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In your quest, have you checked the spring tension on the decompressor flyweight? I realise mine is the older engine with a bigger starter than yours, but it used to start on the buton once in a blue moon where now it's seems reliable every time.
There have been several threads on it to search through. Taff started a good one about decomp spring preload.
There have been several threads on it to search through. Taff started a good one about decomp spring preload.
I put a Trail Tech (KTM) stater on my FE 650. After that I no long want to install a second battery. I still kick start the bike when it is cold. But after that I use the E button all day long. I typically run my fan too.
A long the same lines as the decomp spring. A while back Dan from MotoXotica suggested that I set the clearance on that valve on the tight end of the speck. It workes just fine.
A long the same lines as the decomp spring. A while back Dan from MotoXotica suggested that I set the clearance on that valve on the tight end of the speck. It workes just fine.
24V ?
Surely not :shock:
24V would kill the starter and other electrics and would not be able to be charged or regulated. A shocking experience
More CCA (cold cranking amps) would help get the starter (and motor) spinning a bit quicker though ?
BundyBear said:
Surely not :shock:
24V would kill the starter and other electrics and would not be able to be charged or regulated. A shocking experience
More CCA (cold cranking amps) would help get the starter (and motor) spinning a bit quicker though ?
Re: 24V ?
You are right, the second battery in his setup was not charged, but it'd be pretty easy to make a small circuit to charge it as well.
The CCA rating of a battery is a bit of a furphy in determining what power is actually output by the starter when you hit the button. The actual voltage across the starter is more reliable.
There was several threads about it perhaps three years ago. From memory a bloke in Tassie swears by it. Apparently the starter survives OK. Two YTZ7s in series probably drops to 14 volts or so total across the starter, so it is not that big an ask. The rest of the electrics only sees one battery, so the chances of anyting else getting fried is no worse than standard.U2Slow said:
You are right, the second battery in his setup was not charged, but it'd be pretty easy to make a small circuit to charge it as well.
The CCA rating of a battery is a bit of a furphy in determining what power is actually output by the starter when you hit the button. The actual voltage across the starter is more reliable.
ned37
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i can watch the voltage on my 650 drop like a rock while i'm cranking it hot. gets to about 6v too quick. one thing i noticed is that if the idle is set a hair too low, the starter really struggles. keeping that air from getting in makes a big difference. the battery is about a year old ytz7s. maybe i broke its spirit before i got the decomp right :lol: .
furphy??? i like that
ned37
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- Dec 13, 2004
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well, after measuring the load on the 650 ytz7s battery and comparing the same load (a halogen lamp) on the one in my 450, i've determined the 650 one is shot . ordered an el cheepo non -yuasa, found the case to be a tad tight for it, had to dremel grind the inside to get a tight but acceptable fit, and now its a glorious everytime (warm) estarter. cold oil still too much for the torque limiter.
barely a year on the yuasa :cuss:
. ordered an el cheepo non -yuasa, found the case to be a tad tight for it, had to dremel grind the inside to get a tight but acceptable fit, and now its a glorious everytime (warm) estarter. cold oil still too much for the torque limiter.barely a year on the yuasa :cuss:
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