no problem.
take the exhaust and rocker inspection covers off. take the ignition cover off and pull the spark plug.
turn the engine with a spanner clockwise. watch the inlet go down (opening) and come up and close. at this point the ignition marker will be near 12 'o clock. get the marker in line with the allen screw hole that is at the top . you're now at TDC on the compression stroke.
remove the top engine breather and the whole rocker cover itself. remove the silver cap in the left end.
look at the cam lobes. they should be pointing down at 5 and 7 'o clock. now look at the flywheel marker very carefully and where it is, look at the camwheel as it comes out of the housing - make a scratch on the camwheel level with the top of the cylinder head. this is a reference point. you need to be spot on. i put a bolt in the top ignition cover hole with a teardrop piece of metal on the head of the bolt. it DEADLY accurate!!!!!!
remove the small bolt in the back of the camchain tensioner and CATCH the bolt and spring which will PING out if not careful.
turn the engine counting the links. your new chain will have too many so you'll need to remove some new ones. i use a grinderette and punch. i have a photo of an old and new camchain in my gallery. you can count the links there if you like?
do this next bit with a trusted mate
turn the engine bolt with the spanner again and with someone on the other side of the bike get them to look for the split link as it comes around. what you want is the chain at the top at 12 'o clock and NO pressure from the camshaft. you want it to be happy to stop there without moving. if it wants to move - turn the engine a few revs until it is happy to sit there.
now the tricky bit.
you undo the split link using cloth around the camwheel to stop losing the SL. now remove the link. when viewing from the left feed the new chain from the back of the bike onto the camchain and put the SL in and everything properly. remove the rag.
matey turns the engine very slowly CW rembering that the engine will fight to go both forward AND back due to the cam lobes. so the spanner will want to go both ways. he must control the engine.
in the meantime the new camchain will go down to your left and the old chain will come up to your right. by placing the thumb and index fingers of your left hand around the back and on the new and old chain you can let the two pass under your thumb and finger as you throw old chain over the back and new chain down the front. keep the chain pressed against the wheel so it doesn't jump a tooth.
eventually the SL will come around and it's time to undo it from the old and into the complete new chain. fit the tensioner. reverse the engine the amount of turns it went forward. find the TDC + scratch on camwheel etc. it should look the same OR better still, the camwheel should have tilted back a little due to the new chain not being stretched. you can work that out!
reverse everything you've done.
if you think it's wrong you'll need to work out how to move the cam whilst holding the chainaway from the teeth. this is a 2-man job!
good luck.
regards
Taffy
