Have the bergs had any valve issues?

Anyone had any valve issues with their husabergs? Perhaps certain years have had more issues than others but in particular the 06, 07, 08 bergs?????

My 2001 & 94 501 used to need a valve job about every 70 or 80 hours. Pretty frequent valve adjustments, maximum interval was about 15 hours on those bikes. But, my 2004 goes about 30 -35 hours with hard use, and 40-45 hours just trail riding between valve adjustments.

It seems like when production moved to mattigoefen that most of the earlier valve issues disappeared.

Why do you ask? Have you been seeing some problems?

DaleEO said:

My 2001 & 94 501 used to need a valve job about every 70 or 80 hours. Pretty frequent valve adjustments, maximum interval was about 15 hours on those bikes. But, my 2004 goes about 30 -35 hours with hard use, and 40-45 hours just trail riding between valve adjustments.

It seems like when production moved to mattigoefen that most of the earlier valve issues disappeared.

Why do you ask? Have you been seeing some problems?

Click to expand...

Intakes move more than the exhausts on the new Husabergs, but still not much. Depending on how it is ridden, like Dale said, the valves hold very well. Like any four stroke, extended periods of high revs is the enemy.

I check mine about as often as Dale. The last two times. the exhausts had not even moved, and the intakes were just starting to get a bit tight, but I could still wiggle the .12 gauge in.

I have an 05 FE 650 and adjust my valves every 20 hours or so. Just thought I would let you know that you don't need that .12 gauge. My dealer told me how the pros do it. First you snug them down then back them off 1/4 turn. Thats your .12. It's a lot faster and easier this way. Just be sure the center screw ends up at 1/4 out after you torque the nut down. My bike runs great with no issues

1/4 turn? not 1/6th then? mmmmmm? oh and welcome to the site pollo!

there have been a lot of issues with inlets on the '01-'03 models. they tulip if you rev them regularly. the strength of the valve spring is too much for them combined with the earlier cams. the cams got softer in '04 but the springs didn't.

regards

Taffy

pollo said:

I have an 05 FE 650 and adjust my valves every 20 hours or so. Just thought I would let you know that you don't need that .12 gauge. My dealer told me how the pros do it. First you snug them down then back them off 1/4 turn. Thats your .12. It's a lot faster and easier this way. Just be sure the center screw ends up at 1/4 out after you torque the nut down. My bike runs great with no issues

Click to expand...

"Just be sure the center screw ends up at 1/4 out after you torque the nut down". Now that's the real trick with that method isn't it? How ARE you going to know whether or not it has moved? If you do a search you will find there was a whole thread dedicated to which method was best.

To sum up, the 1/6 method that Taffy mentioned, and that others use is great, unLESS, you have at one point overtightened your lock nut, like me. Then when you tighten the lock nut the adjuster stem turns and tightens the lash. And even if the adjuster doesn't spin, the lash will actually increase ever so slightly when you tighten the lock nut to the proper torque.

The 1/6 method set's the lash properly as it takes the concaving of the adjuster foot, and the subsequent convexing of the valve stem into account. However, you still need to use a feeler gauge of whatever thickness to make sure that the lash remains the same from the point where you initially set it, to after you torque the lock nut. What I found with my bike, and the number of hours I had on it, was that a .004" gauge was the correct thickness to use to verify nothing had moved from the point of the initial set, to after torquing the lock nut.

All the same your input is appreciated.

Another thing to consider, is how much grit you are pulling in through the carb vent tubes. This grit is the main enemy now with the later model valves. This ultra fine grit that get's into the fuel via the vent system passes easily through the jets and ends up in/on the valve seats and acts like a lapping compound that wears the seats/valves over time.

There are several vent filters on the market, but, a piece of foam from an old air cleaner will help this cause.

A good case in point was a thread done my a few members a while back who had gone to Utah to ride some KTM, and Husaberg versions of the snow bikes. The operators told them they had put 200 hours on the bikes and the valves needed no adjustments. Why? No dirt was entering the carb b/c they were riding in snow.

Thanks for the input Taffy. So many people have been talking about the 1/6 turn out that I did mine again today at 1/6 instead of 1/4 out. I mark the point of 1/6th out with a piece of tape then take it out aproximately another 1/6. The tork of 11nm brings it back to my tape mark. If not then I do it again. I pretty much have it down though.
Pollo