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Hi Rui
thanks for the picture
if you measure or calculate the length from center to center and also the width you could ask about a KTM 400 rfs rod on the KTM RFS forum .. I can do that for you if you measure the width and length centre to centre.
you may also find something about right from Carrillo catalog or prox
Carrillo rod listing is on page 64 of the powersports catalog found here
Catalogs
pro x
http://www.pro-x.com/downloads/technical.pdf
however what I would do if it happens that I ever can't find a genuine rod is to have Carrillo make one from scratch and use a prox big end pin/ bearing then you know its right.
thanks for the picture
if you measure or calculate the length from center to center and also the width you could ask about a KTM 400 rfs rod on the KTM RFS forum .. I can do that for you if you measure the width and length centre to centre.
you may also find something about right from Carrillo catalog or prox
Carrillo rod listing is on page 64 of the powersports catalog found here
Catalogs
pro x
http://www.pro-x.com/downloads/technical.pdf
however what I would do if it happens that I ever can't find a genuine rod is to have Carrillo make one from scratch and use a prox big end pin/ bearing then you know its right.
- Joined
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- 17,028
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- Ely, England
he's wrong again! DO NOT LISTEN TO BUSHMECHANIC.
don't listen to the man!
do not use a Prox pin on this occasion.
I have genuine pins in stock. A REAL MECHANIC KNOWS WHY YOU CAN'T USE THE PROX PIN FROM ANOTHER BIKE ON THIS OCCASION..............
I can repair your rod. and i think that this is the cheapest and best option for you. I think it'll be around £200 with a new pin and bearing as well as little end bush, Rui. OK?
regards
Taffy
don't listen to the man!
do not use a Prox pin on this occasion.
I have genuine pins in stock. A REAL MECHANIC KNOWS WHY YOU CAN'T USE THE PROX PIN FROM ANOTHER BIKE ON THIS OCCASION..............
I can repair your rod. and i think that this is the cheapest and best option for you. I think it'll be around £200 with a new pin and bearing as well as little end bush, Rui. OK?
regards
Taffy
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- Joined
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Hi rui yes I got your PM
still need the width .. at both ends
there is a 1mm longer husqy rod in the Carrillo cat that is 18mm wide at the big end and 22mm wide at the piston end pg 70
HU-610<-04999N
127.00 long
22.02 piston end width
17.98 big end width
38.000 big end ID
small end ID 22mm
you would need to fit a bushing at the small end and perhaps reduce the width at the little end and it is heavy .. 361gm
if you need a special pin for some reason trick titanium can make them but lead time is rediculous. there are other places to get new pins
I would not trust a rod repair .. just MHO ... not an attack
still need the width .. at both ends
there is a 1mm longer husqy rod in the Carrillo cat that is 18mm wide at the big end and 22mm wide at the piston end pg 70
HU-610<-04999N
127.00 long
22.02 piston end width
17.98 big end width
38.000 big end ID
small end ID 22mm
you would need to fit a bushing at the small end and perhaps reduce the width at the little end and it is heavy .. 361gm
if you need a special pin for some reason trick titanium can make them but lead time is rediculous. there are other places to get new pins
I would not trust a rod repair .. just MHO ... not an attack
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- Jun 13, 2007
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- south east WA Australia
Hi Rui
I asked on KTM talk for you
there is a 126mm rod for a KTM stroker build of some configuration
will find out more dimensions on it later
if the "real mechanic" would explain why the pins are different a real engineer and machinist can tell you how to make it work.
I asked on KTM talk for you
there is a 126mm rod for a KTM stroker build of some configuration
will find out more dimensions on it later
if the "real mechanic" would explain why the pins are different a real engineer and machinist can tell you how to make it work.
Last edited:
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- south east WA Australia
from the real mechanics:
its very similar to a 2006 ktm 560 rod with a bushing added to the small end, 126mm long 20mm pin end 38mm big end
can only get it via ktm if you buy a complete crank
they also suggest for a new rod then Carrillo is recommended, further if you want someone to organise it and a new pin contact Travis at thumperracing ThumperRacing
the KTM 560 now relies on carillo rods to rebuild the crank so they definitely can make you one
Travis has let me know he has 3 KTM 560 rods in stock
there are also Arrows custom conrods but there is no feedback on them
you haven't given the specifics of your pin and Taffy isn't going to share the required information that could help you but very generally speaking it is most always possible to modify a pin for any required application. he claims it can't be done but does so with all the mechanical dexterity and machining experience of an impotent cane toad.
from the real machinist:
if the big end oil holes do not align take a 3mm diamond coated spherical burr in a die grinder and grind a 1-2mm deep groove in the ID of the crank pin bore to connect the oil passages. if the oil passages require enlarging use diamond coated burrs, if the pin is too long grind it down, if the pin is up to 4mm too short split the difference either side and weld the pin ends.
