flywheel lightening

Hello all. I want to say that this is a great site with a wealth of knowledgeable folks and I hope one of you 'Berg'ers have an answer for me. Please allow me to bore you with a short history lesson;

I recently installed a Rekluse Pro in my 06 Fe650. I love it. I really didn't feel like I needed an auto clutch, but since I trashed my ACL in the right knee and I wear knee braces, I have extreme difficulty reaching and using my brake pedal. I felt that I needed the LHRB, so auto cluch it is.

The A-clutch/LHRB setup has has dramatically increased my speed. I ride twisty trails and now that I have precise control of the rear brake, It is full speed ahead.

I have opened up the exhaust end cap to a larger size output, and the respected BOSS (great guy) in Portland, OR has jetted this bike, but I need more power. I spoke to Rick (BOSS) about higher compression pistons (AKA E-starter problems), or other performance options, but I have yet to tear into the motor.

We all know that these 650's are stump-pullers with loads of bottom end power and you can't hardly stall them. That leads me to believe that they have a fair amount of flywheel weight. Now, specifically for the Berg 650, Rekluse reccomends using addit'l tungsten-carbide balls for more weight thus holding power. I'm running 24 out of 27 TC balls. The clutch works well, but all that extra spinning weight has "tamed" down the bike a little bit. Not that it is a bad thing, it is easier to steer with the front wheel on the ground, but as I get faster with every outing......I am starting to want more.

Who needs more than a 650 you are asking yourself?? Well, with my gear I weigh around 320 lbs (145 kg). I'm not some large morbidly obese land mass, I'm an athletic, NFL lineman type. I also realize that there are amazingly fast riders out there, but I feel that I ride really fast for a fat boy. I outgrew my WR426 quickly trying to keep up with my buddies (170 lb'ers on 450's), but now I have an Equalizer.

Sorry about the long story.......fiinally the real question;

Since the Rekluse and all the Tungsten balls added extra spinning weight, what do you think about lightening my flywheel to return the bike back to stock feel, or even snappier?
I don't want to eliminate any vibration dampening/absorption and harm my motor. I would most likely get a different flywheel to modify.

Will the 501 flywheel work? ...Is it lighter? Am I insane?


Thanks in advance

-LOU

Hi Lou,

There is no real way of lighting flywheel with out sacrificing reliability, plus the Kokasan requires the thin strip of metal, this is used to trigger the spark.
If the flywheel hub was lightened the magnets would be more susceptible to higher frequency vibration which could lead to the magnets coming loose.
Regarding the 501 flywheeel I think the 501 only used the SEM system in which case this will not work with the Kokasan stator.

Regards

Sparks.

RE: Re: flywheel lightening

Looks like you are ready for an upgrade! http://www.jbsracing.co.uk/

Yeah, I've already been drooling over that REALLY BIG bore kit. I told myself that I was going to keep this bike for years, and that I would step up to 750cc when the time comes. Looks like I'll have to "suffer" for a while longer with the power I have. I am no where near riding this bike to its full potential yet. I could always lose a little weight too, but in true American fashion, I just want more.

thanks all

LOU

std flywheels are fairly light to start with,don't think lightening it more is possible.

couple of things i learnt from what the fast guys do ,to get the engine to spin up faster are;
from engine hardware
lighter crank & composite con rod
this was mentioned in the earlier pages of the thread (main bearing failure must change)

adam lees
no longer uses electric starter
he removes the starter clutch gear,as it is spinning all the time while the motor is going,in other words less mass for the engine to spin up.

probably not what you wanted to hear,but thats what i know
..weed..

big lou

there is no way you can feel those tungsten carbide balls over steel. sorry mate coz i enjoyed reading a very well thought out opening post. we're down to grams!!!!

in my opinion boss, well known for his views ion jetting has juiced up your carb and it has lost it's edge i'm afraid. i think if you think back, that that is the real change.

regards

Taffy

All good answers. As I have admitted, I don't know everything about my bike but I know without a doubt that the auto-clutch setup has tamed it down a bit. I put about 800 miles on my bike before I put the Rekluse in, so I considered myself used to the bike and therefore I felt a change with the clutch. As to whether or not it is the Tungsten balls vs. steel, or just the whole addition of the auto-clutch mechanism (it is heavier that the stock setup) I don't know. I'm certainly not very willing to give up what power it took or whatever power I think it took and go back to normal. It might be an auto-cRutch, but I am rocking the terrain since installing it.

