clutch doesn't split!!

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woschtel

woschtel

Joined
Jul 10, 2004
Messages
1
First, I'm a new Husaberg-driver!!
I'm from Germany so, excuse my bad english!
Maybe there is anybody here who can speak german, and can help me!!


My clutch on my Husaberg FE 501 (model2000) doesn't part right!

In the first gear the bike allways wants to go on, even if I press the clutch!!

How can I repair it??

thanks a lot woschtel
 
Maybe the steel clutch plates aren't flat anymore, if you (ab)use the clutch often they get hot and bend.
 
very easy

your clutch drum (der mitter) ist kapputt. replace bitte. it will be perfect after this. you can find neutral at a stand still-no problem.

Taffy
 
Before you order any bits made of pure expensonium see if you can confirm why it drags.

Does the clutch basket have notches worn where the friction plates contact the basket? If it has they can prevent the plates freely coming apart when you compress the springs. Taff, is this the kapputt you refer to or is there something else with the basket that can cause the clutch to drag?

I'd also check all the friction and pressure plates are flat while it is in bits.

If it was an eary model KTM 2 smoke I'd expect it to drag!
 
Brad, I would agree with Taffy... I have the same issue on my berg, can't find neutral.
Woschtel, open up the side cover and check out the clutch. I know of buddies with access to a bridgeport (milling machine) that have temorarily cleaned the basket up, but I am not sure if this is a recommended permanent fix (but it is free!).
How much does a new basket cost anyway???
 
Parsko and Brad

yes chipped and grooved is what i meant brad. the plates can't move along the horizontal axis with all the chips and grooves.

parsko, i tried to clean mine with a woodworkers chisel and it did a beautiful job. i was slicing off microns!!!! BUT when it was all done you could move the plates up 2mm and left and right 2mm-the plates were completely loose.

the new clutch drum is expensive but it cures the problem 100%.

regards

Taffy
 
Yeah Taff, my boss did the same thing (less the woodworkers tool!) with his bridgeport. I agree that the resulting play can/might cause damage. Did you have any issues after that mod?
(I'm thinking about doing it to mine now, due to poor cash flow...)
 
Parsko

i looked at the clutch plates wobbling up and down on the clutch basket and decided to order the clutch centre on the spot.

i missed some more practice and racing but there-it had to be done.

now; i can snick it into neutral at stand still no problem and as it deteriorates i will know exactly what the cure is!

Taffy
 
Cleaning up the clutch basket as is will not make the out-of true any worse than it already is. :idea:

Also, is it worth attempting to weld the leading edges on the basket & mill (or chisel & file!) the slots back to the right width? Is the basket aluminium or magnesium alloy?
 
out of true?

brad you're wrong. when a plate can wobble like a steering wheel left, right, up and down it's no good. the moment you clean up the centre the plates are loose and everywhere, so sorry-can't agree. :cry:

Taffy
 
Hi Woschtel,

I´m also from germany. I´ve got a lot of used
spare parts. Let´s phone up, I think it´s easier
for us to speak about all the technical things in german.
I will send you a PN immediately.


greetings

hribman
 
If this is a problem you have always had I had it also from the first day. The clutch would not disengage completely. The clutch cylinder was bled repeatedly and still would not work. After taking the clutch cover off and watching I found that the rod comming from the mastercycinder is too short. Solution was a bearing that is round and gives a little more length to the shaft. Three plus years and still working good.
 
Bobzilla, good suggestion. That also would give the same end affect on the tight clutch. You found the actuating shaft was too short? Do you think that was from wear or wrong from the factory? No issues (in 3 years) with finding neutral?

Brad, I also agree with Taffy. Granted, the milling/filing/welding/honing trick performed on the basket would work, it probably should not be used as a permanent fix. The problem I have with it is; the small amount of acceleration the basket makes before contact is made with the clutch plates. This small acceleration performed 1000 times (or way more) throughout a ride or rides would cause the same clutch basket wear problem that the modification was supposed to fix (did that make sense??). I think there would also be some sort of new resonance or balance issue inside the motor. Yeah, it'd get you through the season though, but you would probably have to replace more parts in the end.

How much was a clutch basket again???
 
Hi,

I can´t say too much about your problems with your clutches.
But no one is talking about which models you´ve got.
Have you got a mechanical clutch or a hydraulic clutch.
The hydr. clutch has got a shorter rod than the mech. clutch.
So, Bobzilla, it could be that you had the wrong rod in your engine.
Could it be, you´ve got a ´99 model ?
The older models (mech. clutch) had also a little, round piece of metal (thickness 3mm) between
rod and clutch bearing. When doing some maintenace or something else and you lost
this little thing, the clutch won´t work really well.
Anyway, finding neutral is not too easy at each model?! Or not? I think at newer models it´s a bit easier.

greetings

hribman
 
Taff
I didn't say cleaning it up would be good or OK - just no worse than it already is. :) Cleaning it up would only be a stopgap measure that might be tried by a tightarse like me.

You're right about the off concentricity. The centripetal force would throw the plates against the basket & make the binding worse.
 
Brad i concur on all parts there and it was the off-centre plates that i was thinking off specifically.

Taffy
 

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