99 FE501 Stator & Wiring

Im trying to find wiring diagram for 99 FE501'
Had new stator & coil fitted but only ran short time and again will not start.
Any idea why this would happen?
Does anybody know the corect wiring from the stator to the coil? I have read here that incorrect conection could burn out the stator?
Any help would be great.
Cheers Dave

Hi Dave

Ok, it won't start, but do you have a spark or not ?

What coil and stator are you using ?

The wiring between coil and stator, is just matching colors, very easy.

:cheers:
ZAGA

Hi again,
Im getting no spark!
An Electrex World Stator ST5500L and a genuine Husaberg Coil was installed which would only start the bike by roll starting.
When it was dicovered that this was the wrong Stator it was replaced with an Electrex World Stator 5410L.
Could this original stator that was installed have damaged anything ie: the coil or regulator?

What are the Good Values that you guys talk about?
ie: Black/Red-3000 Black/Green-165

the electrex stator has been known to knock out the coils (ignition modules). these can't really be checked except by swopping yours for one that you know works for sure. I can repair them.

regards

Taffy

Hi
Yes the values that you have are correct for that stator.

Just follow Taff's advice and try to test it with another cdi if you can. There have been reports of problems like that, that's why I've asked you about your stator.
And check all conections

Best of luck
:cheers:
ZAGA

Hi again guys, thanks for the advice,
As the bike shop who did the work are being real a.....holes im trying to determine what has happened.
Ive been studying and i have amp meter & im ready to begin testing.
I have stator values but i can not find a 2nd coil to use & swap to test mine.
As a genuine replacement coil here is over $900 i need any other information on testing the coil.
What should the resistance be?
I will keep trying and testing as i need to be able to say to bike shop what is wrong.
I am still tring to find a wiring diagram.
Any more advice and tips are greatly appreciated.
Cheers Dave

you can't get numbers for the coil. just swopping them out for one that defo works is your only real chance and even then there are dozens of them out there as they were made for each cc and each year from 1999-2003.

I do a repair service on them and If a customer sends me one I check it. if it is good I charge for checking and if knackered I trust i get to repair it as I'm the only person that offers this service.

the figures for the stator are
green to black 165ohms
red to black 2,800 ohms

the red to black gives up.

regards

Taffy

Thanks Taffy,
I will check stator and wiring connections and get back to you.
So to check the coil i have to swap it with a coil from a 1999 fe501 exactly or is there others i can use.
Thanks Dave

Hi Dave

You can try any coil from any bike from 99 to 2003, the maping its different but they all do a spark.
Don't know, but if everything is right (wiring, stator, etc) there is only one thing to be wrong, the one that you can't check :?
Sorry, can't help you more

:cheers:
ZAGA

the following codes will actually fit yours and work great

250 293 01
250 251 01
250 224 02
250 225 02
250 226 01
250 216 02 (is up to '99 but will do)
250 217 01 (is up to '99 but will do)

all the above suit 501s and are more modern or as the last two.

regards

Taffy

Hi again,
Thanks for your help so far.
Have checked all connectons and checked the Stator.
I get readings of Red/black = 3000-3010
Green/black = 148-150 (This seems very close to +-10%)
If the stator is acceptable, being an Electrex World stator maybe it is the coil?
If the coil is finished because of the stator if i put a new/different coil in will it also be damaged?
What is the proper coil for this bike and what would you recommend? :?
Is it worth doing both again?
Cheers Dave

if you have an electrex stator and no zenor diode the Electrex stator will have knocked out the coil. end of.

we've said it a thousand times here. even the electrex people put the advert for the ZD next to the stator! so it is well known. doesn't help you - but it is well known!

if you have a SEM stator still you can p/ex that in with me. getting a coil? well I have a 501 coil here. normally because I have so few it would be 'send yours in for repair' but in your case it can be exchange. do you have leccy start?

