Dellorto jetting.

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Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Messages
68
Location
ohio USA
I have stock jetting on my 97 fe600e and went to lower the needle tonight 1 clip worth, and found the needle all the way down already. (clip on top) Taffy, What do I do?

running info:

starts with button cold and no choke at temps above 75 F.

idles perfect

instant throttle response

surges bad with light throttle held steady

pops loud on decel but pipe joints not sealed yet.

runs perfect under any load while accelerating.

light black smoke under quick throttle movements in neutral.

Thanks,

Volvonut
 
volvonut said:
I have stock jetting on my 97 fe600e and went to lower the needle tonight 1 clip worth, and found the needle all the way down already. (clip on top) Taffy, What do I do?

running info:

starts with button cold and no choke at temps above 75 F.

idles perfect

instant throttle response

surges bad with light throttle held steady

pops loud on decel but pipe joints not sealed yet.

runs perfect under any load while accelerating.

light black smoke under quick throttle movements in neutral.

Thanks,

Volvonut

Its possible that who ever had the bike before you may have tried to cure the decel popping by leaning the needle, To cure the popping you should actually richen the pilot jet. I would seal the pipe first, put the clip back in the middle position and then test, If you still have decel popping start increasing the pilot jet one size at a time.

A little black smoke is normal for a 97 600.
 
[web]http://www.kartingtechnic.dk/html/dellorto.htm[/web]

You may want to print out these manuals and save them!
 
eric

i wouldn't agree about the popping and backfiring. only a month ago i went from my usual 45PA/35PJ to dale's 100/48 and the thing was popping and banging away like a gun.

i have many, many more examples of this as i write down all my test results.

he is definately running very rich. no choke is needed etc.

my suggestion to volvo nut is to get a new needle and emulsion tube. the bike is 8 years old and dellorto needles show visible signs of wear in one year let alone eight!

these two items are the two that wear so volvo i would change them.

you haven't actually said what the standard jetting IS BTW! i for one am not an encyclopedia on these things...

again have a look at the ignition advance etc.

you are definately rich at mid revs so i would say the emulsion tube is worn.

BTW-i used to pull mine out and could see that it had worn oval!

try it!

regards

taffy
 
Very much appreciated guys, I will start on this as soon as possible and give results. I'm learning alot!

Volvonut
 
Taff:

Volvonuts bike only has eight hours on it. It is barely broken in. Doubtful if any parts are worn.

I discounted the fact that the bike starts without the choke. There are variables here which are unknown. I am guessing that Mr. V-nut my be starting the bike with the e-starter and giving a little throttle. This will start the beast, and then keep feeding it throttle until it warms up :).

I not going to let the cat out of the bag so.......................

Give us your start and warm up procedure sir.
 
I simply turn the fuel on and the key on and hit the orange button. It will start up and die, I do it again and this time it will stay running. I do not give it any gas. After it starts it will gradually increase in rpm and get smoother. If it is too cold, I will activate the choke, but this usually causes a no start, just sputter. I will then take it off choke and hit the button again and then it will act just like the before discription.

Thanks,

Volvonut
 
volvonut said:
After it starts it will gradually increase in rpm and get smoother. If it is too cold, I will activate the choke, but this usually causes a no start, just sputter. I will then take it off choke and hit the button again and then it will act just like the before discription.

Thanks,

Volvonut

so you are stuck between choke and no coke. not unusual i'm afraid. you have a very rich std bike...

regards

Taffy
 
also known as the atomiser. it's the tube the main jet screws into.

regards

Taffy
 
Think of it as a siphon or pickup tube on an automotive paint spray gun

IW4200.jpg
 
volvonut said:
I simply turn the fuel on and the key on and hit the orange button. It will start up and die, I do it again and this time it will stay running. I do not give it any gas. After it starts it will gradually increase in rpm and get smoother. If it is too cold, I will activate the choke, but this usually causes a no start, just sputter. I will then take it off choke and hit the button again and then it will act just like the before discription.

Thanks,

Volvonut

In my opinion a properly jetted Berg will not start cold without the choke. When cold the choke should be on and kick or e-start it with absolutely no throttle. As it warms up to operating temperature the idle speed will decrease sometimes abruptly. This is because the bike is warm now and wants a leaner mixture. Its telling you to take the choke off. It should idle properly at this point with no choke. A few blips of the throttle and you should be ready to go :)

It does seem that the pilot jet is too rich. Do seal the pipes good to rule out that source of deceleration or other popping.
 
LeFrog said:
I start my bike without the choke. Does it mean it's not properly jetted?

Probably a bit rich on the pilot jet. What happens if you use the choke?
 
No start with choke.

