Electrical Question #2

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Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
24
1994 501 FE

Does anyone know what the purpose of the Blue wire that runs from the Stator to the voltage regulator is this a power lead or a ground ?

Thanks
John
 
Blue wire

Hi, SIRR1.... My '98 schematic shows blue from stator as ground for the enduro USA, enduro with/without turn signals. Other models show brown as ground, and blue going on to other components. Electricals not always same frome year to year...!!! or model to model...!!!
 
Thanks FC501 East!

My Motard conversion is comming to completion and now I am working on the electrical going from AC to DC via a new voltage regulator / rectifier.

The strangest thing happened last night, I was installing the new regulator by connecting the 2 yellow stator wires to the new regulator and I accidentally disconnected the blue wire from the stator at the old regulator and the motor died.

I reconnected the blue wire at the old regulator and the berg ran fine.

I have good voltage at the battery via the new regulator, I just have this blue wire connected to the old regulator, and I was wondering if I was missing a connection somewhere?

Thanks
John
 
The 12V stator windings can only be grounded on bikes that use AC for all of their electrical system - ie they do not have a rectifier fitted. It is possible to hook up a stator with one side grounded through a single diode & get DC out, but it is inefficient. To convert properly to DC (to run a battery etc) you have to fit a full-wave rectifier bridge. The DC negative output of the rectifier gets grounded, meaning neither of the AC inputs (ie the stator) can be.

While the regulator & rectifier on 'bergs have been either seperate or a single unit & the wire colours may have changed from year to year, the way the various charging systems work remained pretty much constant up till the Kokusan stator was used. Its arrangement is a bit weird.
 
BundyBear said:
The 12V stator windings can only be grounded on bikes that use AC for all of their electrical system - ie they do not have a rectifier fitted.

Doesn't this depend of if you have a full or half wave rectifier? If you have a half wave it should be okay.
 
mikst - what you say is correct however
in it was said:
It is possible to hook up a stator with one side grounded through a single diode & get DC out, but it is inefficient.
I still reckon this is correct. If you are trying to get lots of power out of the charging system (isn't that what it is there for?) as DC you need to use both halves of the AC charging cycle. To do this you need full wave rectification. To use this you can't have either of the AC wires connected directly to the DC ones. DC negative is generally grounded so AC wires can't be.
 
BundyBear said:
...
If you are trying to get lots of power out of the charging system (isn't that what it is there for?) as DC you need to use both halves of the AC charging cycle. To do this you need full wave rectification. To use this you can't have either of the AC wires connected directly to the DC ones. DC negative is generally grounded so AC wires can't be.

I know but not many need the power since they only ride in daylight. I have rebuild my bike to pure AC to get sufficient light but now I will go to pure DC since I will change to Xenon lights.
 
mikst - Apologies if you have considered this already, you sound like you know your stuff around the electrix on these things.

I understand that you do not intend to use a battery with the HID lights. I would suggest that if no battery is to be used that you at least fit a BIG (several thousand uF) capacitor across the DC side.

HID lights use an inbuilt DC to DC converter. It will need a reasonably smooth DC supply to operate. The converter will have its own internal capacitor but I doubt it will be large enough alone to cope with raw rectified AC. The pulsation in the rectified AC will be an order of magnitude worse if, for simplicity, you intend to use a half wave rectifier.
 
BundyBear said:
...
I understand that you do not intend to use a battery with the HID lights. I would suggest that if no battery is to be used that you at least fit a BIG (several thousand uF) capacitor across the DC side.
...

Thanks for the tip. The idea is that I will start to use battery again due to the HID.
 

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