Hi all,
I have a 2011 FE570s with a recently appearing low idle symptom/issue that I just can’t figure out. Any of your help/input/ideas would be greatly appreciated!
On a summer trip last year to Wyoming the bike began to show a slower than normal idle and had difficulties starting, especially when hot. The hotter the engine and ambient air temps got, the worse things were. The idle speed once the engine started would be low. No amount of adjustment of the idle speed screw would help bring it back to the 1,800rpm range. The symptoms got progressively worse as engine hrs increased, to the point where no-start issues were common, and sitting at a stop light became nerve racking to say the least.
Interestingly, the bike would bump start “ok”. Sometimes, bump starting was the only way I could start the bike and continue on, making sure I didn’t attempt to sit at idle and stationary for too long otherwise it would stall. When riding at any speed above idle, the bike feels “normal” (to me at least), as far as power availability and delivery goes.
I’m the second owner, have had the bike since nearly new, and have been fortunate enough to put nearly 400hrs on the bike while riding BDR style trips here in the US. I’d consider myself reasonably mechanically savvy, and have a fairly good understanding of the bike and it’s known issues etc. Most of the recommended mods to “fix” these issues I made as soon as I bought the bike.
Bike currently has 410hrs on the motor. No rebuilds have been done. I’ve checked the valves every 100hrs and adjusted them when needed which hasn’t been much, they’ve barely moved. I’m pretty anal about servicing etc and have performed oil changes, and oil analyses every 1,500 – 2,500 miles. Nothing glaring has shown up through these services and oil analyses reports.
In addition to valve lash checks/adjustments, I’ve also performed a leak down test every 100hrs. All leak down tests have given a 2.5% to 3% (Most recent) result, which I’m astonished at actually – It speaks volumes as to how well these motors were made.
To paint a full picture, I’ll give as much info below related to mods I’ve made, relevant service work I’ve recently done and what I’ve tried so far for fixes…
Additions/Mods:
When I adjust the voltage up, all the way to it’s physical limit at the adjustment collar, I’m reading around 0.802v. This helps the symptoms a little. Adjusting down, beyond 0.601v takes things in the other direction – starting is near impossible.
I haven’t investigated electrical aspects yet, beyond replacing the spark plug and ensuring there’s enough amperage and voltage from the battery. Also, I haven’t explored changing the cam yet either (thinking about the possibility of an issue with the auto decompressor system on the cam).
Any thoughts/ideas would be greatly appreciated! I’m going nuts not being able to rely on what once was a no hassles (and rip roaring) steed in the stable.
Cheers,
Phil
I have a 2011 FE570s with a recently appearing low idle symptom/issue that I just can’t figure out. Any of your help/input/ideas would be greatly appreciated!
On a summer trip last year to Wyoming the bike began to show a slower than normal idle and had difficulties starting, especially when hot. The hotter the engine and ambient air temps got, the worse things were. The idle speed once the engine started would be low. No amount of adjustment of the idle speed screw would help bring it back to the 1,800rpm range. The symptoms got progressively worse as engine hrs increased, to the point where no-start issues were common, and sitting at a stop light became nerve racking to say the least.
Interestingly, the bike would bump start “ok”. Sometimes, bump starting was the only way I could start the bike and continue on, making sure I didn’t attempt to sit at idle and stationary for too long otherwise it would stall. When riding at any speed above idle, the bike feels “normal” (to me at least), as far as power availability and delivery goes.
I’m the second owner, have had the bike since nearly new, and have been fortunate enough to put nearly 400hrs on the bike while riding BDR style trips here in the US. I’d consider myself reasonably mechanically savvy, and have a fairly good understanding of the bike and it’s known issues etc. Most of the recommended mods to “fix” these issues I made as soon as I bought the bike.
Bike currently has 410hrs on the motor. No rebuilds have been done. I’ve checked the valves every 100hrs and adjusted them when needed which hasn’t been much, they’ve barely moved. I’m pretty anal about servicing etc and have performed oil changes, and oil analyses every 1,500 – 2,500 miles. Nothing glaring has shown up through these services and oil analyses reports.
In addition to valve lash checks/adjustments, I’ve also performed a leak down test every 100hrs. All leak down tests have given a 2.5% to 3% (Most recent) result, which I’m astonished at actually – It speaks volumes as to how well these motors were made.
To paint a full picture, I’ll give as much info below related to mods I’ve made, relevant service work I’ve recently done and what I’ve tried so far for fixes…
Additions/Mods:
- FMF Q4 Pipe (re-packed at 311hrs). Stock header.
- Husaberg ECU “competition” map (Apparently installed by the first owners dealer when the bike was bought new)
- Trail tech map select switch (stock, mild, “wild”)
- Smog equipment removed
- Shorai LFX Lithium battery
- California cycleworks fuel pump
- Golan inline fuel filter (between injector and fuel tank)
- Dirt Tricks hydraulic cam chain tensioner
- PDM60 electronic fuse box (To distribute power to heated grips, LED lights, GPS and USB charger etc), wired independently to the battery (POS+), but using a frame ground.
- There are no FI flash codes.
- Checked fuel pressure which is in spec at 55psi. I was running a CA cycleworks pump but decided to change it for a new one. Still 55psi, no surprise there.
- Checked Golan inline filter (between fuel tank and injector) – No debris whatsoever. (Worth mentioning that I removed the small, grey, pencil tip shaped fuel filter from the injector coupling when I bought the bike).
- Replaced “in tank” fuel filter.
- Replaced fuel pressure regulator.
- Replaced the injector.
- Performed a valve clearance check – A couple of the valves were ever so slightly out of spec on the high side. I’ve adjusted them within spec and the primary symptom of low idle remains.
- Removed the carb and gave it a thorough cleaning, paying lot’s of attention to the circuit which is part of the idle system. Checked the idle speed screw for correct operation - all looked good.
- Replaced the intake boot as the old one was showing some signs of cracking around the clamps which hold it to the carb.
- Replaced spark plug – The previous one had a hairline crack in the enamel.
- Battery checked, cranking voltage is more than acceptable. I also tried a few engine starts using an extra start battery, in parallel, in addition to the Shorai.
- TPS voltage checked and was where I’d left it from many ride hours ago: 0.601v.
When I adjust the voltage up, all the way to it’s physical limit at the adjustment collar, I’m reading around 0.802v. This helps the symptoms a little. Adjusting down, beyond 0.601v takes things in the other direction – starting is near impossible.
I haven’t investigated electrical aspects yet, beyond replacing the spark plug and ensuring there’s enough amperage and voltage from the battery. Also, I haven’t explored changing the cam yet either (thinking about the possibility of an issue with the auto decompressor system on the cam).
Any thoughts/ideas would be greatly appreciated! I’m going nuts not being able to rely on what once was a no hassles (and rip roaring) steed in the stable.
Cheers,
Phil