I hope you can get something sorted out and get your bike running again .. no bike = no good.
its very similar to a 2006 ktm 560 rod with a bushing added to the small end, 126mm long 20mm pin end 38mm big end
can only get it via ktm if you buy a complete crank
they also suggest for a new rod then Carrillo is recommended, further if you want someone to organise it and a new pin contact Travis at thumperracing ThumperRacing
the KTM 560 now relies on carillo rods to rebuild the crank so they definitely can make you one
Travis has let me know he has 3 KTM 560 rods in stock
there are also Arrows custom conrods but there is no feedback on them
you haven't given the specifics of your pin and Taffy isn't going to share the required information that could help you but very generally speaking it is most always possible to modify a pin for any required application. he claims it can't be done but does so with all the mechanical dexterity and machining experience of an impotent cane toad.
from the real machinist:
if the big end oil holes do not align take a 3mm diamond coated spherical burr in a die grinder and grind a 1-2mm deep groove in the ID of the crank pin bore to connect the oil passages. if the oil passages require enlarging use diamond coated burrs, if the pin is too long grind it down, if the pin is up to 4mm too short split the difference either side and weld the pin ends.
I hope you can get something sorted out and get your bike running again .. no bike = no good.
Last edited:
- Joined
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- Location
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- Joined
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- south east WA Australia
if the OD isn't right that's fixable too
the only joke is that a "real mechanic" can't make it work
the only joke is that a "real mechanic" can't make it work
Could he not have just pointed that out instead of all the carry on? Somebody that has never had such an early design would have never thought that the crank didn't have an oil supply of some sort! I did have the idea ( possibly from somewhere on this forum) that early models relied on splash lubrication and this made them unreliable but i just took it for granted they were talking about the top end! On top of that i own two 99 bergs, maybe i should know better also!
Had this information been given earlier, perhaps they both could have saved face?!
That said, he still wants to know where he can get a rod for his bike! I have one here as my 99 400 is in bits but sadly for him i plan to put it back together someday!
Best of luck Rui with your pursuit of parts, im sure you will get the help you are after!
Had this information been given earlier, perhaps they both could have saved face?!
That said, he still wants to know where he can get a rod for his bike! I have one here as my 99 400 is in bits but sadly for him i plan to put it back together someday!
Best of luck Rui with your pursuit of parts, im sure you will get the help you are after!
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no you did not!
you were explaining the OIL FEED to him.
you've been wrong that many times you don't know when you're deluding yourself anymore.
YOU GOT IT WRONG.
you're always getting it wrong and from now on I'm going to point it out to you everytime.
WAFW
Taffy
you were explaining the OIL FEED to him.
you've been wrong that many times you don't know when you're deluding yourself anymore.
YOU GOT IT WRONG.
you're always getting it wrong and from now on I'm going to point it out to you everytime.
WAFW
Taffy
- Joined
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:violin::violin::violin::violin:LOL
one day in another life you may possibly understand there is no such thing as being "wrong" in sharing generic information
it doesn't matter the slightest about oil feed I simply gave Generic information applying to all big end pins being used in an application they were not designed for
this is useful information that can be used by anybody .. not just poor rui
note the wording below
if the OD isn't right that's fixable too
the only joke is that a "real mechanic" can't make it work
there are things "wrong" in this thread
1) assumption that it isn't possible to modify a pin for use outside its intended application
2) failure to explain why a "real mechanic" can't figure out a simple machining task
3) withholding useful information that would help the OP locate the required parts
4) Abuse and obscenities which on balance make the site look like a pigsty
now taffymiesters .... ! o wise and venereal one .. lets address one of those points: are you going to explain why you and only you as a "real mechanic" can't figure out how to use a pro x big end pin in a 400 rebuild or are you persisting with being an Abusive Unhelpful ****** ?
.
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