Battery and Hi-low!

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B

boheme

Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
137
Location
North of Stockholm, Sweden
Hi Husabergers!

This might have been up before, but I can´t find it!

When you charge your battery, do you remove in from your bike or do you charge it still mounted on the bike?

I read in some earlier question that you recommended a optimate III charger and I now I´ve bought one! But in their instructions they recommend that you remove the battery when you charge it.

On my Husaberg 501 ´01 that´s quite hard.


And then another question, when you start the bike.... does it matter wether you are in Hi or Low mode?

thanks

Rikard
 
rikard

i undo the connections to the battery-that is all that is needed.

i'm sure it doesn't matter whether you are in 'hi' or 'lo' as the change in the advance only happens after idle.

regards

Taffy
 
Rikard,

If your new charger is anything like my 'Buddy Battery Tender' it came with a harness pigtail you attach to the battery and leave attached while the battery is in the bike. I just hook up to the harness plug with the charger while the bike is in the garage and leave it charging that way until the next ride.

Joe
 
Technically, the book says that one should use "HI" when starting.

-Parsko
 
You do not need to remove the battery. As Joe says, hook up the pig tail to your batter.

The simple "mod" that pretty much everybody does is to attach the connector under the rear fender. That way, when you roll your bike in your garage, you simply connect the battery tender or your Optimate.

For this incredibly complicated mod, you only need a philips screw driver and a zip tie. Make sure to insert something like another zip tie to hold the little rectangular bolts in your battery connectors in place.

You will understand when you do it.
 
Boheme:

I think that the battery only needs to be removed if it is deeply discharged. The Optimate increases the charging voltage to desulfate the battery and if it detects electrical componentry it will not raise the charge voltage. For regular charging you should have no problem leaving the battery in.

If the battery drops way down in voltage it may never take a charge again. Always keep the charger plugged in when the bike is not in use.
 
Thank you very much guys!

As always you´re there with good answers, simple things to you are very useful information to a beginner mechanic like me!

Thanks again.

And I guess it won´t be the last time you get stupid questions from me, so I hope you keep up the good work.


I don´t know what ziptie is, but I guess it´s those plastic things that locks themeselves.

Rikard aka boheme
 
I just got back from the track this last two days and have been experimenting....when on HI the bike seems to start easier (as per manual) also mid to wot throttle it seems to pull alittle harder....not alot but enough to notice....
 
aboodaba blooo baaaaah

Brian, you might need to recalibrate the seat of your pants ;)

IIRC, Dale and a few others(whose name escape me at this early hour) who have tested the ignitions said that the Hi-Low made no difference in ignitioin until 2300 rpm.

We might be speaking of apples & tangelos though, due to year changes. I can't seem to recall now what year we're talking about. I'm gonna go get some coffee :D

thanks,
json
 
Yes, that is true Schwim. But, these bikes idle relatively high. Rememeber seeing 1500-1700RPM on this site somewhere. Anyway. They redline at +10000RPM. Idle to 2300 RPM is not much, maybe 1/4 of a second off the line. In the trails, you probably are above this even when just chuggin through the woods.

I noticed, when in Allegheny, that lo was particularly good for low end, where torque was needed. It seemed to keep the bike from stalling when going through rocks and such. Hi, good at high speeds, and starting.

Rob (oneloudskunk), only used HI, until I told him to try low in said conditions. He agreed that it made a difference.

HI- Ignition fires later, or closer to TDC. This gives less time for the explosion to act on the piston. Hence why good at higher speeds. Also good for starting because the explosion is happened at a point that is less likely to reverse the motor and break your leg.
LO- Ignition fires earlier. Longer time for the explosion to act on the piston. Yields more torque. Good low speeds. Bad for starting, break leg.

I am sure someone will confirm or deny this. But, I am pretty sure that I'm right. And yes, they very well could be identical up to 2300RPM, for all I know. But, I did notice it made a difference riding and starting. Regardless of what Dale says (No offense man!).

-Parsko
 
In tight woods go LO!!!

I noticed a HUGE difference in my '02 FE501e, as Parsko mentioned previously. If you've been running in HI all the time, switch to LO when in the tight stuff. You will be shocked & awed at what these 'bergs can do.

As for starting, it's much easier in HI.

You won't notice much difference on the track. That is why I was running in HI when Parsko & I rode Allegheny. I had been testing on tracks & high speed areas previously. I even ran HI all through Hat/McC last Memorial Day!!! Can't wait to see how she does on the East Force Ride runnin' LO. This monster should eat through some of those hills & single tracks like a bulldozer.
 
oh boy :)

hi guys,

I wasn't speaking of anything other than starting, and my bike corroberates all of the known technical data, and that's unless I'm kicking my bike faster than 2300 rpm(which I'm not), then I could put the switch in either position and it would all be the same to the clam. I must mention however that my seat of the pants is very poor at manipulating data that it receives ;)

Take into account the intricacies of the ignition systems(plus the fact that they are built by the cheapest bidder), and I would bet money that there will be variances enough to make a difference concerning switch position on some bikes while not on others.

As I've always believed, regardless of whether you've received the placebo or not, if you feel that it's working, then it's done it's job.

thanks,
json
 
Parsko said:
Yes, that is true Schwim. But, these bikes idle relatively high. Rememeber seeing 1500-1700RPM on this site somewhere. Anyway. They redline at +10000RPM. Idle to 2300 RPM is not much, maybe 1/4 of a second off the line. In the trails, you probably are above this even when just chuggin through the woods.

I noticed, when in Allegheny, that lo was particularly good for low end, where torque was needed. It seemed to keep the bike from stalling when going through rocks and such. Hi, good at high speeds, and starting.

Rob (oneloudskunk), only used HI, until I told him to try low in said conditions. He agreed that it made a difference.

HI- Ignition fires later, or closer to TDC. This gives less time for the explosion to act on the piston. Hence why good at higher speeds. Also good for starting because the explosion is happened at a point that is less likely to reverse the motor and break your leg.
LO- Ignition fires earlier. Longer time for the explosion to act on the piston. Yields more torque. Good low speeds. Bad for starting, break leg.

I am sure someone will confirm or deny this. But, I am pretty sure that I'm right. And yes, they very well could be identical up to 2300RPM, for all I know. But, I did notice it made a difference riding and starting. Regardless of what Dale says (No offense man!).

-Parsko
Click to expand...


I "think" you are correct....I also found that reving the engine off idle would kill the engine on high, put it on low and it was fine....????
I did just get a FCR41 installed....?
 
Hi and Low!

Hallo again!

Now I´ve tried the switch quite a lot since I asked the question and I must say that, at least it feels, like low are good for small, tricky, narrow tracks when you need to go slower and still have power and Hi is moore useful when the track opens up and you can get your throttle higher!


At least I had a lot of fun trying...

/rikard
 
just to clear this one up a bit for me;

where in the manual did ya see the recommended starting position parsko?

if it's pointing at LO, you're in Lo and all ya can see is Hi-right?

when flicking the switch with the strobe working json, you can see the flywheel visibly at a totally different point. this is at tickover fellas so the stuff about 2,300-well-you know....

i dynos the two settings and despite the broshure blurb that the difference was only at low revs, i can report that in LO i gained at the bottom and lost at the top relevant to the HI position.

i'll put that in the next owners doc.

regards

Taffy
 
'03 owners manual, pdf page 15, Husaberg page 14, figure 5J, about 25% of the way down on the page. :shock: :shock: :)
-Parsko
 

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