bleeding 2006 450 fe clutch

When reading the manual for bleeding my clutch I have a couple of questions?

. Do you need a bleeder syringe? My nipple has a side opening at the bottom.

If I were to just turn th nipple 1/2 turn until fluid came out when clutch is compressed then use small rubber medical hose over a kitchen syringe . wouldn't I accomplish the same goal?

It also seems this would reduce any air or fluid loss when the bleeder syringe is removed.

Also on hydraulic clutch reservoir it said to use only mineral oil. In the manual it says do not use mineral oil?

Am I missing something here?

I am not sure I understand your question, but the procedure that you need to use is "back bleeding". You are forcing fluid up from the bleed screw to the master cylinder on top.

It is a simple procedure. Magura has an "official" kit, but I use a big syringe made to vaccinate livestock, and available at any farm and ranch store for just a few dollars.

Attach an appropriate length/size of clear tube to the syringe. It needs to fit tightly over the bleed nipple. Fill with your favorite fluid (no brake fluid!), make sure there are no air bubbles.

Open the bleed screw, make sure the cap is off the master cylinder reservoir, and push in the syringe handle to force the fluid up and through the system. Use some rags or paper towers around the top to catch the overflow, as it can get a bit messy. Make sure not to introduce any more air into the system from running out of fluid or from a loose fitting hose.

One shot is all it takes. Done properly it is a 5 minute procedure and it works like a charm.

On your question about the proper oil, use the Magura stuff if it makes you feel good. I can tell you from many years of experience that both 5w fork oil or ATF are equal replacements. Some take the "mineral oil only" deal literally and go buy mineral oil in a bottle from the drug store. There are many existing threads on that subject already, and it's been beat to death here and on other sites as well. Just don't ever use brake fluid in a Magura hydraulic clutch. My interpretation on Magura's description of "Mineral oil only" is that it means just don't use brake fluid.

thanks

I will start by saying I am the worlds worst mechanic!!!

i am bound and determined to take the time and fix my problems myself for no other reason than to become a better mechanic. (if I fail I am 10 min from Rick at Boss)

I used the proper magura magic oil. and used a setup that I figured was able to hold enough pressure and a large syringe.

If I removed the clutch line down into the unit fluid would flow easily through to the clutch cable opening.

My problem is I cant even get low pressure air back through the cable to th reservoir?

When I pull th clutch oil spews out of the clutch cable so I know th line is not blocked.

PROBLEM: when I put the cable back and put my cable oil insert with wiring back on I can not get anything to the reservoir applying even extensive pressure?

Re: thanks

parks said:

I will start by saying I am the worlds worst mechanic!!!

i am bound and determined to take the time and fix my problems myself for no other reason than to become a better mechanic. (if I fail I am 10 min from Rick at Boss)

I used the proper magura magic oil. and used a setup that I figured was able to hold enough pressure and a large syringe.

If I removed the clutch line down into the unit fluid would flow easily through to the clutch cable opening.

My problem is I cant even get low pressure air back through the cable to th reservoir?


When I pull th clutch oil spews out of the clutch cable so I know th line is not blocked.

PROBLEM: when I put the cable back and put my cable oil insert with wiring back on I can not get anything to the reservoir applying even extensive pressure?

Click to expand...

Why are you trying to force air up the clutch hydraulic line?

Anyway, it sounds like the clutch lever may be pushing in the master cylinder ever so slightly. If this happens, you will not be able to push the fluid up the line and out the master cylinder. Take the lever completely off and I bet you will have success.

Thanks to everyone

I was not forcing air up to the master cylinder. I had a smaller stainless dental syringe.
I removed the line that runs back up to the reservoir from the slave cylinder. The syringe it fit tightly in small opening and very secure. just for the sake of understanding how this process worked I tried just pushing the magura fluid up to the reservoir.
No matter how much pressure I applied no fluid or air came through the bore?
What confused me is when I removed the syringe and had my son pull the clutch lever oil would come out.

Again I am trying to do some mechanical on my own. I enjoy it because I always considered myself someone who could only screw in a light bulb.
I have been slowly growing confident with my bike. I have done some things that before December 2007 would have-scared the hell out of me. are there any more detailed manuals? Thanks to everyone you are great!!!

RE: Thanks to everyone

Hi All, hope things are well in UHE circles.
I thought I might just step in here as from what you have described has confused the hell outa me.
1) do not detach any lines.
2) remove the clutch master cylinder cover
3) use the syringe to REMOVE all oil from the resevoir
4)fit a suitable length of hose (100mm or so) tightly to the syringe
5) remove the dust cover from the slave cylinder
6)attach the hose to the nipple
7) using an appropriate open end spanner (8mm) turn the bleeder 1/4 turn -1/3 turn
8) making sure you have a full syringe (of oil or ATF or 5W fork oil) press down on the plunger firmly and you should see oil flow back inot the master reservoir.
If you do not get oil flowing into the reservoir do the following:
1)close the bleed nipple
2) prop up the syringe (or tape it to the frame or battery holder or similar so it doesnt fall over or off the bike)
3) remove the clutch lever, OR adjust the freeplay nut to allow the piston to fully locate back to its home position.
Note: you will not get oil flowing back into the reservoir unless this is in its fully "out" position, the piston will cover the hole and prevent oil flowing back inot the reservoir.
Once you have determined you have the piston in the fully out position the go back to releasing the bleed nipple and forcing oil back up the line.
When the reservoir is 2/3 full close the bleed nipple and try the clutch OR if bubbles are still appearing, keep forcing oil up the line till o bubbles are present.
Make sure you do not cause a spill over by removing oil via the syringe where necessary, (remove from hose AFTER locking down bleed nipple, and suck some more oil out of the master cylinder) repeat as necessary.
I find my clutch on a 06 FE550 needs bleeding if I leave it sitting for a month, go to use it and no clutch!
No worries takes 5 mins!
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Neil

Thanks,

With all that information and the time you took I should be able to solve this issue. Thanks so much!!

2 more questions.

I remembered right before this problem started I notices the nut to the small carb lever on the reservoir looked loose. I did not think this was a adjustment or had anything to do with clutch so I tightened it all the way up the threads too the reservoir. Would this cause any problems I am having?

What is the dust cover over the slave cylinder?

Thanks again for the help.

I notices the nut to the small carb lever on the reservoir

Click to expand...

??? carb lever? that should be the manual decomp lever and it should have play similar to what a cable clutch lever would have. your manual will tell you how to adjust it. you certainly don't want it too tight!

Sorry if I don't get everything described correctly I am at work and don't have my manual.

Yes, The decomp lever. I noticed the long nut looked like it was about to fall of because it was so far down the threads. I assumed it was a nut that held the cable to the reservoir so I tightened it all the way to the reservoir.

I was just questioning if tightening this nut would cause any issues I am having with clutch