Clutch master and slave conversion (brembo)

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Joined
May 16, 2022
Messages
9
Location
New zealand
Hey all my berg 2010 fx450 is having big fade issues on the clutch side of things, now the old girl is getting hot as I'm predominantly doing tight forest riding ,I've fitted a fan kit,rebuilt both master and slave cylinders and switched to running ATF as I've had experience using mineral brake fluid working in the MTB industry.
Long story short can you run a ktm brembo system Dot fluid instead or is there a seal conversion kit
 
ATF works fine, I've run it for ages, but you need to figure out what's wrong- what do you mean by fade? I just did a exploration ride on the 570 through absolute rubbish with trees down everywhere, no clutch drag on an original clutch with 130 hours. The Brembo slave fits apart from the bleed valve gets in the way of the cases- if you ground it down it would fit. I reckon the later 9.5mm bore master cylinder would make the difference, but I fixed my drag problem by fitting a longer lever span adjust screw into cheapy flex type lever to allow more lever travel, i.e. stroke. Even with a standard Magura lever bent out a bit from the bar, and on full adjustment out, they should not drag.
 
ATF works fine, I've run it for ages, but you need to figure out what's wrong- what do you mean by fade? I just did a exploration ride on the 570 through absolute rubbish with trees down everywhere, no clutch drag on an original clutch with 130 hours. The Brembo slave fits apart from the bleed valve gets in the way of the cases- if you ground it down it would fit. I reckon the later 9.5mm bore master cylinder would make the difference, but I fixed my drag problem by fitting a longer lever span adjust screw into cheapy flex type lever to allow more lever travel, i.e. stroke. Even with a standard Magura lever bent out a bit from the bar, and on full adjustment out, they should not drag.
She completely fades or disappears and the only way to get it back is to pump it up,my theory is that the clutch hose is routed past and close to all the real hot parts of the engine and then hence cooking the fluid up when there's groveling or real slow going until things have a cool off
 
She completely fades or disappears and the only way to get it back is to pump it up,my theory is that the clutch hose is routed past and close to all the real hot parts of the engine and then hence cooking the fluid up when there's groveling or real slow going until things have a cool off
It takes REALLY high temperatures to boil ATF- I reckon it's still got air in the system. Move the line, but try to back bleed with a syringe works best. Run good coolant like Engine Ice and good synthetic oil- makes huge difference in engine temp in tight going.
 

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