Decompressor lever at the rear

LeFrog · Jun 11, 2005

I noticed that, when I pull the decompressor lever, the cable pulls a lever on the right side of the engine, towards the front. What it does too it give some slack in a horizontal cable that runs towards the rear, to another lever, on the left side.

But the rear lever does not budge, ever. I think something is ackward. Is this supposed to release the rear-left lever and lift the front-right lever? In this case it seems I have to adjust so that there is no slack?

I think it shows this in video #2/4.

sandskipper · Jun 12, 2005

LeFrog,

The decomp wire that you speaking of does indeed sound like it may be in need of an adjustment. The wire is conected to the manual decomp lever along the right side of the top of the head and is used to open the exhaust ports slightly to releave compression for clearing the cumbustion chamber. Husadawg has a good picture in his gallery of this mechanism.

The above link shoud give a good visual of how this works. The specs for this adjustment are listed in the workshop manual on page 28 under "Decompression Adjustment":

Put the engine in the TDC position on compression
stroke. (see Section 5)
Check that the decompression cable is well
lubricated and runs smoothly.
Check the play of the valve decompression lever
(fig.9D-1) which should be 2+/- 1mm (fig.9D-2).
If an adjustment is needed release the lock nut (fig.
9D-3) and turn the adjustment screw (fig.9d-4).
Tighten the lock nut when the adequate play is
obtained.

Reference pic

(Sorry, I have tried to make this image larger and post the pic on this topic but my computer skills are not all that good. This is the best I can do for now.)

Hope this helps you in finding your answer.

Regards,

LeFrog · Jun 12, 2005

Thanks. Is the rear lever supposed to be released when you pull the hand lever? What is its purpose? Can't find it ... yet

sandskipper · Jun 12, 2005

The rear lever, I believe, is a part of the AUTO decomp mecanisim and is engaged from the kick starter to release a little of the compression before the piston reaches TDC so that you dont break your freekin leg off while trying to kick start that bad four stroke machine. The compression is anywhere between 11:1 and 13:1 on the Husabergs. A normal engines ratio is @ about 8:1 and diesel engines about 18:1. This mechanisim releases some of the pressure so that manual kickstarting can be achieved on the higher compression engine. If you move the kickstarter with your hand while watching the shaft that the cable connects to that there is a detent the shaft will move into and back out of durring the downward motion of the kickstart lever. This is the AUTO decomp lever working. Hope this helps.

Regards,

husabutt · Jun 12, 2005

Froggy:

The rear lever is a kickstart activated decompression lever. Move/kick the kick start completely through the stroke. When the lever returns to the normal resting position you should here a pronounced click. This tells you the kickstart activated decompression is ready to go.

You have three decompression systems:

Handlebar mounted
Autodecompression (for e-starting)
Kick start activated

LeFrog · Jun 12, 2005

I see now

So if there is too much slack it may create more difficulties starting the bike?

berger · Jun 12, 2005

Froggy,
When I looked the bike over it appeared that the manual and kick start decompressors where working properly. If anything is questionable it would be the auto decompression lobe on the cam. To check that the rocker cover needs to come off (that is one of the main reasons I keep asking where is your oil leak from?). If the rocker cover needs resealed then it would be good to check the auto decompression system when the cover is off.

LeFrog · Jun 12, 2005

I baught brake cleaner. I am going to remove the skid plate, clean up real good, top off with oil and see where it comes from...

risky1 · Jun 12, 2005

hey Lefrog, don't be scared of removing the rocker cover. once you do it, as with most things on this bike, you will find it is very easy to work on. I find that the ease of maintenance ( note- not frequency) makes this bike a joy to own. Besides you will have to have the bike running to see where it is leaking.

Bobzilla · Jun 12, 2005

Hey Nick
I actually had the kick decompression loosened to the point it was useless because I found it easy to put the moro at TDC pull the manual lever and roll it just past TDC and then kick, Starts first or second kick every time that way but you have to go about it step by step. I put it back so it would be easy for you to kick over until you learned the drill.
If you read all the posts about hard starting and starting on the button the common threads is that with the ignition on that bike and the auto decompression
1. it is hard for the starter to turn it over due to advanced timing .
2. If the kick decompression is not just perfect you loose some of the compression needed for starting. The kick decomp works so well that you cant feel the motor coming up on compression.
3. When you kick it only will start if you get a full kick from just past TDC. Depending on the indexing of the kick starter you may kick several times before you get the start of the kick at TDC. You will only get one spark per kick sko it better be at the right time on the kick or you are wasting effort. When the motor comes up on compression you will not be able to kick it through if you are a mere mortal.
The Honda 650 starts east because you have a good ignition AND they dont use an auto decompression device. You use the manual one to bring the piston to just past tdc on the compression strke and then kick.

Dale please jump in here and fix my mistakes but I think I have the just of it right. I hope I have not muddied the waters. It was just my way of dealing with a motor that had some small quirks that I learned to deal with.

LeFrog · Jun 12, 2005

Thanks, Bob. I learned the drill from Berger but my issue is that the bike will not restart on the button even when hot, something that was working at Berger's house. Then back at my home, it would not work. On the trail either, even after long minutes riding it. I am currently rewiring because the red wires looked used and a bit corroded, also changed the battery and will add a ground from the starter to the battery. Also converted to the Optimate system, my son's WR will get the Tender jack.

Decompressor lever at the rear

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