I will probably follow some other threads and attemp to open my exhaust a little more, and then challenge myself to jet the carb. I am a fair auto/truck machanic and an awsome metal fabricator, but the carbuerator is not my cup of tea. I will have to pack a lunch and take my smart pills when go to work on my carb. I know it makes a large difference and is most likely my problem.

thanks all.

LOU

Lou
if the engine tamed down after installing the auto clutch maybe the clutch is slipping?
I know that Björn Nygren had to remove the auto cluch on his desert rallye 650
because it was slipping. as for a lighter flywheel trail tech has lighter flywheels
for KTM which should be the same as husaberg
link http://trailtech.net/motorcycle_flywheels.html[/url]

later VIKING

Trail Tech can help you. And as far as BOSS goes, I trust my bike and life with his advice and knowledge. To this day, my success at riding and Racing has yet to be compramized by any misleading or bad mechanics from BOSS. Basicly what I mean is in my professinal opinion, if BOSS said it, it's probably right. If he's wrong, he'll admit it, although his pre and thurough thought pocess, not to mention years of wealth in knowledge of the Husaberg, is usually right on target.

The clutch doen't seem to slip, but it could be. I remember when "lugging" it down you could feel every power-stroke in the bars as the bike lunged forward as it left divots in the ground with every revolution on the tire. I know it doesn't engage that early anymore, but I feel it lock in slightly off idle. When I ordered it, I told them I was a monster and I shared my concerns of my extra weight causing extra slippage, so I bought 3 addit'l TC balls. I think I am going to put them in....27 of 27 will be tungsten and my clearance is also set on the close side. If it still slipping, that will stop, or nothing will. I will check for any difference and hopefully notice improvement.

Yeah, I seemed impressed by BOSS. I met him once riding, and spoke to him a couple of times. I can't attest to whether or not his jetting is right or wrong. He jetted it when he sold it to a gentlemen (Wayno on this Forum) and I bought it used from him. I didn't ride the bike pre-jetted, but Wayno lives in Bend, around 3600ft and was jetted for around that elevation. I live in the valley and ride lots of woods and the jetting may not be perfect for my elevation, but it runs great and has plenty of power for the woods.....sometimes too much.
The occasions I could use more power is when I go over to China Hat (5500ft, and Wayno's back yard) and I'm blasting through the berms in 4th or 5th. It's just a little sluggish coming out of the corners. I could shift down a gear but the gear-split seems just a little bit wide and when I do shift down, It's a short burst (1 to 2 seconds) of high rpm and time to shift again. I'm sure I could be smoother and go into, through, and out of the corner at all the same speed, but I'm not there yet.


LOU

there is a very long thread on the proper set-up for the rekluse clutch. it may have been improved by the factory in the intervening 28 months but it's still a good guide. go into search at the top of the page and use 'rekluse' as the sunject and 'Taffy' as the author.

you shouldn't need 27/27 you should need about 1/3 to 1/2. you must have the correct plate gap and the correct shim and spring set-up.

regards

Taffy

Alternatively, the Clake

http://www.learntech.com.au/clake/testimonials.htm

http://www.learntech.com.au/clake/

A pic at the bottom of this page,

http://www.ma.org.au/Content/MA/RidePro ... set_up.htm

the clake- clutch and brake in one
The Clake is a revolutionary device that combines the clutch and rear brake into one finger operated lever. You can still use the brake and clutch independently of each other.

The advantages include:

Cuts stalling from rear brake lock-up
Lets you use the rear brake while your right foot can't reach the brake lever
Cuts rear wheel chatter under braking
Better brake feel through finger lever
Better bike control- you can stand on the pegs to shift weight around without the need to find the rear brake.
Plus

Makes rear slides child's play
Better traction during race starts
Use the rear brake on rough terrain while dismounted
Transferable between bikes

Cheers
Steve

can it be used on a bike with a hydralic clutch?

couldnt find the ansa but from the photo it would appear to need a bike with a cable clutch.

Cypher,

As I understand it, its designed for hydraulic clutches and brakes and splices into the rear brake line so you can keep the pedal. i don't know anyone who uses it, and I've only seen pics, but the testimonials are impressive.

You are supposed to be able to adjust the overlap between brake and clutch to fine tune, its fully adjustable. Have a close look at the pic and you'll see two mc covers.

Many/some GP riders use a thumb brake, developed originally for Mick Doohan after he broke his leg in 92 and had his right ankle more or less fused.

Steve

yeah, missed the two covers first time rnd.

saw something similar a few years ago where there's a pivot half way along the lever, could have been an early version of this.