advice on cam chain replacement

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Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
1,324
Location
australia
i am about to carry out my 1st cam chain replacement. i saw somewhere on this site that someone had trouble on this issue. i would like to tap into the wealth of knowledge on this site, is there anything i need to watch out for. i must get it right the 1st time . i have done cam chains before on some of the 40 bikes i have owned but this is the 1st husaberg i have owned .
 
straight forward,replace tensioner and tension blade with the new style and fit one of mr lineaweavers high tech cam chains
 
Hi Whosahberg ,

Fairly simple especialy where you have experience with others.
Rotate engine to TDC , remove Tensioner, cam cover and clutch cover .
I then mark gear positions with paint dots . May have to grind or break one link to get old chain out, I wrap a hand towel around engine leaving just access to the link I want to remove, this prevents anything entering engine. Check tensioner, guides,bearings,gaskets etc... replace as nesessary. Fish new timming chain around gears, I use a wire hook to do this. Install master link, clip type or press type I use the old style regina chain (which has the clip type link) and cut it to size. Reassemble , use good quality grey RTV silicone on cam cover . Adjust valves , re-assemble
body work and your ready to go.
 
thanks for your help husabergler again, did you happen to notice the damaged regina chain that was shown by mr lineaweaver ?
 
Actually, I haven't seen that picture I'm sure anything can
break though . I did however see the chain Dale is supplying
now when he first posted it, but I already had the Regina chain
in hand . Will probably use Lineaweaver chain in future as I am
also interested in his LX2 cam . For me the Regina chain was a
vast improvement over the IWS chains that were OEM in my
engine .
 
one bad tale isn't enough to talk about bad chains. so cut it out. you'll be fine with the regina...

i ask you to count the links please and report here. we need to know how few links you need. that way you can feed one chain on to the other as you turn the engine over.

that's how i did it anyway.

i think i did the whole thing in an hour,

regards

Taffy
 
taffy i am unsure of how many links the chain has at the moment . the bike is an 04 650e , and it is the oem chain . i pick up a new oem chain tomorrow it is the only chain i can get asap. i wll just have to replace it again soon , as i plan to order 1 of dales chains .
regards mal
 
well you heard what i said about the OEM chain. so i won't repeat it. your chain will come to long for the job. get a freind to turn the engine with a T-bar and socket at the ignition. it has to be a T-bar and not a ratchet understand.

take out the camchain tensioner and undo the split link. fit the new chain on the end using the split link and then slowly turn the engine until you can put the new all the way around.

i could save you a lot of hassle (or anyone else here if they could be arsed) by telling you how many links you need and you could get the 4" bench grinder going to shorten it.

why don't you turn the engine a few times and count the links and then cut the new one short enough afore you go!

feed the new one on (most definately a two-man job if it is to go without a hitch) and split link it all up sweet.

regards

Taffy
 
thanks for your expertise taffy, i hear you in regards to the oem chain, which has been in use for 12 months. so i figure that it is ok to use a new one for the next 3 months. [ i want to ride it asap as i am on holidays, and have had enough of waiting for parts ] and its just started to rain and rain = traction .
 
Early Regina chain was quite stout and far superior to the IWS.

Unfortunately Regina no longer manufactures their own O6B chain. Albeit similar in appearance the replacement "Regina" chain features split rollers and bushings.

2005 model Husaberg engines now use a solid roller / bushing DID chain.

I personally use a US manufactured O6B chain which I purchase in bulk.
Said chain is second to none.


Dale
 
Just a quick comment that may interest some of you; I bought the DID cam chain from the BOSS today and he showed me what was going on with the new cam chain guide on the tensioner side of the cylinder. He has the newer style in stock, which is much thicker front to back and should provide for better/longer tensioner wear. I'm going to give it a try anyway.

Taffy, I like your technique for dragging the chain around, attached to the original. Good idea. I'll count links as an exercise, but I've got the same bike, same year as you. BD (Brad in Portland)
 
DSC05252.sized.jpg

Solid Roller / Solid Bushing.
(Many thanks to my friend Takis for sending the picture.)

View a picture of Takis and his very professional operation located in Greece. : http://www.husaberg.com/

Dale
 
BD

the new tensioner, tensioner guide and DID chain are all mentioned in the DOC. we even have good pictures of it. because husey have only just gone to DID we have yet to have feedback about it but along with a softer tensioner, stronger guide and DIDs reputation: we're expecting great things!

trouble is it will likely be so good as to be some while before we get any reports :oops: :oops:

regards

Taffy
 
Camchain tensioner Upgrade to '05 Same now as KTM. Just a tensioned steel rod from '05-no knob on end.
This is from the DOC do you have a part number for this 05 Camchain tensioner and also the Tensioner guide?

Thanks
 
faktor said:
Camchain tensioner Upgrade to '05 Same now as KTM. Just a tensioned steel rod from '05-no knob on end.
This is from the DOC do you have a part number for this 05 Camchain tensioner and also the Tensioner guide?

Thanks

Truth be told the "new tensioner" is nothing new at all. Husaberg has used the same basic design from inception. The knob was simply added in 2001 to extend the range and removed in 2005 with the addition of an improved (ie thicker) guide.

Please keep in mind pre 2001 engines require a considerably longer chain. :)

Once considered clever to purchase a pre 2001 "Regina" chain cut to length in order to upgrade a post 2000 engine is no longer a viable option as previously outlined.

The DID indeed appears to be of good quality.

kind Regards,
Dale
 

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