If I start the bike without the said choke, it dies and it fouls the plug. :oops:
 
It would probably be a good idea to drop one size on the pilot jet and test.

You are getting closer and closer to starting nirvana and true Berg enlightenment Nicholas.

I been on the path to Husaberg enlightenment for some time now but somehow fail to snatch the pebble from the hand...................... :lol:
 
I also had one major exhaust fart once on the trail Sunday morning, going downhill, after releasing the throttle. That was a loud one and wondered at that point if my main was not a bit too big.

Bob lives at a much higher elevation, I would guess it was fine for him. Berger upped the clip once (I guess he upped it). It's also quite hot now. I guess it was already around 85 F at that time (7 am-ish).

Is there a jetting chart anywhere? I know KTM makes some for their bikes...
 
Here are a couple of good links:

Keihin site

Mikuni site

Do you get any popping during deceleration?




4: Backfires in Exhaust

Note:

It is normal for many high performance exhaust systems to moderately backfire or pop when the throttle is closed from mid-to-high rpm. In fact, one should expect a well-tuned high performance engine to "pop" and "crackle" when the throttle is closed at high rpm.

The popping is a result of the air/fuel mixture becoming very lean when the throttle is closed and the engine is rotating well above idle speed. It is also necessary that the exhaust system have rather open mufflers.

Why This (normally) Happens:

1) When the throttle valve is in the idle position, fuel does not flow out of the main system (needle, needle jet, main jet). Fuel is only delivered to the engine by the pilot (idle) system.
2) The combined effect of the closed throttle and elevated engine rpm is to create a fairly strong vacuum in the intake manifold. This vacuum, in turn, causes a high air flow rate through the small gap formed by the throttle valve and carburetor throat.
3) Under these conditions the pilot (idle) system cannot deliver enough fuel to create a normal, combustible air/fuel ratio. The mixture becomes too lean to burn reliably in the combustion chamber. It gets sent into the exhaust system unburned and collects there.
4) When the odd firing of the lean mixture does occur, it is sent, still burning, into the exhaust system where it sometimes ignites the raw mixture that has collected ---- the exhaust then pops or backfires.
5) Completely stock Harleys do not do this until open-end mufflers, such as the popular Screamin' Eagle slip-ons, are installed. The exhaust must be both free-flowing and have an open exit for the popping to occur.


Other possible causes:

Air Leaks:

Any source of fresh air into the exhaust system can create or worsen the conditions that bring about exhaust backfiring. The most common entry point is the junction of the header pipes and mufflers. Even a small air leak can dramatically increase the intensity or likelihood of exhaust system backfiring.

A high temperature silicone sealant, as can be found in many auto parts stores, may be used to seal the pipe/muffler junction.

Lean Carburetion:

While exhaust system popping may be considered normal, it is certainly made worse by an overly lean idle circuit.

Be sure that your carburetor's pilot jet is the correct size and that the idle air mixture screw is correctly adjusted before looking for other causes of popping. The procedure for adjusting the pilot circuit is covered in the Tuning Manual.

Ignition:

If exhaust system popping is very loud, irregular and accompanied by loss of power, then you should suspect that the ignition system is not performing as it should. If, for some reason, the ignition sometimes fires at the wrong time, then exhaust popping can become very energetic (loud). Look for failing high tension leads (plug wires), failing ignition coil(s) and especially switches or connectors as possible causes.
 
come on nick!

there are two jetting settings in the owners doc. i also have jetting figures as well. that's three sets of examples. go completely to one of those settings-lock, stock and barrel.

OR just tweak what you have with the screw driver and just 'tickle it'. learn a little about your carb with that screwdriver knowing that you can go back if you want to.

i have just posted how to set the carb on the other jetting thread at present. i don't believe that your jetting is far out.

up to 2,000ft the jetting can remain the same as sea level so where are you and where was bob?

treat what you have as something that for now is good and as a pier you can swim back to that's safe. don't treat it as wrong.

small changes to the fuel screw and to the idle make a big difference. learn without making a mistake and know that you can go back.

or fit a keihin!

regards

Taffy
 
Yes that's what I am fiddling with. After playing with the mixture screw a bit the bike has become a lot easier to start. I guess it may also have had bad gas left in the tank for not being ridden in a few months. I also empty one gallon of AvGas on top of the existing gallon of old gas when I got it. I know Berger will kill me for that :D

Now it's stock US 91 octane.

My riding areas are between 1200ft (Salt River in Phoenix) and 2000ft (highest elevation in the Sycamore Creek OHV). Bob's city is at 4000ft. Which is what Berger lower the clip (not upped). I absolutely need to know what jets I have in there. :?
 

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