Bad Starter Clutch? (99 FE501e)

Hello,
I just picked up my first bike and first Burger.

I have what appears to be common: Bad E starter.

Word on the street is: Get parts from Taffmeisters.
Replace Starter Sprauge + spring
Replace Decompressor spring.
Replace Starter clutch???

Then I get confused.
Not all of Taffy's parts fit the '99.
Do i need a decompressor spring + weight??? or just a spring??? (Why are both options offered?)
Do i need to replace the cam???
Iv'e herd the "99 cam can be remachined? (I can turn it down myself at no cost) What are the differences? Specs?

Are there other benefits to replacing the cam with one of a later year?

Replacing the starter clutch looks pretty invasive. (I'm not scared). I'm a mechanic by trade just haven't pulled wrenches on a motorcycle yet.)
If this issue is common, Is there a writeup some where?

Can this be done on the bike?

I found the owners manual, service manual, and parts catalouge.

I believe the starter sprauge is item 29 in this drawing.



BUT the parts break down does skips items 26 thru 30. WTF???
http://the4strokers.tripod.com/images/spares2000/crankcase_left_parts01.gif

What special tools do i need??? Flywheel puller?

I have also read about replacing the aluminum cam sprocket with a steel one. True Story?

Upgrade to roller rocker tappets?

Any other weak points on the this bike?

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this forum!!!

Hi mate,
Someone with more knowledge on the 501 will chime in soon, I've got a later 650 so my advice is limited. Good news is these bikes are stupidly simple and easy to work on so you won't have trouble there.

To get to the Sprague the clutch basket needs to come out, just bend the locking tabs up, jam a rag into the gears and wrench it free. There might be a better way to do this, but it works for me! I'm not sure if it applies to you, but be careful with the water pump seals when you rip the side cover off.

I've heard that the sprocket replacement is a worthy upgrade to the old bikes, and that kind of information is worth listening too. Like my dual valve spring kit.

For your starter issues, they can be fixed with quite a bit of time and effort to beef up and rebuild the whole starting system. I tried with some success to get mine working but ended up ripping the entire system out, including battery and associated wiring. Best thing I ever did. Do you really want to spend the cash to do it? The starters were designed poorly in my opinion, and added as an afterthought. My bike starts first kick hot or cold.

Imagine if you spent the money on a keihin flatside carb!

keep in mind your year model is totally different than the troublesome '01-'03 engines. the solution for those bikes will not be the same for yours and a lot of the parts for yours are VERY hard to find.

the auto decomp weight that waorks is fitted to the 2004-2008 bikes. even then it had a weak spring. that weak spring is about the only item they got wrong on the 2004-2008 years. that and valve springs that are too strong (read below).

so those with a 2004-2008 only need the spring!

if you have a 1997-2000 or even, the 2001-2003 you need the decomp AND the modified spring.

the 1997-2002 (early production as opposed to the second half of production) bikes had a very thick cam shoulder that sat flush with the very thick alloy cam sprocket. when the thinner steel sprocket is fitted the shoulder through the middle is then 2mm proud. no problem in itself except that that later decomp can't reach into the exhaust lobe to decomp. it is 2mm too short....or if you grind the 2mm off the shoulder, the later decomp then fits nicely.

there is no real lobe/timing difference in your cam and anything KTM did later. but a later KTM cam can be a lot cleaner on the lobes, have the later auto decomp and comes with a new seal holder and shorter bolts. you have to change the cam sprocket over and get a modified spring otherwise it is go, go, go!

the reason you would change sprockets BTW is for no other reason than the fact that KTM run a different pitch of chain.

you already have cam follower bearings. these used to need replacing regularly if oil changes aren't done too often. but the real answer is that Husaberg, who fitted twin springs per valve until 1998 suddenly stopped and put colossally heavy single springs in. single springs 1999 to 2008.

these are the cause of much clatter, wear, noise, and you name it. just not good.

any good work starts with a set of these dual valve springs.

as for the sprague
it is inside your crankcases. that means splitting the engine. you need just a flywheel puller for this as regards a special tool.

be aware that the sprague runs inside a gear, a female gear and it can wear badly. I have had these made and have one left. they aren't cheap but there is no mass production in this process I'm afraid. I had just the two made.

the starter motor would be fine but the trouble is, hardly anyone I meet can set them up. everyone is a mechanic yadda, yadda, yadda.....................................

the ignition timing is always set wrong, the white line needs to be 1mm to the left of centre and not centre.

an iridium plug

the carb needs a full refurbishment. it also won't start with the on/off choke, a variable choke that you control works wonders. even then the jetting is often wrong in 1997-2000 but not as bad as the 2001-2003 were.

get the valves sitting sweatly, a DVSK kit in there, a later ADC and spring, an iridium plug, the right ignition timing, the right carburation and the bike will start on the button.

I did a collosal 2,000gbp rebuild for a Canook and his started on the button first time (and then his tappets went out of tune etc etc......) but it is an on going work of art to keep them going in good shape.

regards

Taffy

Hi

Concerning the autodecomp, you can get the harder spring or better the spring and the latter autodecomp.

The cam I wouldn't change it, if it´s good leave it there.

To get to the sprag, in this bikes, you will have to open the cases not just the clutch cover.
You may try to get a harder or shorter spring, but remember if you get it wrong you will have to open everything again

The sprag for you bike is the same as the 2008 KTM, it might the cheaper there ??

Good luck


ZAGA

Starter Sprague is in the cases? Wow, I had no idea they were so different. Sounds like a right pain, all the more reason to not bother

I think i will get my auto decomp and kick start dial in and ride it or the rest of the summer.

Then tackle the starter sprauge next winter.

Taff sold me some kind of double spring for the 99 starter sprauge. Maybe he can explain that.

your sprgue is larger than the 2001-2008 bikes. by about 15% so I add 20% of one spring to another complete spring join them up and fit them to a new sprague.

I'm working on the basis that if the later bikes suffer from a weak spring then probably so do the earlier ones.

Taffy