Hi all, I am putting a light on my 02 470 fxe. I was checking the voltage from the bikes stator and found only 8.8vac, once hooked up to the regulator/rectifier, I had only 9vdc. When I increased the engine rpm, voltage would rise to 10.5vdc, but as rpm increased, the voltage began dropping again, ending back at 9vdc. I did hook the light up and it reflects the same reading as my electrical meter dim-brighter-dim. The light is a Trail tech 55watt halogen, one other pertinent piece of info, my bike no longer has the e-start or battery. Should my stator be putting out 12vac (yellow wire from stator, to blue wire from stator)? If not what should my voltage reading be? Or, do I need to replace the regulator/rectifier? I did some reading in the DOC and old posts, there was one reference to removing an orange wire from the ignition side, but I think this was for the new bikes and not the SEM stator.Any and all input would be appreciated, Bendberg
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Hi Bendberg,
The AC output from either yellow to blue should be around 20 to 30+ vac.
You need to feed the regulator not the regulator rectifier.
Seeing as you are not running a battery join both yellows together to feed the regulator, by doing this you will be able to have full power from the alternator like Viking quoted in the region of 140w.
In all the years working with the SEM stator I have not come accross one where the alternator side has gone down but there's a first for everything.
Regards
Sparks.
The AC output from either yellow to blue should be around 20 to 30+ vac.
You need to feed the regulator not the regulator rectifier.
Seeing as you are not running a battery join both yellows together to feed the regulator, by doing this you will be able to have full power from the alternator like Viking quoted in the region of 140w.
In all the years working with the SEM stator I have not come accross one where the alternator side has gone down but there's a first for everything.
Regards
Sparks.
Thank you Sparks, I was hoping you would be the one to reply 
One question, isn't the regulator/rectifier one and the same? As I read the wiring diagram, with the reg/rect. mounted on the bike (terminals facing the rear and the little hump facing up), I have the second term from the left to ground, the next terminal to the right is input from the stator, and the last terminal or the far right terminal to the light or DC voltage out. If this is right, I would tie both yellows to the AC volt input of the reg. As a precaution, I was going to double check all the grounds and make sure there wasn't an issue there also. Thanks again!
One question, isn't the regulator/rectifier one and the same? As I read the wiring diagram, with the reg/rect. mounted on the bike (terminals facing the rear and the little hump facing up), I have the second term from the left to ground, the next terminal to the right is input from the stator, and the last terminal or the far right terminal to the light or DC voltage out. If this is right, I would tie both yellows to the AC volt input of the reg. As a precaution, I was going to double check all the grounds and make sure there wasn't an issue there also. Thanks again!By default there is one regulator and one regulator/rectifier. The SEM stator has two yellows wires, one for the regulator, that's your AC, the other one for the regulator/rectifier, and that's your DC. You can join them together into a stronger regulator/rectifier, and get full DC. I don't know if it is strong enough for HID lighting but you should have enough power for regular lighting, GPS, fan and a blender.
As LeFrog says there is a regulator rectifier and a regulator because you have no battey you will only need the regulator for lighting.
For the regulator rectifier to work it needs a resistive load. Just wire in the regulator.
There is no difference in performance wether you feed the lights AC or DC.
Regards
Sparks.
For the regulator rectifier to work it needs a resistive load. Just wire in the regulator.
There is no difference in performance wether you feed the lights AC or DC.
Regards
Sparks.
Thanks guys, here is what I am finding. #1 I removed the ignition, and while I have been doing a good job of drying the ignition after washing and cleaning the spark generator. I have been neglecting the lighting coil, it had some surface rust After cleaning the rust off, I have a voltage of 21vac at idle and 30vac with some RPM, which is good. I tied both yellows together and had the same voltage, That is also good. #2 When I check voltage though the regulator I have 8.5vdc at idle and as RPM increases the regulator goes open, with no significant increase in voltage, not good. So a new regulator is in order, and that should resolve the issue. Thank you Sparks and Lefrog for your help, knowing the correct output voltage of the stator was a BIG help!
After cleaning the rust off, I have a voltage of 21vac at idle and 30vac with some RPM, which is good. I tied both yellows together and had the same voltage, That is also good. #2 When I check voltage though the regulator I have 8.5vdc at idle and as RPM increases the regulator goes open, with no significant increase in voltage, not good. So a new regulator is in order, and that should resolve the issue. Thank you Sparks and Lefrog for your help, knowing the correct output voltage of the stator was a BIG help!Similar threads
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