Carb Problem? Bike won't start

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L

loz16h

Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
231
Location
Vancouver Island BC
Having recently fitted a 39mm FCR MK1 it ran a bit off at low speeds so I've had the carb off to change some jets thus..

162 MJ
DMS needle, clip 3
38 PJ
PAS 3/8 out
PS 1½ out
200 MAJ

Took the APJ rod out so no squirt for tests (haven’t found the right widget to limit squirt)

I put the carb back on and now the bike won’t start. No signs of life…..

Figured I’d jammed the float or something daft so took the carb off again but sure enough, there was gas in the float bowl. While removing carb noticed that the carb rubber flange screws were only finger tight so maybe leaking air was the prob.

Put the carb back on and still no life. Gotta be something stupid. Check for a spark; all good. Still no starty. Bugger!

I'm at a loss and would appreciate some suggestions as to what might be going on.

I'm a little suspicious of the PAS as 3/8 out is not much and I'm not getting a good "feel" for when the screw is bottomed out. Could it be no air in the PA circuit?

Previous carb settings were..

178 MJ
Needle - OCEM S clip 3
70 PJ
PAS 2 out
PS 1/4 out
200 MAJ

Wanting to ride :(

Loz16H
 
RE: Carb Problem? Bike won

Not a clue mate, personally i'd put the AP rod back in and try that .... ? although someone may come and shoot me down for saying that and hopefully point you in the right direction
 
Re: RE: Carb Problem? Bike won

Hi Loz,

The settings you have now shouldn't stop it from firing up, when I ran the DMS needle I was on clip #2, 38PJ and ran the PAS at 5/8 out, 3/8 was to rich and the PS at 1 1/4 turns out, and no AP.
If you've got the spark then there is only one ingredient missing is the engine getting any gas?.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: Re: RE: Carb Problem? Bike won

try this: pull out on the lower rear of the right side of the gas tank and listen to whether or not the tank is hitting the throttle bell crank. you will hear the carb slide return to the stop if it is. with the mkI on my 650, i have to tilt the carb to the left to clear it.
or you can just have somebody push you down a hill, bumpstart it and get a thrill of a lifetime 8O
 
Thanks for the answers one and all.

One wheel; yeah I thought of that too. Logic says that it should not make any diference but some things defy logic right? I'll try it.

Sparks; I agree; it really should start. I need to check for gas in the combustion chamber. I tried sniffing the exhaust after kicking it for a minute or two and there was not much smell of gas so I do suspect lack of gas as the culprit but I don't get how I can have gas in the float bowl and not in the motor. Unless???????

Taffy; cryptic as ever :lol: You tell me what needle it is :?: Does it matter anyway?

Ned; You're thinking the slide may be jamming part open right? I don't think so but will check.

Thanks again. I'm off to the shed :roll:
 
Try a larger pilot jet mine would start on a 45 pilot but had very low idle and ran out of adjustment on idle screw put a 50 pilot in ran great and had adjustment back on idle screw.. Second thing i had a problem with was a broken valve spring was hard to start but did start but would not idle but ran ok on throttle and third thing was it broke the auto decomp spring would start but was a ***** to get it to start good luck.
 
I got it running by putting the old 70 PJ in place of the 38 PJ (don't have anything in between). I also set the PAS at 3/4 out. This was an error as it should be more like 2 turns out for a 70 PJ I reckon. Anyway it ran and a quick road test showed it to be very strong in the mid range but still a bit fluffy at low speeds.

It is still a little slow to return to idle and I think I need to look at the cables and bell crank on the carb. I suspect that the bell crank is rubbing on a fuel line and possibly the cables are a bit short. The throttle snaps back OK but I gotta be sure of this before I go further with jetting.

Good to have it running again tho and I'm liking the way this is heading. Cheers for the jet kit Taffy. :D
 
So I got out for a proper ride at the weekend. It pulls REAL hard once on to the needle and shows a marked improvement over my old needle / main combination. Nice one Taffy! It shows no hesitation and wheelies are a snap (pun intended). This is all with no pump squirt.

Low speed is still not right tho' and I'd be grateful for any comments. It still runs on a bit at idle and takes a few seconds to drop the last few hundred rpm. Starting is a little off. Otherwise great with no problem picking up revs quickly.

I don't think I have a cable issue and have tied back the fuel line.

I'm thinking that I should maybe go back to the 38PJ with more turns on the PAS cos it wouldn't start with the 38 PJ and 3/8 out PAS. I'm still not sure I got the PAS setting right at 3/8 out anyway. I'm just not confident that I had the feel for where the screw is bottomed out and find it easier to get the feel without the spring and then return the screw to that position with the spring.

But I'm also thinking that I should maybe try the 70 PJ with more turns (say 2 1/2) on the PAS before I go back to the 38 PJ.

I want to be methodical but I'm not sure which path offers greater promise.
 
loz

glad to hear that it's getting there. try and address me mate if you don't mind. it's my kit, me that put it together, me that sold it so i think it's me that should and can sort it.

suggest that you turn the PS out 1/2 and then 1 whole turn and see what happens. get it running right and then over a few days we'll get a feel for how it starts. i never used to panic. being british we have a very different view.

just build up the knowledge, try things.

regards

Taffy
 
Sure. No worries. I'm out this weekend so will make some adjustments and see how it goes.
 
Update

So a few weeks back now I decide to pull the carb off and put the 38 PJ back in and give it 1/2 turn on the PAS. Bike won't start again. Double bugger!!

A call to Taffy and we establish that my Mk1 FCR 39 has no choke jet, no choke button, just no choke. So I put the AP rod back on, give it a few squirts and she fires right up, for about 2 secs. More squirts and some quick throttle work and I can get it to stay running and warm her up.

Out on the trails it runs horribly untill fully warm and after some tweaking of the PS (2 turns) it runs pretty good. The high idle thing is gone and it stalls off a closed throttle a bit but otherwise pretty good.

So apart from updating inquiring minds I have a question; who ever heard of a FCR with no choke and why? I can start it and warm it up OK but it's a PITA and so I'm looking for better solutions.

Thinking I'll try a slightly larger PJ and / or lift the needle a clip.
 

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