Battery woes please help

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jcb

Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
12
Location
Melbourne
Hi all
Need some advice (new to the forum and the world of husaberg).
I seem to be having issues with the battery on my 2006 FS 650e, if I ride the bike daily I have no issues with starting the bike but if I have anymore than 2 days between rides it will not start.
I t just clicks until I recharge the battery again, at which point it starts first time.
Everything is standard on the bike except the exhaust and was well looked after by its previous owner & I have done less than 200ks on it so far (no racing just street).
I ran a multimeter on the terminal when the bike is off and get a reading of 12.47v from the battery and between 13.8 and 14.2 when bike is on.
Do I need a new battery ?? or is this normal, from reading the threads and reading the manual it appears that the nature of these battery's is to discharge when not ridden for some time.. but a few days does not seem normal, is there some other tests I can do with the battery to determine if its life's on edge.
Any advice would be brilliant and please be aware I'm not very mechanical minded.

Ta.
 
Your charging system seems to be charging fine when the bike is running. It is possible to test batteries, but I think you trying to start it is a better test. You could do one (or both) of the following things to solve the problem:
a) buy a Battery Tender and keep it connected to the battery whenever you're not using the bike (not a regular charger).
b) buy a battery from Taffy, who has found a really good one with much more available cranking amps.
 
Not sure if charger is tender mode.

Thanks for that but I'm not sure if the battery charger is a battery tender one as I have never seen any chargers in the stores with tender on them (Live in Melbourne Australia), i.e its a new calibre 6amp/12 volt 2 mode fully automatic pulse charge system battery charger that has 3 stages.

1 is bost stage where the charger delivers bulk charging up to 6amps and when the voltages rises to 14.2 volts and the batery is 85% recharged the charger automatically switches to the charge stage.

2, charge stage, the charger output voltage is kept at 14.2 volts for up to 6 hours or until the charging current drops to 600 mA (depending on battery capacity), teh charger output voltage will drop to 13.2 V and then switch to "float charge"

3, float stage, The battery charger output current is reduced. teh battery is brought up to 100% recharged state and is constantly maintained at this level.

Is this a Battery tender or just a plain charger.
 
Sounds like you are ready for a battery.
I keep all my bikes on an Optimate battery charger when not in use. The Optimate does a better job then the Battery Tender as it will cycle the voltage. Just install the supplied pigtail so it just takes a secont to plug and unplug the unit.
 
Re: Not sure if charger is tender mode.

jcb said:
Thanks for that but I'm not sure if the battery charger is a battery tender one as I have never seen any chargers in the stores with tender on them (Live in Melbourne Australia), i.e its a new calibre 6amp/12 volt 2 mode fully automatic pulse charge system battery charger that has 3 stages.

1 is bost stage where the charger delivers bulk charging up to 6amps and when the voltages rises to 14.2 volts and the batery is 85% recharged the charger automatically switches to the charge stage.

2, charge stage, the charger output voltage is kept at 14.2 volts for up to 6 hours or until the charging current drops to 600 mA (depending on battery capacity), teh charger output voltage will drop to 13.2 V and then switch to "float charge"

3, float stage, The battery charger output current is reduced. teh battery is brought up to 100% recharged state and is constantly maintained at this level.

Is this a Battery tender or just a plain charger.

That looks like what you want.
 
I think thats the one I have

Berger
That's the charger I have!, so am I correct that the calibre charger I have is already a battery tender or does the same thing and if this is the case all I need to do Is attach it to the bike when not in use i.e every night, and is it ok to do this when the battery is also attached to the bike as it would be a major pain if I had to unplug the battery from the bike every night.

Thanks you all for the prompt replys.
 
RE: I think thats the one I have

Hi JCB !
You might comes with drain of batterys, possibly through corrosion in connectors, swithes, etc.Check what sort of current flows in your leads when ign. is off.The only permanently live unit is speedo, but it pulls just the milli amps.Don't forgett that amperometer needs to be plugged in-line, i.e. between battery lead end and battery terminal (doesn't make any diff. is it positive or negative terminal).If any wiring or electric unit got moisture, it could very slowly drain your batts.It's worth to check, I reckon.
 
