Engine died 2002 Fe650

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Joined
Oct 5, 2006
Messages
381
Location
Belgium
My engine died on my just aquired husa 650 fe, it's a 2002 model, and when i bought it I already expected it to need a rebuild this winter, but the problems came quicker then expected, well, it were a fun couple of hours on this beast anyway :D

As for the problems, I was 'practicing' wheelies on my Husa, 3rd gear, open the throttle and up she came, nice and easy. Until i had a loss of power, the engine didn't stall, just no response when i opened the throttle. Then suddenly the rear tire locked up, like when the entire engine siezes, the engine stalled, but 1 second later everything was ok again, and another couple of seconds later there was the loss of power again.
I barely made it home (about 2 km) and when i reached my driveway it died, and i can't get it to start anymore. The engine wasn't extremely hot (by feel) so I don't think it overheated.

When I drained the oil only about 0.5 litres came out of the engine. The oil has just been changed about an hours driving time ago. So where did my oil go, there were no oil leaks, and the exhaust fumes were cristal clear, so I don't think she was burning up oil? There were no metal flakes in the oil also.

What's my plan of action now, what do I check first to narrow down the reasons for this problem?
 
Clean the carb, adjust the valves, new gas, new oil, new spark plug, then let us know.

What part of Belgium are you from?
 
any noises? may have snapped the crank pin.

sorry!

regards

taffy
 
Re: RE: Engine died 2002 Fe650

Hi,

I'm inclined to agree with Taffy something bottom end parcially sized big end, with the front end up in the air lack of lubrication. As for loss of oil if it hasn't burnt it you have lost it. With the bike up vertical has it blown it out of the engine breather?.
When we raced the RC30's back in the eighties the standard sump wasn't deep enough so when cranked over for some time it would starve the crank of oil pressure and bang. so we had to fit deeper sump and baffles. Is the big end pressure fed or just oil splashed ?.

Sparks,
 
@ Le frog, i'm from Bruges, Flanders

@ Taffy & Sparks there were no unusual noises coming from the engine, and I checked the oil when I changed it out and didn't find any metal particles.

About the eninge blowin out the oil through the breather, I was 'practicing' wheelies, and I suck at it, so the front was up for 5 sec max at a time.

About the crank pin, i don't think it broke? I took the spark plug out (wich looked perfect) and turned over the engine with a wrench on the ignition thingie. The piston goes up and down and the valves appear to function normal. So i don't suspect something wrong with the crank, or am I seeing this wrong?

When turning the engine with a wrench on the ignition thing, is the piston supposed to go up and down smoothly? Now when i turn it around, just when the exhaust valves start to open, the pressure builds up (no spark plug in) and then when i pas a certain point the piston 'falls' back down, then the pressure on the wrench is the same until the exhaust valves start to open again. Is this normal or is the piston supposed to go through all the strokes with the same amount of pressure on the wrench?
 
Hi,

Turning the engine over without a plug in yes you will feel resistance from time to time this is pressure is on the valve springs as the cam comes into contact with the followers.
There must be something a miss for it to lock up the back wheel. with not owning a Berg yet I wouldn't know how much oil they take when you said you drained out .5lt how much has it lost?. If it's going to in bits this might be a good time to do it, would be interesting to know what has caused this though.

Regards

Sparks.
 
I made a mistake in the last post, the resistance happens only when the INLET valves open, for the rest of the cycle there is no resistance, shouldn't there be resistance when the inlet valves open?
 
Hi,

I have not worked on many four stroke singles and not at all on the husaberg but you generally find resistance on both inlet and exhaust valves when they are opening but it all depends on the cam profile to how much resistance is felt. If the compretion is good then it safe to say that they are working correctly. I think they use timing gears on the Husaberg not a cam chain. Check the pinions for missing teeth and check the valve timing is correct. I think you said in your previous thread that it had just been serviced or something do you know exactly what they did?.

Regards

Sparks
 
belgique

used to go in a bar once called the belgique. it was in monchengladbach i think near RAF wegberg in germany. a house of sin and ill repute i may add......

you have probably got just one broken exhaust valve spring. go into the gallery, go to 'lineaweaver' and he still has some photos of snapped valve springs.

indeed, this happened to someone here just in the last few months. anyone else recall when? the thread?

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
indeed, this happened to someone here just in the last few months. anyone else recall when? the thread?

regards

Taffy

Hi all,
I believe you will find the other thread was by faktor- his friends 06 650 had a broken exhaust valve spring at 4000kms.
 
Update!

Adjusted the valves, checked the carb, new plug, new oil and fuel, but still no go? Any suggestions, I don't think there is anything mechanical wrong with the bike, piston goes up and down, valves appear to be working normally, no metal particles in the oil, no strange noises when cranking the bike, no strange resistance when kickstarting. I think the problem lays with the ignition.

I read the other topic currently on the forum about another 2002 husa having ignition problems and not starting and there 'sparks' advised to check the ohm between red and black and black and green on the coil.

Red and black is 2799, black and green is 123, is this good or bad? I also tried to measure the VAC between black an red when starting, but how exactly does one do this, I connected my multimeter to the red and black wire, and then tried to kickstart it, but it gives no reading? What am I doing wrong?
 
belgique

you should cut 'n paste the question straight into that great thread. sparks will see it and answer it for you.

regards

Taffy
 
the origiinal problem goes back to the wheelie! Have you done a compression test? i think you may have bent a valve, hence why you feel more resistance on one valve, more than the other.
Next suggestion is the valve timing.. it may have jumped a tooth, have you rechecked the timing.
 
wont start

Hi,

Sounds like you are still having problems, your test between red and black is good but black and green is a bit low should read 165 170 Ohms.
When you are testing for peak voltage not all meters have this fosility.
You need to test the intensity of the spark remove the plug and put a piece of wire in the plug cap and rest this about 10mm from the head turn the engine over and if the ignition is good it will jump this gap with no problem, let me know how you get on.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: wont start

Ok, I myself was desperate to get my bike started, I had everything checked like you, did all I could to make it start FOREVER, until I took it to Berger's house (twice, note) and he showed me how to kick the bastige.

So, I don't want to insult you or your left leg, but are you sure you have the right kicking technique?

It took me a little while to acquire the muscle memory.
 
RE: wont start

belgique

youre right i think you have an electrical problem. something moved in the wheelie and earthed out your system. try starting it with no tank or seat on. could even try kickstarting it in the pitch dark to look for a stray spark.

otherwise you've got to get around the bike with a multimeter and check all connections and circuits.

my husey is an '02 and the electrics were bloody awful. please read my pertinent electrical points in the doc.

regards

Taffy
 
RE: wont start

Sorry for the late reply but was out of country for two weeks.

I'll try and check all the things you guys suggested and keep you guys posted!

@ Lefrog, my starting tecnhnique: Turn the engine over until i got compression, open decomp push it just past compression, let the kick come up all the way, give it one full turn of the throttle, and then kick it with throttle closed, started perfect every time i did it this way. Used choke when cold no choke when hot. So I don't think this is the problem.
 

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