2011 Husaberg FS570 Clutch Adjustment

topgun · Apr 6, 2017

Hi all, school me on adjusting the clutch on my new to me FS570.

I recently picked it up from a trustworthy source who I believe is fairly mechanically inclined. It's been too cold to ride until recently (Canada), so I wasn't able to really test ride it when I bought it. Anyway, after riding around a little bit today, I noticed when you come to a stop and are in first, the bike still pulls ever so slightly with the clutch lever pulled in.

Upon inspection, it looks like there was contact cement or something holding the clutch adjustment screw that has come free. See pictures.

Is my fix as easy as turning this screw one way or the other until I get a little free play before the friction zone, then reapplying some contact cement to keep the screw from moving?

Let me know what you think.

Rainerio · Apr 6, 2017

It shouldn't need any glue to hole it? And you right about turning it to get out the play. Tight as you comfortable with. You My have to replace the defective part or parts though on that lever.

topgun · Apr 6, 2017

Spoke to the source, it is "automotive goop", used as an alternative to lock wire for use on the track.

I suppose I should look into a new clutch lever for the bike. In the mean time, I'll apply another dab of goop to hold it still once I get it adjusted. Hopefully all will be fine.

Typically I'd like to release the clutch lever a half a cm or so before it starts to catch... all rider preference though?

jon andersson · Apr 7, 2017

While you are working on that you might as well have a look at the fluid level. Maybe it is time to change out the mineral oil, or maybe just top it up?

topgun · Apr 7, 2017

Rainerio said:
It shouldn't need any glue to hole it? And you right about turning it to get out the play. Tight as you comfortable with. You My have to replace the defective part or parts though on that lever.

I haven't had a chance to play with it yet. Just want to make sure you understand that I don't currently have much play at all in the lever before the bike begins rolling. When I have the lever all the way in it still pulls slightly. Is this still the way to adjust it? The clutch lever itself seems fine just that I want it to move some before the bike begins rolling.

Rainerio · Apr 7, 2017

If the play at lever is good and you still the problem. As Jon said check and bleed using mineral oil. If It's still a problem you may have inspect and/or replace clutch parts. On one of my bikes the slave leaks into the engine I have to keep filling it maybe once every 6 months.

SRG · Apr 7, 2017

Turn adjustment screw in (clockwise) to move levers bite point out (away from handlebar).

Check fluid (mineral oil = baby oil).

Bleed by pushing fluid up from slave to master w/ syringe.

If after/during use fluid level drops, it's likely the slave O ring. Inexpensive and easy to fix.

topgun · Apr 7, 2017

Thanks for the replies! Will let you guys know how it goes

FE350 · Apr 7, 2017

SRG said:
Turn adjustment screw in (clockwise) to move levers bite point out (away from handlebar).

Check fluid (mineral oil = baby oil).

Bleed by pushing fluid up from slave to master w/ syringe.

If after/during use fluid level drops, it's likely the slave O ring. Inexpensive and easy to fix.

FWIW

Remember that Baby oil has less viscosity than OE application specific mineral oils. It works ok by those who use if you don't mind the nice smelly fragrance

I have never used Baby oil, but I would think it would give a softer feel and a fresher scent

topgun · Apr 9, 2017

Update: checked the clutch fluid level today and it was right where it should be. Fresh oil change, then I finally got out for the first decent ride of the year. The bike is ridiculous. First gear effectively useless, could easily loop it in second gear, then it calms down a bit in third and fourth and cruises along nicely.

For what it's worth, clutch dragging wasn't noticeable once the bike got warmed up.

I think I've found a new favorite. It's a completely different beast than my old KTM 625 SMC

Edit: it is currently up 6 teeth on the rear sprocket from stock, and I think I'll leave it this way.

jon andersson · Apr 10, 2017

I changed out the front sprocket to a 15T. Makes the first gear more useful and I dont have to change gears all the time. I do have a 52 on the wheel so still low gearing.
An upside with big sprockets is less wear on the chain, but my choice is mainly based on gnarly single tracks with occasional high speed sprints.

Markey · Apr 23, 2017

I have similar symptoms with my 2009 fe 570. Added mineral oil, bled the clutch, which seems to have fixed not being able to find neutral but the clutch still not fully disengaging the rear wheel in 1st. I assume clutch plates sticking? Should I buy just plates, or do I need a new basket? OEM or aftermarket? Has anyone rebuilt their clutch and if so how difficult is it?

TomTom · Apr 23, 2017

Unless you pushed the oil up from the slave you may want to try that, else you cant get all the air out. With oem clutch it completely disengages even at cold start, while my ktm always needs a firm step on the gear lever and brakes on when cold, not the same clutch on them.

Markey · Apr 24, 2017

Good call I guess I should be extra sure there is no air in the line before I drop $$$ on a new clutch. Thanks for the tip...now I just need to figure out the syringe trick. Do you hook is up to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder?

TomTom · Apr 24, 2017

Yep! Very straight forward it is, just push until desired level in the reservoir and youre done. You may want a buddy checking the level or it will get a bit messy

2011 Husaberg FS570 Clutch Adjustment

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