best protection versus air flow to cool?

just wondering what the best protection is across that radiator? not worried about the beauty of it-just protection and letting air get through!

was told years ago that the exit was as important as the entry and that the entry should be smaller not larger than the CSA of the rad. :shock: :shock:

but as everyone knows the factory teams go for superbig sidepanels for extra cooling????

so, on a husaberg what are ALL the tips for keeping temperature down?

evans coolant? do we have a link for this?

a fine wire mesh over the front?

observation; i often find that the fuel tank has really put the squeeze on the waterhose on the left side.

plenty of oil helps and i suppose some material under the rad and around the headers is another?!?!

how much does the inline alloy tube cooler (radially finned) work?

i'm just trying to put it all together here?

regards

Taffy

I guess they don't have Google in Britain.

http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

Hi ya Taffy,

For years I have run a stamped aluminum guards with holes on my bikes, with the exception of my 94 & 1/2 501 as I couldn't find any. And I am thinking of buying a set of guards from Bozz.

I didn't really like the idea of those aluminum guards that look like the stock plastic ones, as I don't thing they could stop a branch or a stone large enough to punch a hole in the rad.

And you are absolutely right about the exit being bigger than the entry. Why? b/c the air expands as it is heated and as such a spatial differential is needed for a given mass of air.

I too have thought of running some weather striping or something like that to seal up the top portion of the radiator where it meets the shroud and the tank. I figured this would keep the air from "spilling" over the top.

I have noticed in the past that when you are moving slow, and have those aluminum type of guards, the bike will over heat more easily. So, it comes down to whether or not you mind blowing off a little steam once and a while, or getting a hole in rad, not notice it, and waste your engine. A stick throught the rad is my biggest worry. Sometimes in desert races you have to make/choose a more creative line to get by someone and that in turn will lead you through the greasewood bushes every now and again.

I run Engine Ice coolant. Mainly b/c it is propylene glycol which is not quite as toxic as the other stuff. Last time we were out riding I over heated my bike as well as another guy after an extremely difficult section. But the other bikes didn't over heat. My friends son (Matt) asked us two what kind of coolant we (the over heaters) were running, and we both had the same stuff in our bikes. While the other bikes had the other stuff and did not over heat. Matt said what he had noticed was that most of the time the bikes that over heat first are usually the ones with engine ice in them. Ironic, as the EI is supposed to make the bikes run cooler, go figure.

The evans site is pretty cool! no pun intended.

"Evans vs. General Motors! "

Ooh I like that without even reading it...

As far as I can tell, the Evans does not cool any better, in fact it may not transfer heat quite as well. The big advantage is that you will not boil over or cause cavitation in the water pump from boiling coolant. It also allows you to run at very low pressures. This is a plus as it puts less strain on gaskets and hoses. It's not likely you are going to blow a hose off the waterpump, something that has happened to me on a few occasions running Engine Ice.
I think there needs to be some caution running Evans. You need to be aware of how hot the bike is acually running. I personnaly have a good feel for it, but will eventually run some kind of temp guage.
If all goes well this weekend I will be running the BOSS radiator guards with the two 92mm cooling fans. The billet finned inline cooler. Evans coolant. And last but not least,the Lineaweaver jet and needle kit. The ambient temp should be around 90 degrees, thus making for a good test.

I have thought about adding rat wire on the front for protection. Little square holes smaller than your little finger. It`s tough stuff since a rat is not supposed to chew through it, cheap too. Figuring out a way to mount it has been interesting though .

hey bill got a pic of that "rat wire" if you add it snap a pic and
post I would really like to see it

eman369 said:

hey bill got a pic of that "rat wire" if you add it snap a pic and
post I would really like to see it

Click to expand...

You can find it at a hardware store or another place that sells barbed wire, chicken wire and other fencing supplies. Very tough stuff. I don`t have the means to take pic and post it. Sorry

air flow vs protection

I too have used the radiater gaurds with the stamped holes, the results were a bike that tended to overheat in the mud or technical sections. When I started to work on making the gaurds on my Berg, I did some thinking about how much air goes through a 5/16" hole. While looking at the gaurds on my KTM, it was clear that the gaurds were more of an air dam than anything. After some time with a paper and pencil, I made a template from construction paper, test fit on the Berg and thought about how to best get maximum air without sacrificing protection. The end result was the diagonal slots. The diagonals offer the most open area for air to pass through, allows mud to slide off and if a stick heads in there the diagonal slots will deflect better than vitical or horizontal slots. The end result of my work impressed Boss enough, that he is using my design for his gaurd. I extended the gaurd behind the shroud to offer protection on the side of the radiater and help seal the air so it would go through the radiater and not around it. As I see it, the tight fit of the gas tank is hindering air flow more than any thing. I use water wetter in my bike and it does not over heat. The radial in line gizmos are a simple heat sink and should work, I would avoid the rat screen, as it will trap mud in front of the radiater and block air flow. Sorry to be long winded, blame Taffy..he asked!

