E-Start 2002 501FE HELP!!!!!!

ok this is driving me up the wall,

Replaced - Stator new unit
- Spark Plug
- CTZ7S Battery
- Auto Decomp
- Beefy Taffy Starter

And Still no start from the button does'nt seem to have the power battery is full charge, third kick cold, one kick hot and i small 70kg but the e-start is dead,

also battery seems to die quick no lights, blinkers afert about 3o minutes of having them on.

What did you do to the decomp?

New clog no more braking my leg, also no need to use the manual decomp

I had to put better battery cables on mine to get it cranking fast enough.

Also, to keep the battery charged, you have to make sure the charging system is working. I re-wired mine with a different regulator/rectifier from Trail Tech.

Ray

If you suspect a knackered battery try parallelling up your car... well if youv'e ot one..
The ignition mudule (Think CDI is correct name ?) needs a 12 volt boost when hitting the button. I comes from that same circuit. Check the drawings and you will see. On mine i t's off at the starter relay strtaight up to the mudule.
If it doesnt get that boost it will be really hard to start on the button !

Anders, DK

.. and you need to tell us if you have a "slipping" problem, cause in another thread you are asking how to "shim the flywheel" (I hope you ment the freewheel ??)... if you have that problem it makes no sence discussing the electrical side of things .. at least for now.

Regards,
Anders, DK

vwhusaberg said:

I had to put better battery cables on mine to get it cranking fast enough.

Also, to keep the battery charged, you have to make sure the charging system is working. I re-wired mine with a different regulator/rectifier from Trail Tech.

Ray

Click to expand...

Hi Ray,

That's the way to go, use the full output from the Alternator to charge the battery, and rewire so your lighting is DC.

The power output from the Alternator to charge the battery as standard is pretty crap to say the least.

Regards

Sparks.

Husa2002fe said:

ok this is driving me up the wall,

Replaced - Stator new unit
- Spark Plug
- CTZ7S Battery
- Auto Decomp
- Beefy Taffy Starter

And Still no start from the button does'nt seem to have the power battery is full charge, third kick cold, one kick hot and i small 70kg but the e-start is dead,

also battery seems to die quick no lights, blinkers afert about 3o minutes of having them on.

Click to expand...

Hi Husa2002fe,
I had similar troubles but it was just my valve adjustment being to loose and not letting the auto decomp do it's job properly. I could kick start it no worries but it really struggled with the button and the battery went flat very quickly. I set my valves using the 1/8 of a turn method and it is a different bike to start now. Very good result. Give that simple adjustment a try before you go spending any more money on it.
Cheers
Garry.

cafey18 said:

Hi Husa2002fe,
I had similar troubles but it was just my valve adjustment being to loose and not letting the auto decomp do it's job properly. I could kick start it no worries but it really struggled with the button and the battery went flat very quickly. I set my valves using the 1/8 of a turn method and it is a different bike to start now. Very good result. Give that simple adjustment a try before you go spending any more money on it.
Cheers
Garry.

Click to expand...

think how well it will go when he sets the tappets at a 1/6th of a turn....!!!!!!!!!!!!!

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

cafey18 said:

Hi Husa2002fe,
I had similar troubles but it was just my valve adjustment being to loose and not letting the auto decomp do it's job properly. I could kick start it no worries but it really struggled with the button and the battery went flat very quickly. I set my valves using the 1/8 of a turn method and it is a different bike to start now. Very good result. Give that simple adjustment a try before you go spending any more money on it.
Cheers
Garry.

Click to expand...

think how well it will go when he sets the tappets at a 1/6th of a turn....!!!!!!!!!!!!!

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

Yep took your hint Taffy and revisited my valves again ! Set them at 1/6 of a turn and the e-starter still works fine. All good and I must admit I feel a bit better about having a little more clearance there anyway.

Cheers.

Dear UHE,

Same problem with my FE501e'02 :? :? :?
Please, can you tell me 1/8 of a turn method to set the valves ??

Thank you very much.

from the servicing section of "the doc" found at the left side of the page:

"Adjusting tappets: If racing adjust every 2nd ride. Take the rocker caps off and remove the plug, next, put the bike into second/third gear and then turn it over via rolling it along the workshop. When both sets of tappets are closed (wait for the inlets to close-now stop!): use a rod through the plug hole to try and make sure that the piston is as near to TDC as you can get. Slip back into neutral and put back on the stand. The alternative way is to keep the bike on the stand and remove the ignition cover then turn the engine with a 17mm spanner and again stop the piston at TDC. Undo both tappets together and loosen, then adjust gently you should feel the screwdriver tighten "lightly" with your finger tips and from here back-off 1/8th-of-a-turn (or try joeUSA's tool) and hold tight whilst tightening the lock nut. Check it again and if the 1/8th-turn is less: actually turn the screwdriver back against the nut slightly as you're locking."

"you should have known"

Thank you very much Ned37
I will check them
BR

1/8th-of-a-turn?

did i write that? what are we all agreed on? i've been on a 1/6th-of-a-turn for as long as i can remember?

0.75mm pitch and 0.12mm tappet clearance required? that's 6 isn't it?

sutto got pissed with me on here a few weeks ago for not being tighter as well.

regards

Taffy

i should prolly read what i copy from the doc, huh. :tongue:
i always use 1/6 turn.