Bar Clamp adj - what effect?

awilksch · Jul 25, 2007

Hi All,

Just contemplating what happens when you move the bar clamps from the neutral position either forward or backward, is there any discenable difference in handling?

any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers!

Azza.

steve · Jul 25, 2007

Hi Azza

You'll end up with what seems like head shake as the leverage effect occurs. try it, and you'll discover! A general rule of thumb is get an imaginary line through the ends of the bars intersecting with the steering head axis. Significantly fore or aft and it'll get harder to hang on.

Steve

awilksch · Jul 25, 2007

So, with the bars forward or aft, the offset creates more feedback from the deflection of the front wheel?

I had assumed that there may be more resistance against deflection by the greater offset??

Azza.

Gokai134 · Jul 26, 2007

My advice:
Try as many different positions as possible :lol:

But letÃ‚Â´s get back to bar clamps:
the more away the clamps are mounted(in riding directions) from the "steering-nut"(hope itÃ‚Â´s the right word?),
the more inaccurate the riding becomes, the feeling for the bike becomes strange ,
riding straight feels like having a flat tire, thereÃ‚Â´s a strange "roll" from the front end
itÃ‚Â´s very hard to hold the inner line, or even worse - you canÃ‚Â´t find the entrance for the inner line.

the closer the mounts are mounted to the steering nut (sometimes even behind the nut), the easier it becomes,
feeling is way better for the front wheel.

Believe me, thereÃ‚Â´s a huge difference beetwen the different mounting positions of the bar mounts and the bar position itself.

But, as I said already: itÃ‚Â´s better to try as many position as possible

Waiting for some feedback

Taffy · Jul 26, 2007

Bars lifted 1.5"
Large alloy spacers. If you have the bars at the standard height it can get hairy on fast runs on rough ground, raising them 1"-1.5" helps with control. However the bars can be very tiring in woods due to a) being so wide and the rider moving for and aft when turning and b) the throwing left to right and trying to avoid trees with a wide bike. Try taking 3/4-1" off each end for a less tiring ride, keeping them low and hanging on down the straight! With high bars your inside leg can get up Ã¢â‚¬Ëœn forward in corners. Note: remember that this takes weight OFF the front.

from the doc.

this is for the risers but in my opinion they are linked.

second point is that the ex bars are awful unless you're a girl or a tiny bloke with tiny narrow shoulders!

the X bars which have been standard for 2-3 years are far better.

i found that if you have the bars forward you can end up like the nodding dog! tucked under you isn't any better on tight stuff in the woods.

i found that when i didn't feel strong i had the bars forward and up.

i have got a thread on the subject somewhere i think.

my latest set up is:
1.5" spacers
set in the holes nearer to me but with the eccentrics turned so that the bars are away from me.
X bars
3/4" lobbed off each end (best mod i've ever done)
bars tilted up and forward more than natural

regards

Taffy

DaleEO · Jul 26, 2007

My two cents...

My current set up is with a Scott's sub mount for my steering stabilizer and the bars all the way forward. The sub mount raises the bars 1" http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php . I also have a GUTS tall soft seat. I'm 6'1" tall.

I ride mainly open terrain that is usually kind of fast, but, do spend a fair amount this time of year in the tree's.

Either way, my riding style is to be standing most of the time in the attack position. I like having the bars forward and up as it gives me more room to move around, and that set up works good for long hours on the pegs crossing valley's.

Having the bars forward let's you get up on the tank to get weight on the front end which helps a lot with corner entry. The only problem with having the bars raised is that it tends to make the bike want to stand up in the middle of the corner when you applying the throttle, through the slower corners. Through the faster corners where you are standing, having the ability to move your weight forward makes the turning much easier and you can adjust the bite the front is getting by how much you lean forward.

Now all I need is to get some pegs that are a bit lower so my legs aren't so scrunched up when I am sitting.

awilksch · Jul 28, 2007

Thanks Gents,

Though all of the suggested alterations seem as if they would be counter productive, through reducing the amount of leverage the rider has on the bars.

I have pondered getting bar risers, but have found them hard to get at the shops I can access in South Oz, I will try to get some next time in the city.

Taffy, which mod do you feel is most productive to start with? the 1" risers or narrowing the bars?

Also, the X bars you refer to are the stock Maguras I assume.

So far I have found my Bergs handling to be awesome, and am slowly getting over the front end push issue, more to do with rider imput than bike set up I've found, however unlike yourself Dale EO, I am only 5'10" and spend lots of time in the saddle, the berg rides extremely well, I only have to hover over the seat for technical sections and creek beds, rock fields and jumps, my mate that I ride with stands everywhere...

Mental note - must attempt more positions.

Cheers fellas!

Azza.

ford832 · Jul 28, 2007

Oddly enough,my setup is identical to Taffy's 8O .Whenever I get a new set of bars/bike I always try them first the stock length as there is more leverage this way and most people say this is a better setup but I always end up blistering my "thumb knuckles" on the grip flanges-I assume from subconciously trying to get my hands farther in on the bars while riding so I always end up cutting them off.I mostly ride standing up so this arrangement suits but it may not be ideal for sit down riding.I'm 5'10" as well.

DaleEO · Jul 28, 2007

awilksch said:
Thanks Gents,

Though all of the suggested alterations seem as if they would be counter productive, through reducing the amount of leverage the rider has on the bars.

I have pondered getting bar risers, but have found them hard to get at the shops I can access in South Oz, I will try to get some next time in the city.

Taffy, which mod do you feel is most productive to start with? the 1" risers or narrowing the bars?

Also, the X bars you refer to are the stock Maguras I assume.

So far I have found my Bergs handling to be awesome, and am slowly getting over the front end push issue, more to do with rider imput than bike set up I've found, however unlike yourself Dale EO, I am only 5'10" and spend lots of time in the saddle, the berg rides extremely well, I only have to hover over the seat for technical sections and creek beds, rock fields and jumps, my mate that I ride with stands everywhere...

Mental note - must attempt more positions.

Cheers fellas!

Azza.

You say that you have a front end push issue? Try adding one turn of pre load to your shock and see what happens. These bikes are very sensitive to ride height adjusments, you'll be amazed at what effect one turn of pre load has either way once your in the sweet spot so to speak.

After you have tried the pre load change, you might try raising your fork tubes 10mm's. There are three lines on the tubes I believe each one is 5mm apart. It's easy to change this setting, so you might try going to the lowest line and see what happens.

Also moving the bars forward allows you to get up over the front better. The proper position to be in entering turns is to have your "package" about the width of your fist (pinkie to index finger) from the gas cap, and your chin over the center line of the bars. Ball of the outside foot on the outside peg, outside knee on the radiator shroud.

As far as the leverage thing goes with moving the bars, that might be true, however, IMHO you should not limit yourself based on theory. Try the different settings ONE AT A TIME, and see what happens. Spend a day trying different set up's over the same section and note the changes.

Bar Clamp adj - what effect?

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