double punch marks would point to the top)

Neil_E. said:

Good idea, let me try this too:
Plain bush/sleeve on clutch hub shaft (needles gone, remainder of cage)?
Different bolts holding on shift selector and related parts (spring stud)
Lack of taper on crank end for seal entry (not on the earlier bikes)?
Crankshaft/piston not at TDC (double punch marks would point to the top)

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I'm going to wager that the bushing instead of the needle bearing on the clutch hub shaft is from a '01 model as I've read that the '01s had the bushing instead of the needle bearings.

The crankshaft is not at TDC in that picture, hopefully I haven't gotten that dense yet!

I'll give BOSS a call.

drdfblackm,

He has the iwis cam chain split roller(NO GOOD) The cam chain is also to close to
the water port so it should have the new chain slipper this much i will share.

Thanks for all of your help! I got everything back together, timed and kicking. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the clutch cover and case really well and put the new gasket on along with some 3-bond (Hondabond). I filled it up with a little over a liter of oil and wiped the bottom of the motor off clean and called it a night. This morning I went into the garage to make sure the clutch cover is holding the oil (at the start of this thread I heavily suspected the clutch cover of leaking) but I found a drop starting to form on the bottom of the engine! To me, there is only one reason for oil to be on the bottom of the engine and I think that is through the case halves. Please tell me this isn't so! This bike has been "dormant" for 4-5 years prior to a few weeks ago. Oil and water had been drained out of it. Any ideas of where else there could be a leak? I REALLY don't want to split the cases on this.

racer187x

Look around your countershaft sprocket & were the swing arm meets up to the cases,
there have been a few bikes with crack's in this area.

racer187x said:

Thanks for all of your help! I got everything back together, timed and kicking. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the clutch cover and case really well and put the new gasket on along with some 3-bond (Hondabond). I filled it up with a little over a liter of oil and wiped the bottom of the motor off clean and called it a night. This morning I went into the garage to make sure the clutch cover is holding the oil (at the start of this thread I heavily suspected the clutch cover of leaking) but I found a drop starting to form on the bottom of the engine! To me, there is only one reason for oil to be on the bottom of the engine and I think that is through the case halves. Please tell me this isn't so! This bike has been "dormant" for 4-5 years prior to a few weeks ago. Oil and water had been drained out of it. Any ideas of where else there could be a leak? I REALLY don't want to split the cases on this.

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More than a liter of oil is probably too much oil to have in that motor. In fact there was a tech bulletin that came out from Husaberg in November of 2006 that states that the oil level on all models 450-650 should be at the bottom of the sight glass when cold, and in the middle of the sight glass when at operating temperature.

Have a look around the weep hole for the water pump. It's on the clutch cover behind the radiator hose. You can get a good look at it from the front of the engine.

Did you happen to notice that little 0 ring on the water pump shaft when you had the clutch cover off? This little guy can be a pain in the neck, and I usually change it when I pull the clutch cover off. You have to be very careful when putting the cover back on, as you can damage this little 0 ring kind of easy. I usually put a little grease on it to make sure it will slide into the inner race of the water pump bearing. My apologies for not mentioning this before, but, I was more concerned with your cam/crank timing.

These 0 rings have been known to be bad on some new bikes, and have leaked oil on the showroom floor. There are also posts here on this site about people who have overfilled their motors with oil and this made this leak as well.

So hopefully, you find your leak at the weep hole, and if so you'll know what's causing it. You may find that you may have overfilled the bike with oil and that's what's causing the leak. And hopefully it's not leaking where Boss described.........

Best of luck,

Dale