RE: I think thats the one I have

i had a yuasa ytz7s in my 650 that began giving me starting probs after only about 6 mos. i was able to determine it was bogus by giving it a full charge on the tender and hooking up a 100w halogen lamp to it while reading voltage. compared to a similar battery in my 450, it showed a larger voltage drop (around 9v compared to 11.5v). replacement generic bat solved the problem.
 
RE: I think thats the one I have

Sounds like you have a bad battery. Your battery with the engine off should be 12.6-13 volts if you were just riding the bike. Another test you could due to confirm the bad battery would be to ride it for the day after sitting about an hour disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and test the voltage, the next morning check the voltage again to see if it has dropped. If the voltage dropped below 12.6 volts over night the battery is bad.
 
Thanks for your Help

Cheers Lads, I'll take all the advice I can get, one small note when keeping the battery on a nightly float charge do I have to disconnect the battery from the bike ?

Thanks again
 
thank you all

Brilliant!

Thanx a lot everyone....much appreciated.
 
Re: RE: I think thats the one I have

Krisbrumm said:
Hi JCB !
You might comes with drain of batterys, possibly through corrosion in connectors, swithes, etc.Check what sort of current flows in your leads when ign. is off.The only permanently live unit is speedo, but it pulls just the milli amps.Don't forgett that amperometer needs to be plugged in-line, i.e. between battery lead end and battery terminal (doesn't make any diff. is it positive or negative terminal).If any wiring or electric unit got moisture, it could very slowly drain your batts.It's worth to check, I reckon.
Before you throw money at it - perhaps at the wrong thing - do the test Kris mentioned.

What you are looking for is current (often referred to as power or even "juice") flowing out of the battery when everything is supposed to be turned off.

You will need a multimeter that can measure current. Start on the 10 or 20 amps range. If you get little or no reading, reduce the range to measure milliamps (thousandths of an amp). The bike should draw less than a few milliamps with everything switched off. A draw of 100 milliamps (ie 0.1 amp) will flatten a fully charged battery in about two days.

As Kris mentioned, remember that to measure current draw you need to disconnect a battery lead and hook the meter between the battery terminal and the end of the lead - ie in series with the battery.

The instant you have finished measuring current, make sure you plug the meter leads back into the volt test point!!! If you don't, chances are next tome you go to test a voltage you will either blow the fuse in the meter or fry the current section of the meter!!! :cry:
 
How in Gods name do I get the battery out?

Been trying to get the battery out of the bike to no avail.I take it I'm supposed to move the rear suspension out of the way, yes, No and if this is the case do I need to wind the suspension all the way down first ?.
Cheers
 
Re: How in Gods name do I get the battery out?

jcb said:
Been trying to get the battery out of the bike to no avail.I take it I'm supposed to move the rear suspension out of the way, yes, No and if this is the case do I need to wind the suspension all move way down first ?.
Cheers

remove seat, back fender splash panel, top shock bolt, and swing shock out of the way, and then remove the bottom bolt to get it 100% out of the way.
you maybe able to leave the bottom in and just swing it but i prefer to remove stuff vs fighting it. thats what relationships are for.
obviously, you have to support the bike like with a stand under the engine or a strap from the ceiling.
you dont have to touch the spring to move it about or remove it.

also, i think you have a drain.
it can be caused by a bad battery or something else.
the poor man's multimeter is a spark.
with it all back together, but the positive loose, tapping the positive cable to the battery should yield no spark.

tuts
 
Broken Battery holder

managed to to get the battery out but somehow managed to break the holder, I called up dealer to get a price on new one they said $169 Australian, think I'll try and solder it.
any idea what the material is made from ?.
 
It appears to be steel. A gas or mig welder should do.

You can also remove the starter and take the battery out the other end if that is easier for you.
 
Its steel, mine boke a while back but easily fixed with a brace welded over the break.
 
JCB - where abouts in Oz are you? Put it in your account details.

If you are near Newcastle I can weld it up for you. I don't think solder is an option for a battery box.
 
Using meter

BundyBear, Concerning the meter readings.

After I remove the positive lead from the battery, what meter lead do I put on what end, i.e the red to the positive on the battery and the black from the meter on the end of the lead.
 

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