Fork Seals - Big Job?

oldberger · Jun 11, 2005

Not been on for a bit, I've been to Istanbul to watch my beloved Redmen win the European Cup.

Anyway, before my historic trip I noticed the fork seal in the L/H fork was leaking badly, oil all over the floor. I thought about trying to remove the dirt but thought sod it I'll have a go at replacing the seals.

Just wondering if its a big job, any special tools required and also can anyone recommend any specific replacement seal types?

oldberger :roll:

Parsko · Jun 11, 2005

Oldberger,

There are a few WP manuals in the downloads section that are pretty good. I would recommend starting there. Recently I played with the top end of my forks (springs, oil, spacers), but not the bottom. I am quite curious myself about the job. It has been said that it isn't too difficult.

-Parsko

wildbill · Jun 12, 2005

oldberger said:
Not been on for a bit, I've been to Istanbul to watch my beloved Redmen win the European Cup.

Anyway, before my historic trip I noticed the fork seal in the L/H fork was leaking badly, oil all over the floor. I thought about trying to remove the dirt but thought sod it I'll have a go at replacing the seals.

Just wondering if its a big job, any special tools required and also can anyone recommend any specific replacement seal types?

oldberger :roll:

I have changed fork seals on my bike a 96 FE 501 that has the inverted forks and also on my streetbike witch has the regular forks. All it takes is time and attention to detail. Did you bleed your forks? Alot of the time dirt gets up in there and that causes them to leak. Try that first. Good luck.

oldberger · Jun 14, 2005

Thanks for the info gents.

oldberger :roll:

scoot · Jul 2, 2005

Just done my fork seals for the first time. Actually the job isn't too bad. When i emptied the oil i had over 500ml in the left and much much less in the right and the leaky seal was on the left :? So now they have the same amount of oil in. TIP..... get a short lenght of 2" plastic waste pipe and splice in two, this is just held on the fork tube and used as a sliding hammer to knock the bush and new seal into place.

wildbill · Jul 2, 2005

I did something very much like that but I didn`t use a sliding hammer. What I did was get the seal in place and tap it in. There was a big flat washer and I used it for a guide. The seal slides in fairly easy so you shouldn`t have any problems- either way will work. Take care.

Parsko · Jul 18, 2005

I was going to start a new topic, but I can use this one...

My left fork is leaking too. Has since it was shipped to Atomicpunk before I bought it. I have the new seals and scrubbers. I just called the local KTM dealer, and they said it would cost me $178 to replace the seals!!!! Hence our nickname for them R.E.A.R., cause they always get you there when you go there. Anyway, does this seem like it makes sence, $178?

Anyway, now I think I will do it myself. The only trick is the seal installer. Scoot or Bill, it's that simple? Just a 2" piece of PVC cut square and sliced into 2 will be enough to install the new seal?

How about disassembly? I've read the WP manuals, but was curious if there were any tricks?

Thanks,

-Parsko

PS- Does anyone have the exact seal installing tool available to take a picture of, or have a pic in there gallery? I might think about machining one...?

scoot · Jul 18, 2005

I think the proper tool is made of aluminium, 6" long and the same diameter of the bottom fork. It really is'nt a hard job tbh, the plastic pipe does the trick easy. If in doubt take photos when you strip the fork leg so you can get the spacers the right way round when you put it back together.

Chris

wildbill · Jul 19, 2005

You would take the fork apart basically the same way as your other forks. Should be a bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. Don`t forget the other things you need to do also and don`t forget to rub the lamp :lol: .

Parsko · Jul 19, 2005

Ha ha bill, ha ha :?

wildbill · Jul 19, 2005

Parsko said:
Ha ha bill, ha ha :?

Basically the front forks come apart the same way. Watch out for the snap ring above the seal itself. Make sure you get the seal below the snap ring groove. Overall not a hard job. Caught you a sleep didn`t I? :wink: Good luck

Parsko · Jul 28, 2005

So, I thought I was having one of those "I shouldn't be doing this" moments, but...

After reading the WP manual, I realized that I was on par. So, I pulled the forks to do the seal. Decided to drain the oil in the leaking fork. Decided to pull the spring. Decided to remove the lower bolt. So on and so forth. Well, I must say, I got stuck. Could not get the darned seal out. Just read the manual, and realize that one needs to heat the outer tube, then simply tug the seal out by hand. It must be true cause I read it in the manual, but I simply don't believe it. Oh well, I will try that tomorrow night, see if it works. This is what everyone else has to do right??? Should I bother pulling the inner tube out of the axle clamp? Or should I leave that installed and just do the seal? Also, the plunger that screws into the plug in the axle clamp. This seems like it is going to be a bugger to tighten due to there being nothing to hold on to, since the plunger is down inside the tube.

Any thoughts???

-Parsko

PS- Now that I am in to it, I am not so intimidated. But, this is tricky. I hate it when heat is needed!!! Oxy-Acetalene or propane???

wildbill · Jul 29, 2005

When I changed my fork seal after I removed the spring and oil from fork leg I slide the dust cap down the fork leg so you can remove the snap ring ( it is hard to spot is almost flush). Once you remove it slide the snap ring down the leg also. Now remove the bolt that is on the bottom of fork leg ( on my bike a 13mm). Once it is out remove the damper rod from fork leg. The next thing is compress the leg all the way (as far as it will go) now pull straight out, may have to do this more than once. The fork will separate (keep track of shims and spacers keep them on fork leg and the same order). Next if you have snap ring off is take a broad bladed screwdriver and pry the old seal up and out. Hope this helps.

Parsko · Jul 29, 2005

New seal is in. Used the PVC pipe technique. Seal savers installed! New impression of job:

EASY.

-Parsko

oneloudskunk · Jul 29, 2005

Parsko,

Just read this post. Sorry I didn't check it sooner. My fork seals were leaking as bad, if not worse, than yours before Allegheny. BP & others have informed me that cleaning them is better than replacing. I guess the replacment seals have different tolerances than factory. I cleaned my fork seals using BP's "business card method" before Allegheny & haven't had any leaks since. The manuals recommend cleaning the dusters after every ride. Business cards work great for this as well. Both BP & another KTM rider friend have velcro "seal savers" (highly recommended).

Just wanted to add my 2 cents, as usual. Remember, preventative maintenance is always cheaper, faster, & more cost effective than failure replacement/repair. At least that's what I tell my customers.

Rob

Parsko · Jul 30, 2005

Too late for that buddy! But, I only rebuilt the leaking one, so the other I will leave as is until after the ride. It really is an easy job after all. Once you know how to do it, with the right tools, it could feasibly take around 2 hours for the hole job, on-the-bike to on-the-bike.

Also, when I pulled things apart, I found some sort of debris, like a piece of plastic tape or some sort of thin piece of place right above the seal. I am guessing this was the problem. Can't understand why it was there, someone must have dropped it in there when assembling or topping off oil.

Hey, after this job, other than the rear shock, I can say there isn't anything on a dirtbike I have not rebuilt. It's kind of a good feeling, tell you the truth.

-Parsko

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