Fitting scotts damper

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Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
231
Location
Vancouver Island BC
I just got a Scotts damper for my 03 fe400 and am having trouble. I wonder if anyone has encountered this problem and can offer advice.

Check the picture to see what I mean. The link arm on the underside of the damper is hitting the steering stem nut before the damper sits low enough to bolt it to the mounting bracket supplied with the kit.

I called Scotts who said "oh you need the replacement steering stem nut" I just go that and its a plain nut (not domed like stock) but the link arm still hits the top of the steering stem. Should I just fit spacers under the mounting bracket?
 

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loz16h said:
Should I just fit spacers under the mounting bracket?

That depends on how much space you have to make up now that you have the replacement stem nut.

I helped them develop the sub mount system as I had the same problem as you did. I just pulled the "plain nut" off of my 01 to make the sub mount work on my 04. On my 04 it is really close but works.

I have heard of others having your problem and they just ended up putting one washer under each side to get the clearance.

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I know it's not the best picture but I think you can see that it is a close fit.

Dale
 
RE: Re: Fitting scotts damper

Did you get the under bar mount because you are a tall rider. I know some prefer them for even different reasons but I love my over the bar mount. And the bars stay where I am comfortable with.
Pollo
 

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grind or cut the domed top off the nut ?

pic of cheap top mount before black paint. I welded the stem onto the steering head so I didn't have to re surface the inside of the airbox. prolly should just have ued some kind of clamp. got damper second hand off ebay. scratched ones go for 200 USD
 

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Yeah I'm a tall rider so the rise is good.

Dale, do you have spacers under your bracket? the underside of your bracket is approx level with the top of the steering stem and this makes all the difference. Look at my photo, the bracket is sitting lower. I have approx 1/2" of thread on the steering stem sticking out above the top clamp. Even 1/4" would be too high for the damper to fit. I need 5/16 min rise on the bracket to get over the steering stem.

Nice one Bushie, that looks like a murder scene! :D The black paint will help :wink: I got a weld on post too and I wonder what you mean about resurfacing the airbox after welding. D'you reckon it will rust or flake off some metal?

Could I use spacers under the damper I wonder. Guess I'll call Scotts on monday.
 
black paint helped a bit, now it looks like a brothel :D

the inside of the airbox gets scaley and bits of paint flake off from the heat. if you don't want the scale and paint in the engine the inside of the airbox needs painting.

the domed nut won't suffer too much if you grind it down ? perhaps it could be done even so it doesn't resemble a crime scene :D

on mine there are spacers between that flat plate and the bar clamps

hey vancouver island, nice place
 
Nice one Bushie. I like the practical approach, it's about go not show right? It's a stark contrast to the dainty little stick I got with the kit from scotts. 2 little welds is all i'm gonna get. Guess it'll hold tho.

Hey Dale, in case you missed this.

loz16h said:
Dale, do you have spacers under your bracket? the underside of your bracket is approx level with the top of the steering stem and this makes all the difference. Look at my photo, the bracket is sitting lower. I have approx 1/2" of thread on the steering stem sticking out above the top clamp. Even 1/4" would be too high for the damper to fit. I need 5/16 min rise on the bracket to get over the steering stem.

:lol:

Cheers!
 
loz16h said:
Nice one Bushie. I like the practical approach, it's about go not show right? It's a stark contrast to the dainty little stick I got with the kit from scotts. 2 little welds is all i'm gonna get. Guess it'll hold tho.

Hey Dale, in case you missed this.

loz16h said:
Dale, do you have spacers under your bracket? the underside of your bracket is approx level with the top of the steering stem and this makes all the difference. Look at my photo, the bracket is sitting lower. I have approx 1/2" of thread on the steering stem sticking out above the top clamp. Even 1/4" would be too high for the damper to fit. I need 5/16 min rise on the bracket to get over the steering stem.

:lol:

Cheers!

Hey Loz,

I didn't miss it, figured I let you give scotts a call and see what they had to say.

So let me ask you this, how much thread is sticking up above the non domed nut they sent you?

Dale
 
Fair enough. I forgot to call them today :?

Anyway, I have 1/2" of thread above the top clamp and approx 5/16" of that is nut. the other 3/16" is steering stem poking out above the nut. Even if I had no stem showing above the nut the link arm would still hit the nut.

Here's a pic of my stock setup with riser blocks and the scotts nut fitted.

It looked to me like you had spacer blocks like mine under your scotts block or is that the top clamp casting I see? It looks a little higher than mine.
 

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Hi Loz,

This might seem like a dumb thing to say, but isnt your mount upside down in the first pic?

I havent seen one of these in the flesh, mine is a top mount with the headstem clamp on pin, but it appears that if it were the other way up you would have about 3/8" clearance over the standard nut, and then your standard clamps go on top of that.

the reason I say this is that the sub mount does not appear to have provision for the bars to clamp to it, so you'd have to use your stock bar clamps anyway?

could be wrong tho..... just had one last look at your first pic and im sure its USD, also your link arm shaft is not over the head stem nut where is should be, it loos as if they'd line up when the mount is flipped and you align the bolts that go through the damper into the mount.

Azza
 
No spacer blocks under my sub mount.

Call Scott's and see what they have to say. Be sure and have the part number off of the submount to make sure you have the right one.

Also, if you can, see if you can get the KTM part number off of your triple clamp as well. This could make a difference too.

Dale
 
Yeah I know what you mean Azza. I kept wanting to turn it over but the bolt holes are counterbored from one side only so up is up. And yes the stock barclamp is bolted to the scotts mount via threaded holes in the mount.

You're right about the position being off in the pic but that's just me holding it wrong for the pic. If I moved it so the damper axis is centered on the stem axis i'd gain a little clearance but the nut on the underside of the link arm still hits the stem.

Calling Scotts today. Guess I could send 'em a link to this thread :lol:

Cheers guys
 

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Thanks Aaron, Scotts said do the same, or spacer under the top triple clamp, or spacers between damper body and mounting bracket. I'm gonna go for the last one and use a few washers. Nice simple fix too. Kind of obvious now. :roll:

Scotts also thought that the condition I have is unusual for a Berg so likely not an issue for later 450's etc.

Thanks for all the replies and I hope this helps someone else in the future.
 
loz16h said:
Thanks Aaron, Scotts said do the same, or spacer under the top triple clamp, or spacers between damper body and mounting bracket. I'm gonna go for the last one and use a few washers. Nice simple fix too. Kind of obvious now. :roll:

Scotts also thought that the condition I have is unusual for a Berg so likely not an issue for later 450's etc.

Thanks for all the replies and I hope this helps someone else in the future.

It appears that there are inconsistencies in production of the steering stems, or at the very least how much stem ends up above the the clamp. Cheeseber had similar issues as you did and he and I have the same bike!

The juice will be worth the squeeze though. The rise in the bars is nice if you are like me and 6' 2", and stand a lot. And! you don't have worry about catching the damper in your throat like I did once a few years back. That hurts a lot too. You will also be able to run your bar pad over the bar clamps with out worry of the damper over heating in tough conditions.
 

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