DIY subframe tank for 70 degree Husaberg

Hello,
as the 70 degree subframe tanks are not available anymore, I wonder if somebody tried to do one from the original subframe, making it fuel tight?

If yes, I would be interested to have some advices and information

thanks

I made my subframe into a tank, but I never got it completely tight as it kept leaking at the very back at the top where the holes are for the plastics. I managed to seal some leaks using a soldering iron, smearing the plastics. But beware if it get too hot it will burn and smolder. As the plastic is very thin at the holes in the back I never managed to seal it using my melting technique. Luckily it's quite high up and not close to any sensitive hot areas (well, the muffler is close but I never had a problem with it as I never topped the tank fully).
To install fittings for fuel line and breather hose I drilled a smaller hole and warmed it up with a heat gun before screwing the fittings in. Be careful as you don't have many tries. I managed and none of them leaked. I put the fuel line to the right under the battery as far down as possible. That way the fuel hose will be out of the way and it's easier to manage bends. I was tempted to connect it to the small dip on the left side until I realized that the fuel there will never be used anyway, and the fitting with hose will be too much exposed.
I can take a few pictures if you like.

What I learned reading up before I did the job was that the subframe, and all tanks, are problematic to change/fix as they are in a sense one molecule. When they do the molding they add a free radical connecting all molecules into one big chain. The result is a very sturdy shape that will return to it's original shape if deformed. The down side is that nothing(?) will stick to it and it's difficult, if not impossible to melt together.

My DYI subframe tank worked alright but I never fully trusted it, so I bought a 70 degree subframe tank. But you might as well try as if you fail it will still work as a normal subframe.

Hi Jon,

thanks for your answer! Yes I would be interested to see some pictures. I am thinking about trying as well during next winter, so your experience can help me.

I will investigate if there is a special glue on the market to make it seal.

If the rear section is made of polyethylene like the fuel tank then there is a specific glue available. I used it on my new 70deg subframe tank to get it to seal. They say that superglue, etc wont stick to polyethylene although i used a two part superglue to do a quick patch job on my standard tank after a puncture from a tree branch about a year ago and no leaks so far! Always better to use the right stuff though! Good luck with the conversion, am keen to see how it works out!

akshun, please share the exact glue you used!! I have a tank I need to save!!!

zimi, I will take a few pics when I get home next week.

Sorry Jon, i cant remember off hand and im not at home at the moment so i cant duck out to my shed and have a look. Next time im back i will try to remember to look. It wasn't hard to find, i reckon i got it from a hardware store. It has a primer pen and a tube of glue.

Hey guys, was out in the shed yesterday and was going through my glues and stuff looking for something when i remembered i said i would let you know what i used on my tank!

I used a sellys product simply called "all plastic and toy glue", it has two parts, a primer and a glue. This says it is suitable for polyethylene and worked a treat on my 70deg tank.

The other stuff i used on my original tank was two part sellys "araldite" five minute epoxy adhesive. Now this stuff is not supposed to work on polyethylene but as i said above, still no leaks!

glue

west system's Gflex. Best for plastics... expensive but worth it. They recommend heating the plastic while glueing. I managed to fix a cracked black tank on my 390 with g flex and fiberglass, until I crashed again..

Can you post some pics on how you did this tank mod?

Guys there's polyethylene and crossed link polyethylene. Ours is the crossed link.

I'll be trying the 3M DP8005 on a 70deg tank I was given.

You can buy the applicators on EBay for $17 instead of $150 for the 3M. 3M plungers fit. Make sure you use the 10:1 plungers and mixing nozzles

Google - 'DP8005 for crossed link polyethylene' for more info.

Alan said:

Guys there's polyethylene and crossed link polyethylene. Ours is the crossed link.

I'll be trying the 3M DP8005 on a 70deg tank I was given.

You can buy the applicators on EBay for $17 instead of $150 for the 3M. 3M plungers fit. Make sure you use the 10:1 plungers and mixing nozzles

Google - 'DP8005 for crossed link polyethylene' for more info.

Click to expand...

Guys, don't use this 3M DP8005. It sticks well to the poly but fuel breaks it down eventually.

This stuff does work. It sticks to the poly to the point you can't scratch it off with your fingernail. Fuel will not break it down. The draw back is it takes a week or two to set.

Performance Plus Gasket Paste Sealant Putty 85 Gram PP550 EP550 | Perth, Western Australia - OneForce Australia

Hey guys here to learn how to convert my subframe into a gas tank. Thanks for all the help it looks like a bunch of good information on this thread!

I'm in the process of coming back to the United States from Georgia with 49 hours of travel time so this gives me some downtime to start looking into what I need to do once I'm home to get this noble unicorn fixed up and ready to ride down through Mexico for the next year or two!

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I had a real good look at this recently and gave up- worked out there is probably only a couple of litres available. All reports say it takes ages for the fuel to transfer into the subframe when you fill up- painful at the petrol station while you riding mates are waiting! No way around it unless you use a bigger line into the tank- I was using the existing fitting in place for the Safari tank, which is usual fuel line size ~ 7mm 5/16".
I feel a 3 litre ish fuel bladder strapped to the rear guard is a better easier option
Rik