back up and running!... well for 10 mins :(

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Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Messages
56
Location
Ireland
after several hours yesterday and today i got my berg back together.
It is now flushed of all the sealant that caused the blockages. It has new C4 stronger main bearings, sprag clutch and had the ok from mechanic.
It thankfully spluttered into life this evening.
I took it gently 200 yards down the road intending on dropping oil on return. I got to the turnaround point and had 1st engaged with clutch in as i waited on passing traffic. I revved it slightly and it lept forward as clutch suddenly disengaged and it died. I started it again and it would appear clutch wont engage. I pushed it back and into the garage. I then noticed that the resevoir cover had 1 screw loose. I am hoping it is the culprit but am unsure. I have taken the lower housing off to inspect and am intending on bleeding the system. I have no experience with these things at all. I did a bit of research and I see that using the syringe method seems best via back bleeding. Is it possible to bleed by raising the housing above the resevoir and pumping without syringe? As that would be my only option until tomorrow.
My main question is.. how much should the pushrod extend out of the housing (from fully in) when the clutch lever is pulled? I am trying to gather whether that is the problem or whether I have an internal problem. At the moment it moves out about 1-2mm.
othwerwise the bike runs just fine thankfully so im glad to have it álmost' back :?
 
unlucky mcmucker :shock:

i reckon something has gone wrong in the clutch area because the clutch engagement via the hydraulic has nothing to do with the clutch mechanism. once engaged the bike should be stuck moving in gear. so something has come apart.

it doen't have to be expensive. probably just an error and you'll see what you did wrong. all good experience!

i recommend a cheap syringe from a farm shop etc, engineers and so forth. back bleeding WORKS everytime and you have to remeber that the piston isn't a long thin rod, it is a 30mm wide disc that is 3mm long and so any opportunity to turn sideways or fall out will be gratefully received. do it in situ with the syringe and remember that it's mineral oil you need. some people use baby oil which is the same thing.

good luck fella!

regards

Taffy
 
baby oil?!

like johnson and johnsons baby oil?

Ive just been scouring th net looking for this soo called hard to obtain mineral oil. Used in citroen cars aparently. Nice to know I can pop into boots on the way home as a backup. I will do the syringe method like u say

I really hope you are wrong about the clutch though! I'll find out in 30 mins
I didnt rebuild the bike. It was doen by a ktm shop mech. So I have certin trust on the internals.

anyhow wish me luck... its bloddy sunny outside!!
 
Like Taffy said, the clutch has to be back bled.

Use either fork oil or common ATF as a clutch fluid. Works every bit as well, it's readily available and inexpensive.
 
bled the system tonight with a syringe i got from a vet and it didnt look like it was working but then after jumping it in 2nd and 5 mins riding and lever work it came good!

got some mineral oil from halfords like stuff used in citroens aparently

tomorrow is gonna be fun :D
 
mcmucker, good to hear you are up and running.
lets see a photo of the finished project. 8)
 
well not quite finished yet

still black plastics to go on but I will post a pre cosmetic change pic tomorrow when I get it out in the daylight somewhere on the coast
 
as promised here ya go
might take the akropovic off road sticker off though
 

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