changing up a gear

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Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
17,028
Location
Ely, England
you know, if i say i don't over rev my bike i'm not strictly telling the truth. i try not to overrev my bike but i can't change gear quick enough!

it is just ssoooooooo hard as i sit there foot pressing hard up, up and up and yet still the blinkin thing won't change gear.

i tend to blip the throttle to do it but as i open the throttle again i find i'm still in the same gear! it's alright at lower revs but at WOT it's nigh on impossible.

don't suppose anyone has a marvellous answer to this one?

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
don't suppose anyone has a marvellous answer to this one?

It's all in the timing Taffy :wink:

Apply too much pressure too soon when you blip and it won't change up (only a very slight amount of pressure too early on the gear lever will do this). Wait just a little longer on your throttle blip before applying pressure with your boot.

Practice......

Otherwise, it's time to check the gear selector thingy for burrs or change oil.

Cheers,
Simon
 
on my yam WR4 simon, i could keep the throttle pinned and still kick up. i have also found that if i roll the throttle on coming out of a corner-nowhere near full power-then again it won't go through!

i also wondered if anyone has a later gearbox and has found it better than their '02 etc.

the gear selector was modified but as i understand it only to stop the 'binding' we '02 riders had on the selector arm.

i would love to get that sorted...

cheers anyway simon.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
on my yam WR4 simon, i could keep the throttle pinned and still kick up. i have also found that if i roll the throttle on coming out of a corner-nowhere near full power-then again it won't go through!

i also wondered if anyone has a later gearbox and has found it better than their '02 etc.

the gear selector was modified but as i understand it only to stop the 'binding' we '02 riders had on the selector arm.

i would love to get that sorted...

cheers anyway simon.

regards

Taffy

That's coz it was a yam gearbox Taffy! Breeds apart.

The 03 was just the same as the 01 and 02 with the hardened update for 04. It's always worth having a look as it not always a full bind, just gradually becomes more difficult to change gears when it wears.

Personally, I think it's down to technique rather than mechanical problems, the Husaberg gearboxes are very sweet :wink:

Simon
 
Taffy said:
you know, if i say i don't over rev my bike i'm not strictly telling the truth. i try not to overrev my bike but i can't change gear quick enough!

it is just ssoooooooo hard as i sit there foot pressing hard up, up and up and yet still the blinkin thing won't change gear.

i tend to blip the throttle to do it but as i open the throttle again i find i'm still in the same gear! it's alright at lower revs but at WOT it's nigh on impossible.

don't suppose anyone has a marvellous answer to this one?

regards

Taffy

Hi Taffy,
For Daytona I used an ignition kill triggered by the shift lever.
Said kill is adjustable in milliseconds. Just hold the throttle wide open and click up.

Dale
 
cheers dale

excellent item and idea. as seen on the GP circus i presume!

Taffy
 
I had a similar prob with my 99 i found i was starting to have to use the clutch to change it was then i remembered that i had some cheap oil in it that i was flushing it out with soon as i put the motul back in easy no clutch changes again

cheers doug
 
LINEAWEAVER said:
For Daytona I used an ignition kill triggered by the shift lever.
Said kill is adjustable in milliseconds. Just hold the throttle wide open and click up.

Dale

I have thought about this but how to make it reliable? On a street bike it's easier. In the forest you have mud, tree branches. stones etc. Locating the switch internal must be the best option but it will not be easy to do.
 
"Starlane" has a strain gage equipped shift lever. The system is pricey @ $500.00 plus US. I built a system from scrap leftover from an N2O equipped ZX12 project. Said system was exposed to horrible conditions (sand and mud) whilst in Daytona and performed flawlessly.

Hope this helps.

Kind Regards,
Dale
 
Taffy
Just give it time don't push it i am sure the extra time for a smooth change is less than that of a non change type effort.
My last two bikes where yams and i could hold pressure on the gear leaver until it hit the limiter where apon it would just slide into the next gear just like an auto box, my berg box was a real disappointment to start with but i can put up with it.
Many thanks for the exhaust, with that one and the innards i got from scoot i now have a very inoffensive kick *** 550 road bike :twisted: :evil:
Do you live any where near west raynham or is that along way away.
cookeye
:wink:
 
i'm quite a long way away but it's the scene of some very, very happy memories for me. i did three west raynham 500km although the last two were simply called the 4 hour becaus egreg page kept taking 15 minutes off the course record every year!

i believe there is a kind of club that meets and does SM practice there. correct?

taffy
 
Hi, Dale.

LINEAWEAVER said:
Starline in France has a strain gage equipped shift lever. The system is pricey @ $500.00 plus US. I built a system from scrap leftover from an N2O equipped ZX12 project. Said system was exposed to horrible conditions (sand and mud) whilst in Daytona and performed flawlessly.

Isn't it small deformations in the shift lever? Was it necessary to weaken the lever to get sufficient response from the strain gauge? I assume you glued it somewhere close to the base of the lever.

Do you know how the system works in general? Is it 5V to supply the gauge, a bridge to compensate the temperature dependency and a switch that trigs at a certain level which shortcuts the ignition?

Sincerely,
Mikael
 
Hi Mikael,
Such is not new technology as drag racers have been using similar hardware for the past three decades. What is unique regarding "Starlane" is its self contained and compact design. (ie read fragile and expensive)

The "Starlane" strain gage must be calibrated to each individual lever and is susceptible to damage. I simply figured I could accomplish the same objective using a more basic approach.

In my humble opinion and for what it may be worth: "Without compromise race bikes should remain simple". No Bling Bling if you will. I modified a drag bike system (Holeshot, MPS, etc.) to operate on a 9 volt battery via a spring loaded linkage. I did such as the complexity and expense of a "Starlane" system seemed overkill and potentially troublesome regarding our intended application.

Starlane Link:
http://www.starlane.it/Eng.htm

Best Regards,
Dale
 
Taffy said:
...the gear selector was modified but as i understand it only to stop the 'binding' we '02 riders had on the selector arm.

i would love to get that sorted...

Just to recount a story,
I too had the problem with a burred selector shift plate in my '02 FE400 and ended up replacing the offending item with a "spare" I still had from my '98 FE400.
Also changed oil every 500kms because I could feel the gears becoming harder to shift as I got to 400kms or so.

Feel like I'm trying to teach you to suck eggs Taffy; sorry. :?
 
not at all benk you're doing fine.

did changing it out make any difference?

regards

Taffy
 
Problem solved

I never had a shifter binding problem after swapping out the original plate, so it certainly appeared to do the job.
 
but benk we're on about two different things here aren't we?

i'm on about changing gear whilst on the power. you're on about binding gear changes.

close but as they say-no cigar

regards

Taffy
 

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