FE570 Won't Keep Running

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Joined
Oct 31, 2012
Messages
63
Location
Australia
I have to use the throttle to start the bike, other wise it won't start.

It will not idle without the throttle being applied, no matter how wound in or out the idle adjustment screw is.

Throw some ideas at me please.
 
You have no flash codes ?
TPS is out of adjustment ? Normally the ecu wont fire the injector if it senses ( via the TPS ) that the throttle is opened when starting.

If you have no flash codes then check the bulb in th MIL (efi light) to be sure.

If you pull the idle knob out does it make a difference ?

Does it ride okay otherwise ?

What year is it ?
How many hours ?
Any background info ?
 
You have no flash codes ?
TPS is out of adjustment ? Normally the ecu wont fire the injector if it senses ( via the TPS ) that the throttle is opened when starting.

If you have no flash codes then check the bulb in th MIL (efi light) to be sure.

If you pull the idle knob out does it make a difference ?

Does it ride okay otherwise ?

What year is it ?
How many hours ?
Any background info ?

I get one long flash as it starts.

The idle screw changes the idle I'm holding throttle, but if I let go of the throttle it dies instantly.

Rides okay I believe other than that.

2011 FE570
30 hours

Have had major running dramas but seem to have fixed it with new fuel line and a fuel pump. Was running fine last week. Might try new fuel tonight and see if it makes a difference but I am doubting it.
 
Long flash is normal. You didn't kink an internal fuel line when you changed the pump ?

If you disconnect the tps and hold the throttle open when you crank it you should see a injector pulse, ( the ecu will see 0 degree throttle opening and fire the injector) perhaps you got some crud in there and its affecting the injector at small pulse widths ? Should be a fine mist spray.
 
I'll give that a crack tomorrow.

Put some fresh 89 octane in, nothing. Getting 9 short now.

Fuel is coming fine out of the tank, don't have a pressure tester though.
 
Once started and warmed, then everything is good?

Have you tried starting with with pulling out the idle knob? in colder climes, pulling this 'choke' starts my bike instantly. Without it, takes a longer 3-5 second crank.
 
Soon as the throttle is released it dies, adjusting the idle does nothing to keep the bike running.
 
Just to make sure everyone's talking about the same thing - you've also tried PULLING on the idle adjuster, right? Like a normal choke knob?

And also a +1 on berglsmerg mentioning the TPS (throttle position sensor) - the TPS might have to be calibrated? There's a procedure to test the TPS ... you connect to the TPS sensor harness with a voltmeter and are supposed to get a certain value at certain throttle positions: http://husaberg.org/electrical/15640-70-deg-single-spark-throttle-position-sensor.html

"A functioning tps should put out approx. .6 volts when the throttle is closed and up to 4.7 when the throttle is wide open. "
 


This is how I interpreted the testing procedure and wiring diagram in the service manual, without using a breakout box. ($$$$$$$:()

Wiring colours: Purple= MAP signal line Pin 6 ECU, pin 2 on MAP plug
Black = sensor ground Pin 24 ECU, pin 3 on MAP plug
Blue = sensor power Pin 13 ECU, pin 1 on MAP plug

Between pin 6 and pin 24 at the ECU should be in the range of 2.31v min and 2.99v depending on ambient barometric pressure.

MAP power supply 4.9v-5.1 measured from pin1 to ground- battery minus ( ignition on )
MAP Signal line pin 2 MAP plug and pin 6 ECU = or < 0.6 ohms

MAP Sensor ground pin3 MAP plug and pin 24 ECU = or < 0.6 ohms

Infinite resistance between MAP pin 2 and 3

Infinite resistance between MAP pin 2 and battery – terminal

Infinite resistance between MAP pin 1 and 2

Have a look to see if you MAP plug is secure first, its a PITA to access so the tank may have to come off again.
 
Soon as the throttle is released it dies, adjusting the idle does nothing to keep the bike running.

We hear you about 'turning' the idle knob not doing anything helpful.

Also, make sure your idle knob is not pulled out, if you didn't intend it to be pulled out.

The idle circuit air bypass may be blocked. I think you'd need to pull the TB to get full access.
 
We hear you about 'turning' the idle knob not doing anything helpful.

Also, make sure your idle knob is not pulled out, if you didn't intend it to be pulled out.

The idle circuit air bypass may be blocked. I think you'd need to pull the TB to get full access.

Yeah pulling the idle knob makes it a lot worse. So you think it is not 'disconnecting' properly?
 
So what you're saying is that pulling the knob out makes it harder to start and you have to use more throttle to keep it running ?
 
So what you're saying is that pulling the knob out makes it harder to start and you have to use more throttle to keep it running ?

Yeah, the choke is letting in more air, impossible to start the bike with it out.

Can only just get it running with it in and blipping the throttle while pressing the starter button.
 
mine had a dirty air filter, had to crack the throttle a little and let go for it to start .. yours is nice and clean and correctly oiled right? not the full solution but might be a puzzle piece

tps calibration would be something i'd look into ... after making sure the MAP sensor is right
 
I messed up the connector to mapsensor once but the bike was still running smooth at idlespeed.I only noticed that something was wrong because Fi lamp was blinking.
 
Yeah air filter is clean and oiled from a service 5 or so hours ago.

I will definitely look into the TPS and MAP sensor Sunday.
 
I have to use the throttle to start the bike, other wise it won't start.

It will not idle without the throttle being applied, no matter how wound in or out the idle adjustment screw is.

Back when I had a starting issue similar to this, I replaced the injector assembly. After that, right as rain. I also added an in-line fuel filter too.
 
I would re check your fuel line and fuel filter and pump clamping/crimping/kinks, you may be losing fuel pressure somewhere in the tank.

What fuel pump did you buy?

Has the in-tank fuel filter been sitting dry for an extended period of time?

I replaced my fuel pump assembly with a used oem one that had been sitting dry and the fuel filter material had actually clogged my injector. Fortunately there is a pre filter just before the injector.
I was able to open the injector and remove the filter material and other fine debris. It's been running much better ever since.
You'll need to remove tank, and air boot to access the injector if all other fixes (TPS calibration) fail.
 

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