Hi Gang,

I recently adapted a set of B&B WR250 guards to my 98 FE501. Very solid and substantial. http://www.bbaluminium.com/WR4_rads.jpg
The pic doesn't highlight the open mesh behind the louvres.

Works well so far.

Steve

I had aluminium guards on my '00 501 but was told not to put them on my new '05 550 because it will make the bike overheat. THe 501 never got hot (except when idling for long periods), so what's the difference?

Also has anyone setup a temperature light on a 'Berg. The KTM LC4 had them as standard and they would be a good idea for Husaberg's (especially for hot climates of Australia). My current temperature gauge is to cut the overflow tube off 3 inches below the radiator so you can see the end of it in the normal riding position or feel it if it turns to steam.
Cheers
Mark

interesting views.

the diagonal OEM louvres allow the most air through for sure, not quite sure what is meant by "not horizontal, not vertical but diagonal" by bendberg so i'd better look at a set of boss's guards and figure what they do.

the evans sounds good because like berger says-it won't cavitate right where it's meant to be picking up heat from the engine!

have none of the yanky mags done a good article on this? back-to-back testing?

nobody worries about heat transfer from the headers and nobody has mentioned bleeding the system at the screw between the two headers. now that did suprise me!

nobody mentioned different pressure caps and their effect on this? does it keep things under wraps (in which case a higher pressure cap must be good news) or does it hide several sins?

for me, you can't beat the original OEM louvres but they're an appalling design around the downtube of the frame! it's as though this area needs attention.

regards

Taffy

I have considered wrapping the headers, but have not come up with a suitible material. I am also worried that it will actually retain more heat.

As far as the 04/05 bikes go you MUST use the bleed screw on the top of the head to remove all of the air from the system.

Hey Taffy, take a look at the Boss gaurds and you will see what I am talking about in regaurds to the diagonal slots. I did not know about a bleed screw between the head pipes! Do the older models have that? Heat transfer from the headers is an issue mabey, but is a condition that we can not really do anything about. As Berger mentioned wrapping the head pipes( this helps performance also I believe.). I do not know of a product that would take the abuse of off-road conditions, and do not know if the pay back would be worth the effort. The radiater cap is set at opening at a specific pressure for a reason, so upping the cap pressure rating is a band-aid fix at best. The best way to keep your bike cooled down is to jet it properly, keep it clean, and fresh oil. How bout you Taff? you do a lot of experimenting what have you found?

i'm just sucking it in for now. yet again the little 'un doesn't seem to suffer so much. we're all forgetting that husaberg did summink about it to the cylinder head or gasket in '03 or '04 plus (can't be bothered to check the doc!) and so we should take a note of that. what they actually did hasn't been clarified on our hallowed pages. as usual it's left to a small minority to work it all out, put it down in a concise package to hear that immortal phrase- "huh?".

i notice that i have one head-the BV head-that has all four areas open to coolant whilst the SV heads have only three bays open and not even bothering with the inlet on the right area.

the correct plug helps a great deal, most of all compression, by far the most is compression/ignition advance combined.

jetting; 800d they should run at but will run at 1300d if running lean.

but it's getting the air through and the heat out that most interests me.

regards

Taffy

Thanks Taffy, I'll brush up on my proper english and get back to you on the first part of that reply. When you refer to 800d and 1300d, I really,really, hope you are refering to celsius! :eep:

BendBerg said:

I did not know about a bleed screw between the head pipes! Do the older models have that?

Click to expand...

The coolant air bleed was introduced in 04.

the earlier engines have what appears to be a grub screw between the two headers so i think i at least have one as well!

regards

taffy

I thought that with everything else equal you was wanting to to know what would keep boulders, fence posts and such from going through your raditator. That was my line of thought, if I miss understood I`m sorry. The way I understand it you had better be very careful what you put in front and the rear or else you might have overheating.