If you can find a used coil for a 501 that would be ideal. don't throw the old one as I'm always looking to have more on the shelf.

regards

Taffy

OK, thanks Taffy,
so im back to the start. What sort of company sell you something they know doesnt work.
It does sound like i will have to replace the stator as well otherwise it will just knock out the new one.
What about the bike shop here who fitted the parts (never again) do they/ or me have any chance Electrex will own up and cover the cost.
A bit shattered as it took so long to save the money for the repairs.
Will contact them and bike shop and get back to you.

Have looked your web and am impressed. Wish id looked earlier.

Thanks Dave.

I believe they have a disclaimer in their as...well they used to! if they don't advertise it foe a specifically Husaberg you can't really blame them can you?

I mean EYES WIDE OPEN?

if you were told you could save a nickel and dime for a small chance of a coil failure beforehand: how many people here would avoid the electrex and save a penny or two?

the very first time we heard of electrex was when some one came onto UHE and wrote a super, duppa write up about electrex that was sweet and sickly that everyone laughed! that was this blokes one and only post! then on came another first-time-poster and said "super-duppa" as well!

Jason tracked both and turned out it was the same computer from the electrex office :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I've always held a soft spot for them since then! just between the cheeks of my arse! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

regards

Taffy

Cheers Taffy,
I first contacted Electrex by e-mail to find out what stator fits my 99FE501 when after repair by a bike shop my bike would only bump start. The bike shop had put in a 5500L and Zaga helped point out this was the wrong. Electrex told me by e-mail (which I still have) it was the 5410L (with nothing extra)
I e-mailed them again 2 days ago regarding this fault where this stator burns out the coils and have just received a answer where they claim this stator is designed for my bike and is tested before sold.
I can see I will get no joy from these pricks.
I have contacted my (ex) bike shop to get them to replace the coil as it only lasted 10 minutes and they want to do their own electrics test. Then I suppose they will argue with Husaberg about who has to replace it.
I can see this taking months or more to sort out.
I would prefer them just to either replace the coil immediatly ( but do not start so I can replace the stator) or give me my money back and i will get the coil myself as it took them 6 months to get the first one from Husaberg, but these guys are so uncooperative they will drag this out even more than the 22 months this has already taken.
Thanks for all your help and advice, I will keep reading and posting here.
Cheers Dave
W

you need to prove that there is a difference in output between the two stators if you're going to say the wrong Electrex stator is at fault. if either stator causes the damage then you should have been told about the zenor diode by Electrex.

anyway, good luck.

regards

Taffy

Hi

When I first came up with that simple solution of the zener, I contacted the guy from HPI (wich is the same as electrex) and he told me that was no need for it because the stator was like the original ???
After a few mails, I sent him my drawing and he told it was ok and the diode should be one with 280V and 3W (wich I never found), and if I bought the stator he would send me one diode to do it, but I never bought it and I never saw what was the right diode.
I also should say that I never tested that solution because I never had one of those stators.

:cheers:
ZAGA

zaga said:

the guy from HPI (wich is the same as electrex)

Click to expand...

Sorry Zaga,


This is Not true!

HPI is located in Belgium Horse Power Ignition website
Electrex in UK Electrex website

HPI designs CDI units and ignition kits and repairs OEM stators and generators.

Electrex makes generators and stators and copies of the HPI ignition kits.

They sell each other's products, that is all.


HPI claims to make more CDI units that are "more powerfull" as the OEM version
They do this by altering the ignition advance curve, be it digital or analogue controlled.
Or by using new electronic designs (MOSFETs,...), which drain less current just to operate, so there is more power left for the actual ignition.


Electrex claims to make generators and stators that are "more powerfull" as the OEM version.
They do by adding some windings or by changing the wire thickness of the stators.
In some cases you get a more powerfull charging system or a bigger spark.
But in other cases you get a damaged CDI or ignition coil because they can not deal with the "more powerfull" generator or stator.

About the SEM stators we can write a book.

