2010 FE 570 hard starting cold

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1

1Trak Mind

Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
50
Location
va.usa
I have had a new fuel pump @ 100 miles & the remap both under warranty. The problem now is its real hard to start cold. I beleive there is not enough cold start enrichment. Anybody able to shed some light on this. Lomg crank time, pops, then finally starrts. Cold start knob pulled out has no effect. Thanks
 
How long is long? Mine usually needs to be cranked for good 3-4 seconds when dead cold. Sometimes it pops a little and starts after that. Warmed motor starts right away. Could the battery be reason for this or my aggressive map on the map switch?

My friend -10 570 starts pretty much right away even in dead cold condinition. But his bike is stock with just akra pipe.
 
Might want to check the idle adjustment. Had a friend who had been inadvertently turning the idle adjustment when he was pulling the "choke" out. That button is also you idle adjustment. If it gets far enough out of whack, the bike is really hard to start cold.
 
1Trak Mind said:
I have had a new fuel pump @ 100 miles & the remap both under warranty. The problem now is its real hard to start cold. I beleive there is not enough cold start enrichment. Anybody able to shed some light on this. Lomg crank time, pops, then finally starrts. Cold start knob pulled out has no effect. Thanks
Click to expand...

Pretty much standard for mine. Mine got better over time but what I do now is just punch the button to prime the pump then barely crack the throttle and try to start it. Usually works. Here at sea level in the heat of Florida the cold start button has no effect. I recently rode in Colorado at 8-12k and 40 degree temps and the cold start buttom actually worked in that scenario.
 
Heres the drill to get it started cold...punch starter once to get pump primed. Then crank crank crank stop. Crank crank crank stop. Crank crank crank stop. Crank crank crank sputter. Crank crank crank sputter some more. Crank crank crank FIRE. That wasnt so bad until the other day it wouldnt reastart after sitting for half an hour. Finally started after almost an hour...man, I was sweating bullets. I was in the middle of Nowhere by myself w no possibility of pushing it out to the road & no access roads in. Spoke to dealer , hes talking to Husaberg about another pump.They really are trying to help.Went out w a freind yesterday & it was pretty much ok all day except for a couple of times it didnt refire right away w varying lengths of sitting in between. the battery is always fully charged and cranks fast. Although the battery bolts need to be tightened every few hours. Runs like a monster any other time. Thanks for any ideas.
 
1Trak,

So, did you try Crazy Ted's suggestion about altering the idle speed? If you have the idle speed set too high it will be hard to start cold. Try setting the idle speed lower and let us know if that helps on cold start.

I'm also wondering at this point about the health of your injector. Typically when the injector starts to go bad it will drip some fuel after the bike has been running, causing it basically to be flooded after sitting for a bit when hot.

That's what my 09 started doing after about 100 hours. I replaced the injector at 130 hours, and now it starts hot if you barely touch the button.

Sounds like your dealer is doing you right, so here are a couple of suggestions.

Have the dealer check the fuel pressure. They have an in line plug in fuel pressure gauge, and this is part of the regular maintenance to check the health of the in line/in tank fuel filter, as well as the disposition of the fuel pressure regulator.

See if your dealer will throw in a new injector for you to see if this cures your problem.

I have a question...............What type of fuel, and octane rating are you running?

Dale
 
Yes, I tried a lower idle speed all that did was cause stalling on big log hops. Now i know why fact. spec. for idle is 1700 - 1800 RPM. I am using Sunoco 93 w 10 % ethanol. I will try to get them to put in a new injecter ,I think they did clean it last time. It had the white crap in it. Will post what happens.
 
Husaberg has authorized another fuel pump for me. We will clean the injecter as well. Hopefully this will be the end of this. At least they are being a stand up company. Will post results.
 
When I bought my 2011 570 I was told it might be harder to start when cold but was told to pull the "choke"...and it would start...only ridden twice in 2 weeks, both times it started no problem.
 
hi guys.just joining in on your thread.i have a 7 week old 2012 fe 570 with acro slip on and 3 pos map switch.brand new,had my brother pick up the bike for me and has been hard to start cold since i got it off the trailer.live on the queensland border so extreme low temps are not a prob.i have found that it is not injecting from dead cold start,it cranks for about 6 to 8 secs and backfires,then cranks couple more and backfires again,then starts.never starts before backfire.have tried all the suggestions,like cold start button out (makes cranking time longer and not even backfire)checking and adjusting idle screw (no real difference)hitting start button and waiting for pump to prime(primes up every time)tried air filter out or in (no diff).what i did find after first air filter clean and re oil,the thing started before i took my finger off the starter button.this tells me it is too lean on cold start.i put a piece of paper down the throttle body and cranked it in the throttle off position 3to 4 times and pulled the paper out,BONE DRY.IT DOES NOT GET FUEL UNTIL IT BACKFIRES.have taken it back to the shop and they say cant falt it,strange it happens every time for me.finaly got jack of all this and filmed every start,took it back to shop and left it there.see what they come up with.i'm thinking map switch,line pressure or injector,but then there's also comp,crank angle sensor,start awitch,is there something i have missed?
 
Mine is having the camshaft replaced under warranty as we speak. Mine is hard to start cold or hot to the point where it wouldn't start at all. The autodecomp on the camshaft seems to be plaguing some but not others.
 
My -11 570 was back in time (0-30h motor time) a pretty hard starter too. Easily took 5secs or more from dead cold start to get it running. Backfired and sputtered, was kinda embarrassing lol.

Then I messed with the idle speed screw. Increased the idle and that helped a bit. Changed both fuel filters inside the tank at 50h and that "maybe" gave it a extra second or so quicker starting and a bit snappier throttle + no low speed stalling anymore. Now few days ago I messed with my User Setting Tool and gave the bike a good ~10% more fuel at the idle closed throttle range. Now it starts in a flash of light and usually cranks 2 or 3 times only, first crank every time when motor is running correct temps.

It idles alot smoother now and the exhaust pulse is more stronger, I can feel it it hitting way harder from distance when I'm standing behind. Before it was only faint puff puff now it slaps pretty hard, like a 450 mx bike.
 
New 2011 FE 570 S. After a month had the dealership remap ignition to European to enrichen the fuel mixture. Bike would atart after 6-8 seconds of sputtering and backfiring. Called the dealer to listen to the problem and the engine fired up right away. Made a liar out of me. Dealer said to turn idle up a couple of clicks. The next day the same 6+ second backfire before it lights up. Thoughts: fuel pump, ignition mapping, injector, etc. Live near sea level in south LA. Thanks for the feedback as warranty is good for a few more months.
 
I have a 2011 FE570S, and it too was difficult to start.

Part of the problem is the factory muffler. That thing is a study in restrictiveness. You may not have the legal option in Kalifornia to repace it with an aftermarket unit, but you can make some internal modifications that will be of some help. There's a thread here on the subject.

Another problem is the rediculous smog gear on the bike. There's an electrically controlled evaporative canister under the left rear fender, and a valve on the right side of the cylinder head with associated plumbing all the way back to the canister. If you want your motorcycle to run like the engine designers intended, that junk has got to go. (But you'll be illegal in California.)

Your 2010 should be completely broken in by now, but I discovered that my bike was harder to start when new and became progressively (and slightly) easier to start as it broke in.
 
Auto decomp is suspect - battery and starter will never spin the engine over unless the auto decomp is operating correctly. Seems to affect quite a few of them. Search this site you will find it.
 

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