I have witnessed a performance test of some combinations for the 2 stroke model


◄test series 1:
- 1 OEM CDI on OEM stator
- 2 HPI CDI on OEM stator
◄test series 2:
- 1 OEM CDI on electrex stator
- 2 HPI CDI on electrex stator

◄results of test series 1:
- no significant difference between the HPI and OEM CDI
- same start rpm - same stop rpm

◄results of test series 2:
- no significant difference between the HPI and OEM CDI
- same start rpm - same stop rpm

difference between test series 1 and 2:
►the start rpm on the electrex stator is higher: 150 rpm higher to be precise
this means you will have to kick harder or need a fully charched battery to start if you have an electric starter.
►with the electrex stator the spark dies at about 10500 rpm


conclusion
OEM CDI and HPI CDI have the same performance on the OEM and electrex stator.
the electrex stator is surely not OK!
the start rpm is higher and the spark dies at about 10500 rpm.
the spark dying does not have to be a problem since we do not make this many rpm


test performed on an electro motor 0-20000 rpm
same spark plug-spark plug cap was used
a OEM stator and CDI from a working bike: a swedish army bike, Husqvarna 2 stroke.
a brand new electrex stator ST5051L
and a brand new HPI CDI+coil CD5005

greetings,
HusaBE

Hi

Thanks for your information

From what I've understood, HPI says that their CDI it's better but in tests you can't really see it, but at least is the same.
Your tests shows that the electrex stator it's worst than the OEM, and you say that they can burn the OEM CDI.

Is my understanding correct ?

If possible could you clear this for me, will HPI CDI resist the electrex stator output ?

Also, as you know, there are different OEM CDI's for different engine CC's (not to mention years, but not important), why HPI doesn't make also different CDI's for the different engines ?? Is it so hard ?
Finally, how about all those CDI options ?? how does it work ?

I know I've asked this questions, but never got answers, now that you have a close relationship with HPI maybe you could try to clear this doubts.

Thanks for your effort

Cheers
ZAGA

Hello,

It will resist the electrex stator, but as mentioned, it is harder to start, and the spark dies sooner in comparison to the OEM stator.
But the same goes for the OEM CDI.

HPI has also made a CDI for the electrex stator, which will start sooner and will keep the spark at higher rpm.
But that one gave bad results on the OEM stator...

So in fact they should market 2 different CDI units
one for the OEM stator and one for the electrex stator.

But why should they have to change their product if the problem obviously lies in the electrex stator?

So how to market that?
HPI sells their CDI unit as OEM replacemnet, as they are.
Electrex sells their stator as OEM replacement, but these are not.

The whole problem would be solved if electrex makes a decent stator.
I think in their policy to make things better, they changed to much compared to the OEM stator.



About the different CDI unts;

you should make the difference between analogue and digital units

• the analogue units come in 2 stroke and in 4 stroke
  they have an variable advance curve (advance changes related to rpm)
  options available for analogue CDI units:
  • 2 curves

• the digital units have a curve that can be changed with their programming software, you can download for free from their site.
  So here you can program any curve you like.
  options available for digital CDI units:
  • 2 curves (selectable with button on handle bar
  • 6 curves - tps controlled (selcted by throttle position)
  • PJ exit - to turn on a valve or light, ... in the rpm regions you program
  • Shift Delay - quick shift system which will ****** or kill the spark for a short period, programmable with the software

Aobut their curves:

The analogue curves 2 and 4 stroke (CD5004 and CD5005) will run on the 2 and 4 stroke OEM stators

• 2-stroke has a pickup resistance of about 150 Ohm and ignition coil resistance of 1K2 Ohm

• 4-stroke has a pickup resistance of about 22 Ohm and ignition coil resistance of 1K2 Ohm

The curves inside the analogue units will run on virtually any engine.
The ignition advance is changeable by turning the stator a little bit.

The digital CDI goes on the stator that has a pickup resistance of 150 Ohm and an ignition coil resistance of 3K Ohm.
the curve inside is changeable, so you can make the best curve for your bike.


Maybe you can post the different ignition curves for the different OEM CDI units, I think that might help.

Best regards